Korean food tours, especially Seoul food tours, daunt travelers with all the choices. There is no one-size-fits-all experience. As I said on a previous post, TripAdvisor/Viator tours and others like them tend to be reposts of other companies’ tours with 15-30% sucked out for commissions.
Do the right thing. Book directly.
Top 9 Korean Food Tours
This is a list, NOT A RANKING. I’ve compiled it based on the most popular rankings and web searches. I know a lot of these operators personally, and they’re good people. We each have a different style. Find one that fits you.
1. ZenKimchi Experiences
I’ll just go ahead and post ours first to get it out of the way. ZenKimchi Experiences specialize in immersive–experiences. We avoid the touristy areas. When we design tours, our guides want to show off why we love this place. What is it that keeps us here?
I created the tours out of frustration that many travelers, especially solo travelers, were having bad food experiences in Seoul. A lot of food programs, especially government funded programs, were run by Koreans who held outdated shallow stereotypes of foreigners. They dumbed everything down and tried to push through foods that everyday Koreans don’t eat, like Royal Court Cuisine.
The big bus tour companies packed their starving tourists into restaurants that only made business from those tours. They served food that was close to prison fare. My wife used to be a tour guide, and she told me horror stories of these companies’ tactics. It was all about extracting more money from tourists rather than showing them a good time. Unfortunately, they dominate the airport kiosks and tour organization websites.
ZenKimchi creates curated experiences that are unlike any other. We want our guests to feel like they’re Korean for the night. We run a profit-sharing business model. This means that our guides own their tours. They aren’t college kids trying to make extra cash. They’re passionate professionals who know where to go.
Websites:ZenKimchi.com, KoreaFoodTours.com Tour Types: Walking Booking System: Automated instant online booking for Credit Card & PayPal. Bank Transfer & Cash need to contact through booking form. Private Tours: Yes Solo Travelers: Yes, for most tours Groups: Up to 20. Group discounts. Family Friendly: Yes, for most tours Hotel Pick-up: No Area: Seoul only
O’ngo is the granddaddy of food tour companies. They’re not just a tour company. They publish books, do research, and make video productions. The founder, Gina, is well respected in the Korean food community. They’re the most popular food tour company and cooking class entity. They have beginner to professional level cooking classes, and they even have special classes for company team building. I just saw they have a special North Korean cuisine class, which I think is the first of its kind. They conduct food tours in Seoul, Busan, Jeonju, and Jeju. They even do multi-day package tours.
Website:ongofood.com Tour Types: Walking, cooking classes, mutli-day packages Booking System: Form. They get back to you. Private Tours: Yes Solo Travelers: Tours cancelled if minimum booking isn’t met Family Friendly: Yes, for most tours Hotel Pick-up: Private tours Area: Seoul, Busan, Jeonju, Jeju
Veronica Kang is a powerhouse. She knows Korean food. She has great stories. When I talk to people who have taken her tours, they gush with love. She creates one-of-a-kind experiences.
Gastro Tour specializes in less touristy fare–Korean food for the already initiated. Advanced level stuff. I’m looking for a chance to take her “Tuscany of Korea” tour. It looks so good! The brewmaster tour is a good crash course in Korean alcohol. It’s life changing.
Website:gastrotourseoul.com Tour Types: Walking, day trips Booking System: Form Private Tours: Yes Solo Travelers: Tours cancelled if minimum booking isn’t met Groups: Can offer group discounts Family Friendly: Yes, for most tours Hotel Pick-up: Can arrange for a fee Area: Seoul, Taean Peninsula
Cooking classes you can find anywhere. What about home brewing classes?
“Sool” is the Korean word for liquor. The Sool Company specializes in teaching you about Korean alcohol traditions from tasting to making. Chinese records from 3,000 years ago stated that the people on the Korean peninsula were the best at making alcohol. The Sool Company was started by expat home brewing geeks obsessed with Korea’s rich drinking culture. They’ve studied under masters, and they have figured a way to distill that knowledge (see what I did there) into easy-to-learn classes. They even have a free online course.
If home brewing isn’t your cup of soju, then take one of their masterful Korean alcohol tasting tours.
Website: thesoolcompany.com Tour Types: Home brewing classes, walking tours Booking System: Online Private Tours: Solo Travelers: Classes need a minimum of 2 to run. Classes under 4 will get a W30,000 extra surcharge. Groups: Classes max out at 10 Family Friendly: Not if you want your kids to learn how to home brew Hotel Pick-up: No Area: Seoul
One Day Korea created an innovative tour recommendation system called “tumakr.” It helps you design your itinerary according to your desires. Similar to ZenKimchi, their guides create their tours. One Day Korea carries a lot of tours in different categories, one of them being food. The types of tours include street food, markets, kimchi making, Noryangjin Fish Market, and even hiking. This is a solution for you if you want to set up all your different tours under one provider.
Website: onedaykorea.com Tour Types: Walking Booking System: Online Private Tours: Yes Solo Travelers: No Family Friendly: Most tours are family friendly Hotel Pick-up: No Area: Seoul, Busan, Andong, Gyeongju, Jeju
I recently took a tour and class at OME Cooking Lab, and I just had to include them on this list. Their class is well done. You start out with a tour of the traditional medicine market and then one of the largest ingredients markets in Seoul. They explain a lot about Korean ingredients, and you get to sample them.
The cooking class is what truly impressed. They run a tight operation, and they’re personable. We made EIGHT DISHES. I’m a Korean cooking veteran, but even I learned a few new things.
Website: 5-tastes.com Tour Types: Cooking classes, walking Booking System: Online with deposit through PayPal Private Classes: Yes Solo Travelers: Yes Groups: Over 10 need special accommodation Family Friendly: Yes. Hotel Pick-up: No Area: Seoul
7. Absolute: Seoul Pub Crawl & International Party
Seoul is truly the city that never sleeps. It is one all-day all-night party. If you’re here to party then party with these folks. They’re the “ORIGINAL and LONGEST operating pub crawl of Seoul and one of the longest running in whole Asia.”
This isn’t a literal food tour. It’s all drinking, so make sure to get something in your stomach beforehand. I went on this one recently with one of my guests, and we had a good time. It’s a good way to meet people.
Website: absolutepubcrawl.com Tour Types: Walking Booking System: Online + PayPal Private Tours: No Solo Travelers: Yes Family Friendly: Heck no! Hotel Pick-up: No Area: Seoul
Food & Culture Academy has been around longer than anyone here. They have been instrumental on almost every Korean drama that revolves around food. I’ve worked with them multiple times, and I’ve been impressed at how thorough their knowledge is, along with their relaxed teaching style. If you want to learn a certain dish, this is the place to learn it. You can make your own tailored cooking class. Professional chefs go there all the time to learn new techniques. There are vegetarian classes, though they’re more on the pescatarian side. They even have classes for kids.
Website: koreanrecipe.co.kr Tour Types: Cooking classes, walking Booking System: Form Private Classes: Yes Solo Travelers: Yes, for a little extra Groups: Group discounts Family Friendly: Yes. Children’s discount on some products. Hotel Pick-up: No Area: Seoul
McDonald’s Korea discontinued the Filet-O-Fish in 2008. Today, April 1st, 2021, it is back. I try my first one in maybe 15 years. Will it live up to expectations? And what of the Double Filet-O-Fish?
I rented “Minari” last week and watched it a couple of times. I’m still thinking about it. I love books and films that linger and don’t vanish like cotton candy. The film focuses on a Korean-American family settling in the American south in the 1980s. I grew up in that region, and I have been an immigrant in Korea for almost two decades. I saw a lot in that film, and I need to punch it out on the keyboard. So bear with me.
Many have commented that they were tense, thinking that a film of immigrants in the “South” would reach for that trope of the racist confrontations between the protagonists and the locals. Yet we didn’t get that. Rather than portraying rural Arakansans as weirdo racists, it just portrayed them as weirdos.
There were some micro-agressions. The church lunch crammed a bunch of them. From the white boy staring at David and asking why is face was flat as a conversation opener to the girl going “ching ching chong” to try to guess a word in Korean to the church ladies telling Monica she was “so cute.” It was ignorance that meant well. They weren’t mean spirited. They were noting the Kim family’s otherness to make connections.
And I cringed.
