Category: Beverages

Korean Christmas Drinks: Beverages That Feel Like the Holidays
Korea’s Christmas traditions may not have the same historical weight as in the West, but they’ve come a long way since the late 19th century, when missionaries introduced the holiday, even installing a Christmas tree in the palace by request of the queen. I’m not sure if any Christmas drinks were included in these early celebrations. We cover the history of modern Christmas in Korea on The Dark Side of Seoul Podcast.
While the holiday has taken on unique twists here, one thing remains true: food and drink are at the heart of any celebration. And while Korea doesn’t really have traditional Christmas beverages, I’ve discovered some drinks that feel like they belong at the holiday table.
Let’s explore these Korean Christmas drink ideas that add a little holiday magic to your winter.
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Moju (모주): Korea’s Mulled Wine
Think of Moju as Korea’s answer to mulled wine, but with a cozy twist. This Jeonju specialty is what happens when makgeolli (Korean rice ale) meets a steaming pot of cinnamon, ginger, jujubes, and ginseng—all boiled together for a full day. The result? A warm, comforting elixir that’s low on alcohol (around 1–2%) but high on cozy vibes. This is Korea’s answer to mulled wine, but it’s sweeter, earthier, and way more chill—literally.
The Origins of Moju: A Mother’s Touch
The story goes that Moju (literally “mother’s wine”) was created in the 1600s by a queen consort’s mother. Exiled to Jeju Island (life wasn’t easy for moms back then), she found herself with leftover grains from makgeolli production and a need to survive. What does a resourceful queen mum do? She boils the grains with herbs and spices to create a drink that’s hearty, restorative, and—most importantly—sellable.
The original name was “Daebi Moju” (“Great Consort Mother’s Wine”), but over time it was shortened to just “Moju.” I guess when you invent the coziest drink ever, you don’t need a fancy title.
How It’s Made
The beauty of Moju is in its simplicity. Traditionally, it’s made using:
- Makgeolli or leftover grains (술지게미)
- Cinnamon and ginger (the heavy hitters)
- Jujubes (Korean dates) for sweetness
- Ginseng, kudzu root, and sometimes other medicinal herbs
The mixture is simmered for a full 24 hours. That long, slow boil removes most of the alcohol, leaving you with something that’s warm, smooth, and just a little sweet—like a hug in a cup. Think of it as the PG-rated cousin of makgeolli that you can sip on without worrying about getting too giggly.
Moju in Modern Korea
You’ll find Moju most famously in Jeonju, where it’s often served alongside steaming bowls of Kongnamul Gukbap 콩나물국밥 (bean sprout soup). This pairing is legendary—it’s Korea’s ultimate hangover cure. Imagine waking up after a long night of soju, stumbling into a Jeonju soup shop, and being handed a steaming cup of Moju to soothe your aching body and restless soul.
Fun Fact: In Jeonju, Moju is considered a Haejang-sul 해장술 (hangover liquor), but don’t let the name fool you. With its low alcohol content and medicinal vibe, it’s as close as you can get to drinking a health potion.
Even if you’re not nursing a hangover, Moju is just plain comforting. It tastes like a warm cinnamon hug mixed with the creamy goodness of makgeolli. Some places even serve it cold in the summer with a little ice—surprisingly refreshing!
Make It at Home (or Cheat the Process)
While traditional Moju takes hours to make, modern Koreans have hacked the recipe:
1. Grab a bottle of makgeolli.
2. Add cinnamon sticks, fresh ginger, jujubes, and a bit of sugar.
3. Simmer for about 40 minutes and voilà! Homemade Moju without the 24-hour wait.
For the full Jeonju experience, sip it hot with some bean sprout soup, a side of kimchi, and a hearty appetite.
Moju may not have the international fame of mulled wine or eggnog, but it should. It’s soothing, nostalgic, and tastes like winter should feel—warm, earthy, and just a little indulgent. If you find yourself in Jeonju, don’t leave without trying a cup. Your taste buds—and your hangover—will thank you.
Ginger Ssanghwa-cha (쌍화차): Korea’s Ancient “Power Tea”

I absolutely can’t think of an English equivalent for Ssanghwa-cha. It’s not just tea—it’s a full-on experience. Picture a boiling pot of over twenty medicinal herbs served in a heavy stone cup, bubbling like something straight out of a mad apothecary’s dream. Lurking underneath the surface you’ll often find pine nuts, walnuts, gingko nuts, sesame seeds, and sometimes even a poached egg. Yes, an egg. Before you recoil, let me assure you: it works.
What’s in This Magical Brew?
At its core, Ssanghwa-cha blends:
- Baekjakyak 백작약 (white peony root)
- Sukjohwang 숙지황 (steamed rehmannia root)
- Danggui 당귀 (angelica root)
- Cheongung 천궁 (cnidium)
- Gaepi 계피 (cinnamon)
- Gamcho 감초 (licorice