Director Lee Isaac Chung has said that the film was a tribute to his friends in Arkansas. You could tell that even though the Americans were treated as oddballs, it was done with affection. But I did like seeing Americans through Korean eyes. I think American viewers should get more opportunities to see how foreign they come across.
We’ve come a long way from the “I love America! What a country!” immigrant/foreigner tropes portrayed in “Coming to America,” “Perfect Strangers,” and the entire oeuvre of Yakov Smirnoff. It’s refreshing to see that people are in America for a better life, but they don’t fall for the illusion that the streets are paved with gold. It seemed for the Kims that they were leaving to get away rather than coming to get something.
This was during the mass migrations of Koreans to the U.S. in the ’80s. Right-wing Dictator Chun Doo-hwan had just replaced assassinated right-wing dictator Park Chung-hee. It was a turning point in the economy, in politics, and in social structures themselves.
Maybe it’s self-absorption, but I found a lot of myself and my immigrant experience in this film. I have no illusions that I’ve generally had the gentler white collar version, but the themes rhymed. I came to Korea as both a fan of the culture and out of financial necessity at the time.
Like Jacob, I chased a dream that I thought would be the future. For him, he wanted to grow Korean vegetables in anticipation that the large Korean migration would create demand for Korean produce. I myself produced this blog, podcasts, and tours in anticipation that Korean food was about to hit the big time. And I was making blogs and podcasts back before either of those media exploded in popularity.
Like Jacob, I put my wife through hell as I chased the dream she didn’t understand. She had no interest in my work and only reluctantly went along with my windmill chases. Like Monica, she’d push me to go return to my fallback job and to give up on my dreams. For Jacob at that time, it was chicken sexing. For university graduates in South Korea, it’s ESL teaching. In fact, it’s extremely hard to completely get out of the ESL teaching gig. Even those who own bars or do voice acting for a living still teach some English. You don’t find many foreigners in Korea owning convenience stores. They aren’t running large supermarket chains like Koreans are in Atlanta and other American cities. The best foreigners in Korea can do is hustle–if they don’t want to fall back on ESL teaching. And that gig generally doesn’t make more than $36,000/year.
Just pointing out that Jacob’s desire to get out of chicken sexing and to become successful doing his own thing reminded me of my desire to get out of ESL–to become one of the few English speaking foreigners to do something different.
I connected when Jacob looked at that smokestack at the hatchery, where they toss the male chicks. I’ve been reminded by society that I’m useless if I can’t succeed.
And I’ve been burned while chasing my dream. My restaurant ventures in 2016 crashed, the stress of which brought on a seizure which cracked my vertebra. Like the storeowner in Dallas, I was cheated by people I’d made deals with and worked very hard for.
Also, like Jacob, I started out looking down at local customs. I’d made friends with Koreans that other Koreans would have suggested were not good–maybe similar to how Jacob made friends with Paul, who was a pariah in the community. At the beginning, he thought the locals were ignorant hicks for using divining rods to find water. Then his character grew to accept even that odd local custom in the end.
I’ve done the same. “Why would you open all the windows in the middle of winter?”
But now I have done just that. I open the windows to air out our house, even in winter. I back into parking spaces. I refuse twice before accepting a gift the third time (like Monica does when her mother gives her money). I’ve been rightly called out for condescending towards local customs and beliefs. These days, I don’t think I’ve totally converted and been baptized in all Korean customs, but I find more comfort in them.
I see Anne and David in my child Jian. She mostly speaks Korean in the household while I mostly speak English, though we both switch up. In the film, David wears cowboy boots. Jian dances K-Pop. They both relate more to the countries they were born into, and they both get a bit of the outsider treatment. Jian hasn’t as much, thankfully. She did get it more when she was a baby. But we were conscious that she may be singled out for her–genetic diversity–so we prepared her for years to fit in and to stand up for herself.
Minari is the plant that symbolizes Chung’s version of the Korean immigrant experience. It’s hearty and grows well wherever it’s planted. This is indicated later when the Oklahoma City storeowner says that Korean communities are growing in Oklahoma and other locations closer to Jacob’s farm than way off in Dallas, where that untrustworthy store was. Koreans are placing more roots around the U.S.
Like Monica, my wife has had conversations with me about whether I cared more about my dreams or about my family. In fact, she literally said, “That’s you and me,” when they were having that hard conversation at the end.
But I’m American. I think in Korea, Americans aren’t minari. We’re tumbleweeds. Most hardly last two years in Korea. Because of this, we don’t form much of a supportive community. The networks to help newcomers are threadbare. There aren’t support centers, like churches. Though I did get a laugh when the Korean worker said that many Koreans fled to Arkansas to get away from “Korean church.” There was a lot of subtext in that.
My daughter visited her grandparents, aunts, uncles, and cousins in Alabama last year. She loved it. Though my family lives in an area that doesn’t fit the podunk Alabama hicktown stereotype. It’s a pretty cool waterfront town. BUT–in my previous life I was married into a farming family in the Alabama countryside, and I witnessed the culture portrayed in “Minari’s” rural Arkansas. I connected with that side as well.
The extreme cult-like forms of religion practiced there, honestly, was not much different to how much religion is practiced in South Korea. The extreme fundamentalism, the xenophobia mixed with warm generosity, the commitment to tradition for the sake of tradition–I’ve noted so many similarities between Alabama and Korea over the years.
Sorry.
I’m being really personal and confessional.
“Minari” hit me in an unexpected place. Last year, I wrote about “Parasite,” and it reminded me again of how much I love Seoul, down to the gritty parts. “Minari” reminds me of my life in Korea. It’s been tough to plant roots here. I’m the consummate outsider. I’m well aware that I’m more privileged than others–and I still can’t get a Korean credit card or qualify for a housing loan.
For the past year, I’ve been considering becoming a naturalized Korean citizen. My largest obstacle is my constant struggle with the Korean language Balrog. Lee Isaac Chung’s film has helped re-energize me to work towards becoming a true American immigrant in Korea.
There’s something I’d say for Korea that I wouldn’t say for America–there are some freakin’ good restaurant franchises that I’d recommend even over independent restaurants. Their quality is consistently good. These Korean restaurant franchises would also be great brands to export.
I’m leaving out the fried chicken and non-Korean-food franchises as they require separate posts. There are many other franchises out there, and some are good. But they’re either not great (Bon Juk, Baekje Samgyetang), or they are inconsistent (Andong Jjimdalk, Omogari Kimchi Jjigae).
Maetdollo-man 맷돌로만
Even though the name sounds like a superhero, it means something like, “Only from the Millstone.”
This is my new favorite franchise, and they’re expanding rapidly. They specialize in tofu. Housemade tofu. They make it out front behind the window for everyone to see. Korean tofu converts people who hate tofu. It has a rough masculine quality.
Get their Dubu Bossam set, which includes some tender pork belly with tofu and wraps. Also get their Dubu Jeon, which is a crunchy pancake made solely out of tofu. Pure protein.
I can’t find a website for them, and it looks like each one of their storefronts is slightly different. Just copy and paste 맷돌로만 on Google and Naver.
Yeah, it’s just bossam. But it is consistently good. We tend to get it delivered, but I think it’s best in the restaurant itself. The banchan is always diverse and tasty, including that sweet, fruity fresh kimchi. They have lunch specials that will fill you up.
This Korean restaurant chain has been getting quite popular with Koreans and expats. They are part of this 1970s nostalgic trend. Look at the lattice-work on the doors and the general feel of the place. Some locations even have marshaling anthems blaring outside, harkening back to, um, simpler times?
I’ve been a fan of their hangjeongsal and geopdaegi (pork skin), but the thing to order (thanks, Lisa Kelley) is the Yeoltan Bulgogi 열탄불고기. It’s shaved pork smothered in spicy sauce. Toss that on the grill and make sure you have your favorite bev handy.
This is the star franchise of celebrity chef Paik Jong-won. This guy is notorious for sticking his face on EVERYTHING. The guy has franchises for most any product, including coffee. Most of his franchises suck, but this is the one good one.
The legend of Jaws goes like this. A guy quit his job and wanted to start a tteokbokki hut. Yet he didn’t know the first thing about making it. He spent months in the kitchen perfecting his recipe. The result is a spicy and addictive tteokbokki. But Jaws doesn’t stop there. They also serve a meaty soondae sausage, hearty odeng fish cakes, and super light and crispy twigim (tempura). I like mixing it all together with the thick tteokbokki sauce.
When I was in Chuncheon, the DalkGalbi capital of the world, I noticed that there were restaurants serving a sutbul (charcoal-grilled) version. Soon after, this Orai opened in my town of Anyang.
This is great stuff! Dark meat chicken marinated in a sweet spicy sauce and thrown on the charcoal grill in front of you. Yes, you don’t get the usual fried rice at the end, but by then you’re on your third order. It’s reasonably priced as well. One order will feed two people–or one Joe. I’ve had this at another location in Seoul, and it is just as good there.
Nolboo is hard to peg. They’re a brand that has many different types of Korean restaurants. Some do Budae Jjigae, some do Clay Pot Duck, some do Galbi Jjim. In most cases, they serve high quality versions of whatever dish they specialize in. The Clay Pot Duck, Yuhwang Ori 유황오리, is the closest you get to Thanksgiving dinner in a Korean restaurant. The duck is stuffed with rice, various seeds, fruits, and Chinese medicinal ingredients. It’s then baked in a clay pot for a few hours. The result is this steamy tender meat with this aromatic stuffing. Bring a bottle of pinot noir for this one.
The Budae Jjigae restaurants do the classic “army base stew” with the classic spam and hot dogs. But they also add little bonuses like pepperoni. Their Galbi Jjim restaurants serve taste-bud-obliterating spicy ribs that I can’t get enough of.
They’re not really a restaurant. They’re a tea purveyor. They have cafes in Insa-dong and around town. They open booths in high end department stores. O’Sulloc is a Jeju-based green tea producer that has shown how world class Korean tea can be. They’re not cheap, but unlike many Korean companies that sell products at premium prices, O’Sulloc’s teas are truly premium. Their basic green tea, which they roast and brew for free samples in Insa-dong, packs so much of a punch that you won’t return to the sawdust in the teabags. The complexity makes it so interesting. They don’t just do green tea. O’Sulloc carries a large swath of flavored and themed teas. They even have some super posh black box teas. Most of them would make perfect gifts.
Based in Jeonju, home of the pinnacle of bibimbaps, Gogung brings this famous dish in its most Platonic ideal. When you see gorgeous colorful photos of bibimbap, this is the type they serve. The signature Jeonju bibimbap comes in a brass bowl and is chock full of little goodies, complete with the raw egg yolk that binds it together after mixing. You usually find branches in department stores. If you can’t make it to Jeonju, try it here.
Bukchon Mandu makes their dumplings fresh. You can see them wrapping them in the open window where people pick them up to eat on the street or take home. Their Manduguk (mandu soup) warms you up and fills you up for the afternoon. Make sure to get some of those Sae-oo Mandu (Shrimp Mandu, pictured above). Likely, you’ll get more.
Not-so-great Korean Restaurant Franchises
And these either suck the soul out of Korean food or are just poorly executed.
Oh, the things that continue to be wrong with this concept! I had already told you the story on how CJ approached me and a few others to help organize market testing with westerners for a bibimbap concept they were planning to take overseas. The original restaurant was Cafe Sobahn, which was pretty cool. The sprouts they grew hydroponically in the shop. You could see them. After trying and rating different dishes, they ended the testing by saying, “We’re thinking of going with the name Bibigo. What do you think of that name?”
The group unanimously said it was a horrible name. The CJ manager took the results to his superiors. The superiors looked at it and tossed the results away, along with Cafe Sobahn itself. They didn’t fit with what they planned.
A disaster
The result has been one of many money pits for the CJ conglomerate. The only reason the Bibigo branches in the U.S. and even in Seoul have stayed afloat is that CJ’s deep pockets are patching the holes. They use the franchise to boast to the Korean public that they’re spreading Korean cuisine. But few have asked them whatever happened to their prediction to have many more restaurants open than they have now.
It’s a money suck. The exec in charge of this has famously compared herself to Steve Jobs, which is her excuse for not paying attention to market research. She doesn’t realize that Steve Jobs could get away with it because–he was Steve jobs. Every move they have done has been crass and out of touch with the market. But hey! They had Psy!
(What’s funny is that Psy was the face for Nolboo before he came out with Gangnam Style.)
Since I first posted about this, they had a disaster of a restaurant in London, and the chain is dying out. But now they’re known for their frozen mandu.
Korea’s answer to TGI McChilibee’s. They try to do the chain casual dining fern bar concept a la Outback. This could have worked. Unfortunately, like so many prepped up Korean endeavors, they somehow surgically removed all the fun, flavor, and excitement of Korean BBQ while upping the price, pairing it with Yellow Tail Merlot.
Oh, I’m going to get my ass chewed for this one. But I seriously don’t see what the hype is about this beyond being an institution. It’s like how I don’t get The Varsity in Atlanta. Everyone says you have to go there, but unless you’re sentimental for it, it is disappointing.
I’ll say this, the broth in the Kalguksu is fine. But that’s about it. The meat is grisly and low quality. The dumplings are just the same as you’d get anywhere else. And that kimchi–it’s god awful! It’s like they put no jeotgal in it and just doused it in raw garlic and gochugaru. You only eat the kimchi because there’s no other option. There are many much better kalguksu joints in Korea, like Hwangsaengga Kalguksu in Bukchon.
If you’re easily impressed by gimmicks, this is your place. Their fire beef sushi isn’t bad. But the namesake noodles are dull, dull, dull. It should be a blinking warning when a restaurant imprints their logo on the egg in your bowl.
Shinpo Uri Mandu 신포 우리 만두
Just ralph on my plate and serve it with rice, why don’t ya!
They supposedly specialize in mandu. It’s in their freakin’ name! The frozen mandu given out as free samples at E-Mart are better.
Grainy. Mealy. Tasteless.
So you know it’s only downhill when you try their non-mandu items.
What great (or bad) Korean food franchises am I leaving out? Say so in the comments.
If you have ever been to South Korea, you’ve most likely tried traditional pork belly. The meat is tender and not too spicy, and it’s a perfect part of a feast for guests or family gatherings.
With this recipe, you can bring all of the beautiful Korean pork belly flavors to your kitchen!
This recipe uses a cast-iron Dutch oven so that you can brown your meat and put it in the oven using only one dish.
How to steam rice
Wash 1 cup of rice till the water runs clear. Drain and set to one side.
Bring 2 cups of water to boil. Add a healthy pinch of salt, then the rice.
Reduce the heat, cover the pan, and let the rice simmer for 15 minutes. Check and see if all the water has evaporated: if it has, the rice is done. If it hasn’t, let it simmer for a few more minutes till done.
Once done, remove from heat and serve immediately.
FAQs
What is Korean soybean paste (doenjang)?
Korean soybean paste is made with fermented soybeans and brine. It is sometimes used as a relish and is a byproduct of soy sauce manufacturing.
You can find this paste in your local Asian grocery, or on Amazon.
What is Korean chili paste (gochujang)?
Korean chili paste is a spicy and slightly sweet red chili paste made from red chili pepper flakes, sticky rice (also known as glutinous rice), fermented soybeans, and salt.
As with Korean soybean paste, you can find Korean chili paste in Asian grocery stores or on Amazon.
You can find out more about common ingredients in Korean cuisine here.
Anything else I can use instead of pork belly?
You could try this recipe with beef short ribs, pork shoulder (as long as you cut the pork shoulder into smaller pieces first), or country-style pork ribs.
What else can I serve with pork belly?
Some tasty suggestions are:
Walnut, chicory and apple salad
Sautéed veggies, such as Chinese broccoli in garlic sauce
Mashed potatoes with a hint of mustard
Enjoy your pork belly recipe!
Contributor – Barbara Fernandez
“Barbara Fernandez is a freelance health and lifestyle writer and voiceover artist. She writes about all aspects of health and fitness, wellness, and nutrition. She also voices narrations and podcasts: everything from a character voice giving math lessons to children to a friendly voice for SaaS instruction videos.”
I’m getting so tired of ignorant people associating modern Korea with eating dog meat. Or even worse, portraying the entire country as dog eaters. In modern times, associating Koreans with eating dog meat is racist. It’s contributing to food stereotypes.
Where are all the dog meat jokes about these countries?
FACT: Other countries eat MORE dog than Korea.
Again, China. So why is Korea getting all the blame?
Over 70-percent of adult Koreans in a 2017 survey don’t eat dog. That’s a rapidly growing number as well. In fact, it’s hard to get exact figures these days about actual dog meat consumption. You can see it with the closing of the dog meat restaurants, markets, and farms. Not because of Westerners shaming Korea. It’s because Koreans just don’t eat it anymore. Particularly young Koreans. It’s a habit for the elderly.
FACT: Koreans have been actively eliminating the dog meat industry.
According to Wikipedia, the number of dog meat restaurants have gone down by half in recent years, and even that figure is outdated. It’s declining more rapidly than that. This has been possible through media and activist awareness BY KOREANS. Not by Westerners shaming Koreans.
I’d argue that the condescending stereotype from Westerners has had the opposite effect, causing some Koreans to become defiant, circling the wagons to defend a cultural practice that goes back to the fall of the Roman Empire. It takes a little time to change an almost 1500-year tradition. I’d say things are going rapidly.
The Korean president adopted a dog, rescuing it from slaughter. There’s a bill in the works to close down the farms. But even without the legislation, dog farms are closing.
Why?
There’s no more business.
The Moran Market, the infamous dog meat market, has closed down. In 2015, there were 17,000 estimated dog farms. Two years later, that went down to 2,800. That’s an over 6-fold decline. Farmers are trying to get out of the industry. They’re accepting compensation to move to different types of farming. It’s not like these folks have the funds themselves to just switch over. That requires a lot of capital investment. And these guys want out.
But sure. Cling to your old stereotypes.
FACT: Modern Koreans overwhelmingly consider dogs to be pets, not food.
One-third of Korean households have pets.
We have TV shows all the time about cute and mischievous dogs. We have active and growing pet sale and pet accessories industries. Have you seen all the cute dog clothes we have in Korea?
FACT: There is no Korean dog meat festival. That’s in China.
People are confusing this with Boknal, which are three days scattered through summer that are considered the hottest. There was a time when dog soup was considered a medicinal necessity to help with those days. Or frankly, to help with a flaccid penis.
In modern times, ginseng chicken soup (Samgyetang) has replaced that on the medicinal side. The little blue pill on the other side.
It’s China’s Yulin Festival you’re thinking of. Modern Chinese are mostly against it. But I understand. You made a mistake. Confused China and Korea. All those Asians look alike, huh?
FACT: The few who still eat dog meat don’t need White Saviors
Don't Let Them Die for Dog Meat Soup
Strung up by their necks, electrocuted, and boiled into dog meat soup. during the Boknal Dog Eating Days in Korea.
It feels SO GOOD to set yourself in a morally superior position. I get it.
Congratulations! You don’t eat dog. You’re a good person.
Congratulations! You think dog eating is cruel. You’re a good person.
Congratulations! You are morally superior to these backward Asian people.
EWW!
Yes, Karen, step away and respect that your finger wagging is another form of colonialism. Koreans are doing fine in taking care of the dog meat issue. They don’t need White Savior Becky to set the natives on the correct path, especially if you’re hijacking benign Korean food posts to scold the Korean race.
All this does is make you feel good. It’s moral masturbation.
This racist stereotype is beating a dead horse.
The Koreans-eating-dog-meat thing is old. It’s stale. And considering that hardly anyone in Korea eats it anymore, it’s racist. It’s another way The West can feel superior.
I’m not even going to go down that rabbit hole about the questionable morality of how humans decide which animals are fit for consumption. (Oh, and the French eat cute bunny rabbits.)
Whenever South Korea rises to prove that it went from a poverty stricken country to one of the most high tech countries in the world–with much faster internet than you got, Douggie–y’all gotta go back and do the dawg thang.
Don’t you find it hypocritical that it’s racist to stereotype certain ethnicities with certain foods, but it’s okay to stereotype one ethnicity for eating a food it barely eats anymore?
The dog farm in the piece was slated to close anyway, due to pressure from KOREANS. Gus didn’t close the damn farm. Really? You thought that?
Gus didn’t adopt all those dogs. He adopted one. He adopted more in Sochi.
It was a publicity stunt by The Humane Society. Though I agree with the cause, this wasn’t some random White Knight rescuing dogs. It was planned.
There is still some road to go. But I’ve been seeing so much ignorance on the internet, like people saying they won’t visit Korea because Koreans eat dogs (though they’d visit China and other dog eating countries).
This isn’t 1988 anymore. There will definitely be a time when saying, “Koreans eat dog,” will be as minstrel as making slanty eyes and bucked teeth.
I have watched “Parasite” a few times now. During one viewing, I broke out my laptop to take notes. There were a lot of cultural details in “Parasite” that people outside Korea wouldn’t get. Darcy Paquet (Hi, Darcy!), who translated the subtitles into English, as he’s done for many of Bong Joon-ho’s projects, worked hard to make the script more international. Translation isn’t just about robotically changing one word for another. A good translator translates cultural cues. On top of Darcy’s great effort, I noted a lot of things that would still get missed. Here are my notes.
Needless to say…
****SPOILER ALERT*****
The Half-basement Apartment
This was personal. I actually lived in a half-basement my second year in Korea. At first, I didn’t think it was so bad. Some friends of mine also lived in a roomy half-basement, and I thought it was just an adjustment to living in the city. When I moved there, and my girlfriend saw it, she broke down in tears at the shame I was bearing for living there.
I learned during my year there why. My sub-basement was right next to a playground, and kids were always peaking in my windows and kicking balls against them–no privacy. The musty basement smell permeated everything. I had bought a dehumidifier, and it helped a bit but not a lot. Clothes had a hard time drying. Weird bugs crept in. That said, I didn’t have problems with drunks pissing on my window.
I had to be extra vigilant during the rainy season. I didn’t get flooded like the Kims did in the film, but I was constantly checking and making sure the drains were cleared. The water almost went up to invasion levels. Got lucky.
I have some nice memories of that time, but those are the memories you get when you’ve filtered all the bad. My blog started hitting its early stride during that year. It was the only Korean food blog in existence then. You can go back to those early posts in 2005-2006 and see what the apartment was like.
IPTime
In the beginning when Ki-woo (pronounced GEE-oo) is trying to get wi-fi, he mentions he can’t get IPTime to work. IPTime is a local brand of wi-fi router. When hunting for wi-fi in Korea, IPTime routers tend to not be password protected. I used to have one, and if I remember correctly, that was its default setting. It wasn’t the most user-friendly device to set up. So people would just plug it in, and strangers could sip off their wi-fi.
Korea isn’t as miffed by privacy as other societies. We hear calls for more CCTVs, not less. I’ve learned to expect no privacy at doctor’s offices, where they’ll announce the results of my drug or HIV tests (used to be a requirement for foreign teachers) in the waiting room.
In the movie, the lady upstairs figured out how to password protect it. I found it funny that they tried to use “123456789” because it coulda worked. It’s been a personal frustration of mine how even large organizations are cavalier about passwords. I used to work for a major broadcaster in Seoul, and I was appalled that the main password to get into their system was similar to that.
Kakao Talk (WhatsApp)
You didn’t hear “WhatsApp” in the dialogue. If you listen closely, you can hear “Ka-talk,” which is short for “Kakao Talk.” Korea’s answer to WhatsApp. It’s how everyone communicates, just like China uses WeChat and Japan uses Line. It’s become so synonymous with Korea, that there are multi-storied Kakao stores selling character merchandise based on their emojis.
The Silver Medal
First off, it’s not an Olympic medal. It translates to “National Classification, Athletics Championships, Korean Federation of Athletics” in 1992. What’s significant is that it’s silver, not gold. There’s no glory in second place.
The Fumigator
Even the Kims said, “They still do that?”
In summer, fumigator trucks would ride down neighborhoods to rid the areas of mosquitoes. Children ran behind the trucks because it was fun to play in the mist. Don’t ask me about the health hazards of that. When I lived in my half-basement, I remember the fumigator truck going by. I didn’t open my windows.
The Food & Drinks
I’m sure most picked up on how food showed the Kims’ class progression, starting with a bag of white bread. Then the Drivers’ Cafeteria (기사식당), which I personally like. They’re cheap but good buffets. Then they’re eating proper rice, egg, and kimchi at home. Then grilling L.A. Beef Galbi at home.
When the family is sitting around and drinking the first time in the film, they’re sharing a bag of chips opened like a bowl as “anju” (pub grub). They’re also drinking FiLite, which is the cheapest malt beverage on the market. It’s nasty.
When we return to that same get together as the Kims are moving up in income, everyone but the mom has switched to Sapporo, which is considered an expensive import. Mom stuck to FiLite.
It peaks when they’re indulging in the high end liquors at the Parks’ house. They fly too close to the sun because everything falls apart after that moment.
Status and Character
This one shot here conveys a good bit of character. The much younger pizza boss didn’t resort to banmal, a form of speaking when talking to someone lower than you in the hierarchy. She respected her elders in a sense, even though she was chastising them. The shorthand way to tell is to listen for the “yo” at the end of the sentence. That’s considered–well–not impolite. Later, when Min is yelling at the drunk, who is older than him, he uses banmal.
Ki-woo tries to appease the boss and get a part-time job. Note how he tries to keep his head at her level or lower to show respect. Yet his sister Ki-jung does not. It’s their version of Good Cop, Bad Cop.
Language forms and body language add this whole rich layer to the class message. I’ve been reading articles about how “Parasite” could be made in any country. Yet I feel it works so well in Korea because of the many layers of hierarchy present in simple things like verb endings, head height, eye contact. A Hollywood remake (PLEASE DON’T) couldn’t do this with this much subtlety. It would have to be BONK BONK on the head.
The Cash
If you haven’t lived or visited South Korea in the past ten years when the 50,000 won note was introduced, you may have missed this amusing contrast between the pizza boss’ payment and Park Yeon-kyo’s payment later. Going from green 10,000 won notes (~$10 USD) to golden 50,000 won notes (~$50 USD) and just flipping through them like they were nothing. I could feel Ki-woo’s heart leap at that.
Shoeless Feet
I didn’t notice this until just watching it now. When Min walks in, he takes his shoes off because we are a civilized country and take our shoes off when entering a home. But he steps in something strange and shakes it off. I found that funny.
That ain’t a nice wood floor. It’s linoleum.
Oh, and I’m sure you want to know more about the rock. I’ve seen these in Samgyetang places and old people’s homes. It’s better explained here.
Convenience Store Bars
One of the great charms of living in South Korea is the convenience store bars. Tables usually sit outside convenience stores and bodegas (called “Super” in Korean). Just grab some drinks, cups, and snacks. You have yourself a cheap all-night drinking spot.
Note Korean drinking etiquette. Pour for your elders. And when it’s friends, you usually pour them for the first drink. Also note that they still have some nuts to eat. We always have something to munch on when drinking. As I said, civilized society.
Just a small thing. The translation says “frat boys,” but he really says neukdae, “wolves.”
My Korean is okay. I recently had a level test, and I’m 3 out of 5 levels in TOPIK, so my ears still need much training. But I’m sure when Ki-woo calls himself a “loser” in the subtitles, he says, “Baeksu 백수,” in Korean. Literally, it means, “white hands.” It’s one of the first Korean idioms I learned. My first girlfriend had lost her job, and she called herself that. Her hands were white because she wasn’t working. So “loser” in this sense really meant “unemployed.”
Yonsei University
That was surreal. I just cropped an image of Photoshop in Photoshop.
Yonsei is translated as “Oxford.” It’s one of the top three South Korean universities everyone wants to get into. It’s one of the SKY universities: Seoul National University, Korea University, Yonsei University. Or SKYE if you include Ehwa University.
Faking one’s education credentials has been a running series of scandals for decades. Every few years we get rocked by these. Educational credentials mean a lot. Even more than experience. Even rappers have gotten in trouble with rumors that they faked their college degrees.
Yes, in Korean hip hop, university cred trumps street cred.
Ki-jung and Ki-woo make the forgery in a PC bang (PC room). They were ubiquitous. They’d be crowded with gamers playing Starcraft. With the advent of smartphones and the banning of smoking in PC bangs, they’ve dwindled to endangered status. More character development with Ki-jung smoking even though it’s banned. Getting a used Shin Ramyeon cup to flick her ashes in.
Am I bad that every time I watch this, I get a bigger crush on Ki-jung?
The Neighborhood
I don’t know where this neighborhood is. I’m sure if I did a little online research I’d find out. Or maybe it’s not a real place in Seoul. I’ve seen areas that look like this in Gangnam (Sinsa-dong or Banpo-dong, specifically) and in Hannam-dong, near Itaewon. I also feel like this could be in Buam-dong, in northwest Seoul, where there are a lot of nice houses. Some more small evidence to point to Buam-dong is that there are no subway stations there. It’s the only part of Seoul without any. The Parks mention it’s been a long time since they’d taken the subway. In Seoul, basically EVERYONE takes the subway at one time or another.
Western audiences outside big cities wouldn’t appreciate how rare it is to live in a house with an actual YARD here. A yard is an indicator of wealth. A freestanding house is another indicator. A two-car garage. WHOA!
One hint was that the driver later took Ki-jung to Hyewha Station, which is in northeast Seoul. I’m wondering if the Kims sort of live near there. It is hilly and has some old “villas.”
Towards the end, there’s this brief shot with the only recognizable Seoul landmark in the film, N Seoul Tower. I’m definitely calling this, saying it’s north of the tower looking south, which does place it closer to Hyewha.
Please tell me if you know in the comments. I’ll update.
UPDATE: The long stairs they climb down in the rain and the tunnel are in Buam-dong. A lot of the filming locations for the Kims’ neighborhood are near Chungjeongno Station. Seongbuk-dong has been regularly mentioned as the likely neighborhood the Parks live in. Either way, it’s in very north Seoul, just north of the palaces.
In fact, we now have a tour that goes there. Check it out
The Parks
There are a few notable class cues when Ki-woo gets his first impressions of the Parks. Nathan Park runs an augmented reality tech company, and there’s an article about him in New York. As they say, if you can make it there…
When taking English classes or going overseas, most students adopt English names, which is why Mr. Park also goes by Nathan and later Ki-woo goes by Kevin and Ki-jung goes by Jessica.
I don’t know what a “Hybrid Module Map” is, but he got some innovation award for his company, Another Brick. Take whatever you wish with that name.
Pets of the Noveau Riche
Mrs. Park has a lapdog. They have a few little dogs. Pet ownership was almost unheard of outside university areas when I arrived in Korea in 2004. My first year, a friend of mine had this large gorgeous dog. While he was walking it, a man walked across the street and kicked my friend’s dog.
Now we have chains of pet supply shops. Mostly small dogs because of apartment living. It’s been fascinating to watch this cultural shift to shunning pets to embracing them.
Random aside. I just found out a friend of mine was university friends with Jo Yeo-jeong, who plays Mrs. Park. Small world.
English + Foreign Brands = Cosmopolitan
She implies her daughter Da-hye isn’t a good student. She also implies it doesn’t matter. She’ll get into a good school anyway.
English itself is a status symbol. Like how nouveau riche Americans think dropping French phrases makes them sophisticated. When I co-hosted an English education radio show, there was a lot of posturing in the message boards about grammar and pronunciation. Petty stuff. It amounted to netizens jostling for status based on their technical English knowledge.
The Korean general public knows more English than it shows. One of the reasons Koreans may not speak English to you is fear of being judged and taken down a notch if their grammar isn’t perfect. That’s an uncomfortable subject many will not admit.
Mrs. Park dropping her phonetically pronounced English phrases were stabs at making her look sophisticated. She’s also impressed by anything western. Even just Ki-woo saying, “Illinois,” impresses her when he’s selling her on hiring “Jessica.”
Foreign brands, names, and such, emit a cosmopolitan vibe. Even the dog food is Japanese. I could spend a whole series of blog posts on this. It annoyed my wife when we first moved to these nice apartments that one show-offey woman kept bragging about all the stuff, including detergent, her international businessman husband brought from America.
Nonetheless, this brought back memories of me tutoring for wealthy families. And yeah, they were all very nice people, like they are in “Parasite.” It’s eerie how similar my past clients were to the Parks.
The Parks’ and the Kims’ family structures are similar. Two parents, sister, brother. Even though things have been changing, having a male heir was very important. In my old teaching days, I remember a lot of families, especially middle to upper class families, had older daughters and stopped having kids when they got to having a son.
The University Entrance Exam
Ki-woo’s sample English lesson gives us a glimpse of the notorious Korean university entrance exam–Korea’s SAT. It’s taken in November, and they release the questions and answers in December. The English section always has the most stupidly difficult gotcha questions that even native English speakers would have difficulty with. I bet the test creators copy and paste some dense academic paper and make one word a blank. The test taker must guess which word they left out.
It’s ridiculous.
The Jessica Jingle
All you need to know about this song is that it’s a common children’s song, like “Mary Had a Little Lamb,” that they’re using to memorize “Jessica’s” back story.
Okay. It’s a nationalistic song about Dokdo, the disputed islands off the east coast. “Dokdo is Our Land.” “Dokdo Uri Ddang 독도우리땅.” My daughter sings it.
It’s used by children a lot to memorize things.
Hot Sauce on Pizza
Koreans are surprised to see that people outside Korea generally don’t put hot sauce on their pizza. Or rather, pizza shops don’t offer hot sauce in ketchup packets. The Korean palate craves the sharpness of hot sauce and the astringency of sweet pickles to cut through the greasiness of pizza.
I loved how clever this was. They connected the pizza box folding job to them later being served by their former boss in the pizza shop to the inspiration to use the pizza hot sauce packet to bloody the tissue to get the housekeeper fired. Long, long con by Bong Joon-ho.
The Hospital
Just a small guess that this looks like the main reception area of Severance Hospital. After my seizure and spine fracture in 2016, I’ve spend a lot of time there, so that waiting area looks familiar. Especially with the airy light. Then again, I’ve been to a hospital in Ilsan that sorta looked like this.
TRIVIA: Severance was the first modern hospital in Korea. Founded by American missionary doctor Horace N. Allen in the 1890s.
They mention that Korea has the highest tuberculosis rate in the developed world. That’s true and has been in the news. It’s another way Bong Joon-ho throws the Korean zeitgeist into this film.
Braised Ribs
I’m glad Galbi Jjim got this translation. Other times, it’s called “Stewed Ribs.” Technically, that is true, but the feel of the dish is more braised than stewed. It’s a special occasion dish that takes a long time to cook. If using beef ribs, they’re also expensive. South Korea has some of the highest beef prices in the whole world. Another subtle nod to class difference that Mr. Park craved such a luxury.
Here’s a video on how to make it.
The Business Card
Business cards are big deals in East Asia. Western businesspeople need to learn the proper business card etiquette in this part of the world. If someone hands you their business card, you treat it with respect. Receive it with two hands. Feel the paper and admire it. Note the job title of the person on the card. In a meeting, put it on the table, not in your pocket. Even better, place the business cards in order of status if you’re in a group meeting.
I’m serious.
Mr Park comments how the business card is a sign of class. Not only is the design good, it’s printed on thick paper stock. Those types of business cards are pricey to make. Patrick Bateman would be envious.
Dishwasher
Even today, most Korean homes don’t have dishwashers or clothes dryers. Ovens are still penetrating the market. Bidets as well. Oh… I love bidets…
Family Register
When Mrs. Park calls the fake agency for a housekeeper, she’s asked for documents, including a family register. Koreans have documentation of their ancestry dating back centuries. My wife’s family goes back to around 700 A.D., and I just recently got entered into the register after ten years of marriage. Asking for the family register shows how ridiculously excessive and elite this agency is.
500 University Graduates
Mr. Kim praises that they’re doing well when even “an opening for a security guard attracts 500 university graduates.”
Recent articles have come out about the over supply of university graduates and how hard it is for graduates to get jobs.
Summer
It’s obvious to anyone not in Korea that all the events take place in summer. Well, they do mention it’s June. But there are other touches I found that signify it.
Glamping
The Parks go glamping. They ain’t camping. No roughing it. There was no serious camping as a past time in Korea until the 2010s. And the camping public when straight into glamping. Being able to go camping in Korea is considered a trendy activity. The Parks are even bringing a BEAM PROJECTOR to go CAMPING!!!
Peaches
Our fruits and vegetables can be extremely seasonal. Peaches are only available during a window of June to late July. Sometimes I’ve seen the season only last a couple of weeks.
Rainy Season
The rainy season, jangma, hits its peak in July, but I’ve seen it start in June. We haven’t had a bad one in a while, but when it hits, it hits hard. Flooding. And yes, overflowing sewage.
Caught a Bouquet
Ki-jung says she once caught a bouquet for someone she never met. In Korean westernized weddings, everything is done for the photos. It’s as if the Korean idea of a western wedding came from watching Las Vegas weddings on TV.
Catching the bouquet is just another photo op. A friend of the bride is chosen ahead of time, and she throws the bouquet to her for the photo. Sometimes it takes a few tries.
Click here for more details about Korean weddings.
Sis
To show our bonds, we call each other by familial names. Big sister, big brother, auntie, uncle. You hear girls call their boyfriends “Oppa,” meaning, “Big Brother.” I call the owner at the Two-Two Chicken I frequent “Hyung,” also meaning, “Big Brother.”
Moon-gwang calls Kim Chung-sook “Unni” here, which offends her for being so familial.
A little later, Moon-gwang gets on her hands and knees, rubbing her hands. It’s an extreme form of begging for favor. I’ll admit I’ve been in a situation where I’ve done this.
Bunkers
Yes, they do exist. For different reasons. But many to hide if North Korea attacked, or even worse, government prosecutors want to do a raid (as she states). There are other bunkers around Korea. There’s one that was built for former dictator Park Chung-hee that’s in Yeouido. There’s a WWII Japanese bunker hidden in plain site next to Gyeonghuigung Palace.
FUN FACT: Many Seoul subway stations go deep underground because they double as bomb shelters.
Taiwanese Castella Shops
This is the line that prompted me to make this post. It’s an inside joke Seoul foodies would catch. Castella shops were one of many flash-in-the-pan food trends going through Seoul.
As with all these trends, many people lost money trying to get rich quick. Usually men forced into early retirement, which is why there are so many fried chicken pubs. Many of these men feel they have two choices: driving taxis or opening a restaurant.
The most recent trend has been Taiwanese black sugar bubble tea. This summer, there were hour-long waits for this Instagrammy drink. Now the cafes are empty.
Ram-don (Jjapaguri)
When the Parks cut their trip short and return home, Mrs. Park asks Mrs. Kim to make her some “Jjapaguri.”
This is a recent junk food creation that came from a TV show that follows celebrity dads as they take care of their kids. One of the dads said his go-to dish was mixing two popular instant noodles together, Chapagetti and Neoguri (pronounced NUH-goo-ree). It’s kind of a Homer Simpson type of dish, but it got popular.
Chapagetti is ramen style noodles with black bean sauce. Neoguri is thicker udon style noodles with a spicy seafood flavor. Mrs. Kim, I guess, hadn’t heard of it because she didn’t have a TV to see the program.
Mrs. Park wanted it with “sirloin,” which classed it up. That’s the translation. She really says, “Hanoo,” which is high end Korean beef, akin to Kobe. So imagine making something like Honey Boo-Boo’s sketti with lobster.
It’s not in the translation, but when Mrs. Park is telling Mrs. Kim to quickly make the noodles, she finishes by saying, “Fighting,” which is a kind of cheer.
It’s an easy dish to make, and you can get the ingredients at most Asian and Korean grocery stores. It’s quite salty. I had it the other night at a bar during a BBQ tour. We ate the whole thing.
Stress Positions
This is an old-fashioned way to punish children. Have them kneel or stand with their arms up.
Moon-gwang then impersonates the famous North Korean newscaster we always see.
Saeng Cream Cake
Mrs. Park talks about when Da-song was traumatized by the “ghost.” He saw the ghost when we went down to get some Saeng Cream Cake. It’s a popular cake in Korea that uses whipped cream for frosting. Recipe is here.
In the meantime, Mr. Kim and Geun-se are talking about Geun-se’s life in the bunker. He talks about how it’s home. SO MANY DETAILS in these shots that I’ll have to pause and pause to catch them all. I particularly found it funny the stack of used condom wrappers on a spike with two hopeful unused ones.
Jangma
The floods hit. The Kims escape. Some say this is a little too on the nose, but so what. It showed the Kim’s going down and down the hills of Seoul to their half-basement. The trickle down of the rich’s filth reaching them. In old poorer areas, you see the spaghetti tangle of utility cables.
I’ve been in floods like this. In 2011, many of us were trapped in a neighborhood after a mudslide blocked all exits. Cars were floating and all.
The Birthday Party
Everything went to shit, as you know, for the Kims. The Jangma rains flooded their apartment as they narrowly escaped being caught. This isn’t a cultural point but some have been surprised about the ending. Pay attention to the wording used when Mr. Kim is helping Mrs. Park shop for Da-song’s birthday party in shops his family would never venture. She talks about how refreshing and cleansing the rain is, when we know how devastating it was to the Kim family. How the rich viewed the rain contrasted so sharply from how Mr. Kim’s class viewed it.
“The sky’s so blue and no pollution.” <–we do have pollution issues in Seoul
That’s when the knife struck down in his mind and permanently split him from the Parks.
Note that all the food and drinks they prepare for the party are foreign–pasta, gratin, salmon steak. The Korean elite, especially the nouveau riche, shun Korean foods and drinks when they want to impress.
Table Arrangements
Mrs. Park wanted the birthday table arrangements to mimic Admiral Yi’s crane formation in defeating the Japanese navy–back in the Imjin Wars of 1592.
One could REALLY be reaching out on a limb when she says Da-song’s tent is the Japanese warship. There have been accusations many times that South Korea’s current elite has ties to collaborators during the Japanese colonial period of the 20th century. Eh–forget I said it.
The Cars
Any car that is not Korean is considered luxurious. Mini Coops, Mercedes. When the guests arrive, one arrives in a black taxi, which is the most expensive taxi out there.
The Ending
I don’t have any more subtle cultural notes for the jarring ending. Other than this movie really portrays Seoul well without even showcasing a single landmark. That’s what Seoul is in my opinion. It’s like Los Angeles– a city with a feel to it that doesn’t need landmarks. A living breathing creature.
One Final Note
Don’t be the daughter of actor Song Kang-ho in any movie. They tend to die.
This post has gone through many edits and additions thanks to our amazing community.Special thanks to William Cho, Kent Matsuoka, Eugene Whong, Jieun Park, Andy Kim, Shawn Morrissey, Sam Henderson, Steven Ward, Rob Ouwehand, Karl Mamer, and Hayne Kim for helping with the editing.
The spicy stewed pork ribs emerged from the kitchen. Two attractive TV hosts gawked at them in wonder. They gazed at a dish of decadence. A dish that broke all the rules. A dish that was Korean but smothered in mozzarella cheese. With small tongs one woman grabbed a meaty rib and wrapped it in stringy ribbons of dairy.
This was the hit Korean TV show “Tasty Road,” which featured new hot restaurants around South Korea. This episode sparked Korea’s current love for cheese, but it goes deeper than that.
Koreans love cheese
The conventional wisdom has been that Asians don’t eat dairy. I remember a short story I read in elementary school in the 1980s. It focused on a Korean-American girl adjusting to two cultures. She considered herself American, but her relatives pressured her to be more Korean. They forbade her to eat pizza because they said, “Koreans don’t eat cheese.”
That was true in the ‘80s.
Foreign influence and crisis developed the love of dairy on the Korean peninsula, starting with Seoul Milk. The largest dairy company in Korea started during its Japanese colonial period. After that time, Japan would figure again in the 1970s with Yakult Korea. This Korean-owned branch of a Japanese dairy sold yogurt drinks to school children. They’re notable for intentionally hiring an all-woman staff of salespeople, known as “Yakult Ajumma.” These iconic ladies in their mustard colored uniforms pushed carts near schools and were the Korean equivalent of the ice cream truck.
After the Korean War, the U.S. infected Korean cuisine with surplus from military bases. Hot dogs, Spam, and processed cheese became part of the culinary landscape. Cheese entered the famous Budae Jjigae, the “Army Base Stew” Anthony Bourdain raved about. Cheese Kimbap populated local diners. Sliced processed cheese found its way into instant noodles. Manufacturers marketed special “Einstein” cheese slices for babies.
In the early 1960s, a Belgian monk created Korea’s first domestic cheese industry in the rural southern county of Imsil. The curds from this village have become a source of pride for South Koreans, enjoying Imsil Cheese on pizzas and grilling it. In fact, some Korean BBQ places offer grilled Imsil cheese as an option alongside shaved brisket.
We can also talk about how Pizza Hut introduced pizza to Korea in the mid-1980s with ads of stretchy cheese. Yet none of those examples explain why cheese has become so dominant in Korea. These just paint the backdrop. The prelude.
It all comes down to crisis.
When Koreans feel stressed, they want to eat something spicy. It’s a form of cathartic endorphin-laced release. Whenever there has been a national crisis, spicy foods have flourished.
The 1997 Asian Financial Crisis fired up Buldak craze, an intensely spicy chicken no sane sober human should consume. It used to be all over Korea, but these days, it’s hard to find.
Then came the 2008 financial crisis. It took a while to hit Korea. When it did, the stressed masses turned to spicy foods.
A small mom-and-pop shop in the blue collar Sillim-dong neighborhood experienced a surge of customers craving their spicy smoky stewed ribs. The owner of Hahm Ji Bak was thrilled. When he had a breather, he ventured into the dining room and checked in on his customers. They said they loved his ribs. When he offered to get them more, they said that they were having spice overload. They wanted to eat more, but they physically couldn’t.
The owner experimented by melting a mixture of mozzarella and other cheeses with the ribs and dipping them as a fondue. The dairy countered the spice so that the customers could control their level of heat. Word spread about this place, sparking the new influential show Tasty Road to do an episode there.
This coincided with the rise of the “Matjip” movement. This was a renaissance of young people rushing to find the best and newest hot restaurants through social media. Hahm Ji Bak got slammed with new customers.
Soon came the copycats, not only copying the dish but the name of the restaurant itself. The hipster Hongdae area proliferated with restaurants serving spicy dishes overloaded with cheese. Lines formed outside each of these. The craze spread through Seoul and then throughout all of South Korea.
“New Iron Plate Chicken” at Flying Chicken 닭날다 in Hongdae
Now Korea is the fifth largest importer of American dairy and growing. It consumes so much cheese, it affects U.S. dairy prices. Yes, your milk got more expensive because of Korea.
When Koreans’ love for cheese in Korean food is influencing global dairy markets, is it too crazy to claim that cheese is now a Korean ingredient?
Nashville Hot Chicken has hit Seoul. There’s been buzz about this new style of fried chicken in Seoul, a feat that is hard to imagine in a country that alleges to have more establishments selling fried chicken than there are McDonald’s worldwide.
What is Nashville Hot Chicken?
For those of you who don’t know, hot chicken is a Nashville specialty, where crisp battered chicken meets fiery chili-infused butter and lard. Unlike buffalo wings, it lacks the acidic tang from vinegar-based hot sauces and stands in stark contrast to typical Korean fried chicken, where most flavors are variations on sweet and syrupy coatings. Hot chicken truly is a distinct preparation of the popular meal. It has incredible flavor when done right.
The Entrants
Rocka Doodle
Rocka Doodle was created in part by Tyler Sohn, a former Manimal team member whose childhood was dotted with frequent tips to Tennessee (Sohn’s parent’s were from Nashville). To recreate the classic Nashvillian dish and keeping in line with the Manimal ethos, they did research, pouring over videos and articles on hot spots like Prince’s and Howlin’ Rays.In June of this year, Rocka Doodle launched a one-day pop up at Vato’s Urban Collective space and used that feedback to tweak their menu before finally soft-launching a permanent location in the Itaewon area in September.
Brave Rooster’s
Brave Rooster’s [sic] had their soft launch in November before finally having their grand opening at the beginning of December. In the month prior, the Brave Rooster’s team had traveled from L.A. to Nashville, visiting many popular fried chicken establishments in hopes of gaining insight into the essence of hot chicken.With their opening timed dubiously close to Rocka Doodle’s, some folks were tempted to call out Brave Rooster’s efforts as a clone of Korea’s first proper hot chicken restaurant. I don’t necessarily believe this was the case. Aesthetically, it’s pretty clear that Brave Rooster’s roots come from benchmarking the unbelievably popular Howlin’ Ray’s in Los Angeles, perhaps as an effort to emulate the 2-3 hour wait times at the small Chinatown restaurant. Homage is further paid to Chef Johnny Ray Zone’s Los Angeles establishment with Howlin’ Ray’s merchandise and videos posted proudly on the wall.
The Ambience
Rocka Doodle
Every inch of Rocka Doodle oozes a distinct sense of personal taste. You walk in: skateboards, school cafeteria trays and other trinkets intersect American nostalgia with a modern street wear flair. The music selection is curated with a mix of old school hip hop, soul, R&B – the likes you’d never see in a hof. The space is small, and the seats tend to fill up.
Brave Rooster’s
Photo: Melissa NguyenLocated in a huge space on the second floor of Garosugil, Brave Rooster’s venue captures some of the vibe from the famed Howlin’ Ray’s, featuring large white walls and bold typography. Photo: James ChungBrave Rooster’s further replicates the Howlin’ Ray’s style by serving their food in paper takeout boxes. The staff even borrows the scripted call-and-response shouts typically heard from Howlin’ Ray’s kitchen when expediting orders. Don’t be startled when the staff loudly calls back to the manager indicating that an order has been placed, it’s just part of the process. Despite going there during lunch time, club music was blasting from the speakers, beats dropping like Itaewon nightlife.
The Chicken
For hot chicken you’d want to look for something that is “served glistening red from the cayenne & lard based paste, smoky not obviously sweet, with an option to have it extremely spicy with just pickle chips and white bread.”
Rocka Doodle
Photo: James ChungFor Rocka Doodle, it begins with a labor intensive endeavor to craft each bite. Every piece of chicken takes up to two days of preparation, spending a day in a brine before going into buttermilk for another. This extra work pays off in the final product: juicy, crispy and flavorful. Or, what some might call the platonic ideal of chicken. Even the white meat, which I tend to avoid at at most restaurants, is juicy and flavorful; it’s truly one of the best executions in recent memory. The fried chicken is then dipped in a chili-infused butter and lard combination, which is smoky and fragrant. The batter is light, elevating the moisture saturated chicken while acting as a ideal vehicle for the spicy oils.
Brave Rooster’s
Photo: James ChungThough Brave Rooster’s imports a lot of Howlin’ Ray’s visual experience, the flavors of a Michelin-restaurant-experienced trained chef are obviously harder to replicate. In general, the standard fare is okay. The chicken is moist, suggesting a thorough brining process. The breading lacked any distinct crunch, while the chili flavor was simple, if lacking nuance. They follow traditional preparation and serve the chicken on top of slices of plain white bread (which Rocka Doodle ditched from lack of customer interest). It should be noted, however, that even though pickles are an integral part of the Hot Chicken experience, the pickles served at Brave Rooster’s are sweet, which some might not appreciate.
The Sandwich
Rocka Doodle
Photo: James ChungRocka Doodle varies whether they serve white or dark meat depending on the sandwich and its toppings. In general, all the flavors complement well, the individual ingredients don’t feel out of place. The boneless meat in the sandwiches get the same treatment as the normal chicken, I particularly enjoyed the skin-on thigh meat, which added an extra textural component to the sandwich. Rocka Doodle has so far been releasing new creations every month or so. Therefore, anticipate a growing menu as time passes.
Brave Rooster’s
Photo: James ChungBrave Rooster’s offers two sandwiches. We ordered the Rooster Burger, which is essentially the Brave Burger with added egg and bacon. The oblong piece of white meat was admirably moist, but didn’t quite fit the bread, meaning awkward filling-less bites were common. The bun probably would have been well paired had it been toasted (it wasn’t). The bacon is topped generously, but is pale pink and limp (not crispy). Furthermore, the expectation of a runny over easy fried egg (like the promotional photos) was quashed when I found a fully cooked egg tucked away under the breast meat. Despite the strong effort, none of the components seemed to work with each other, owing to misses on crucial details.
The Spice
Rocka Doodle
Photo: James ChungThe chili grease at Rocka Doodle is delicate and fragrant. The Carolina Reaper imbues with butter and lard giving it a definite heat. There is a hint of brown sugar sweetness, but it’s subtle and works as a nice complement to the spicy grease. If you are a serious chili-head in search of the face ripping Carolina Reaper experience, even the newly minted level 4 might not be the spice you were looking for. They have added higher levels of heat since opening, so it’s fair to assume that spicier levels might be on the horizon, but you could always ask for an extra shake of cayenne or Carolina Reaper if you’re really in need that extra heat (I know I did). For most, the spice levels offered at Rocka Doodle will be plenty spicy, however.
Brave Rooster’s
Photo: James ChungThe hottest level at Brave Rooster’s is “crazy hot”. As a preface, the spiciest level at the benchmarked Howlin’ Ray’s in L.A. features an undeniable amount of heat, bringing even the toughest spice eaters to their knees. Despite the heat, the blend of Carolina Reaper, Bhut Jolokia and Habanero is smoky, bright, complex and delicious, making the challenging venture worthwhile in the end.Brave Rooster’s “crazy hot” begins with a waiver, which is followed by a loud alarm and red sirens that ring and flash throughout the restaurant. The staff stared at us as we scribbled our names on the form (we were apparently the first ones to ever order this level). The Crazy Hot chicken is served, blackened from caked on chili peppers. Visually, it is reminiscent of the preparation at Prince’s (the original hot chicken restaurant, though Prince’s only uses Cayenne peppers, if I recall correctly), and the fruity scent of hyper spicy chilies hits the nose immediately as the boxed food is set on the table. Served on the side is a digestive aid packet (so your stomach gets protected, they told us). You grab the wings and realize there is as much chili powder on top of the breading as there is flour in the batter. You take a bite and the only flavor you register is aggressive grainy bitterness before an intense heat builds up. It’s easily one of the spiciest things I’ve eaten in Korea. Even for a spice enthusiast it will likely be a challenge. Honestly, disregarding the heat, the flavor is completely awful: very bitter with no balance otherwise. Furthermore, the jump in heat between the highest and penultimate levels is probably in the orders of magnitude. I don’t recommend this level, even for those looking for a challenge.
The Conclusion
I, for one, am very excited about the rise of hot chicken in Korea.Rocka Doodle’s careful execution of Nashville hot chicken definitely puts it among my favorite new places to eat in 2018. Even while making minor changes to localize the experience, they’ve managed to faithfully recreate the essence of hot chicken in Seoul.On the other hand, I can appreciate Brave Rooster’s for putting in a real effort to bring the Nashville classic to Southern Seoul, investing in a chance for their team to travel all the way to Tennessee through California to give Gangnamites a chance to appreciate a non-sweetened but spicy fried chicken option. The menu at Brave Rooster’s also features a number of sides as an option, which are honestly pretty good (though small in portion). The chicken is just okay. Perhaps they’ll need some time to work out some kinks.It’s still early for both of these restaurants, having only been a few months since hot chicken hit the scene. So expect some refinements and perhaps some more competition (I’m looking at you Lords Chicken), along the way.
Rocka Doodle (aka Rockadoodle)
롸카두들 내쉬빌 핫치킨서울 용산구 녹사평대로40나길 9Near Itaewon Station
Tom’s Pizza in Hongdae has been making the rounds in the foodie community because of its high quality New York style pizza. It’s now my go-to place for business meetings. It’s just a small operation with Tom and his wife running the place.
Tom messaged me last night, saying he was worried. He suddenly got 6,000 followers on his Instagram account. He felt that something was about the happen.
Then the robot attacks began. (Click to see the original size.)
The origin looks Korean or Korean-American, considering the content of some of the messages. Then again, it could be some expat who has nothing better to do than to pretend to be Korean–after almost 15 years of blogging in Korea, I wouldn’t be surprised. It could be a disgruntled customer or another restaurant playing dirty. I’ve mentioned in the past how difficult it is for foreigners to run businesses, especially restaurants, in Korea because of dirty xenophobic tactics by some businesses and government officials. I know a couple restaurateurs who left the country because they just got tired of fighting it.
Today, there are over 7,000 followers. Someone is paying a company to do a coordinated attack. I’m just posting this here for future reference.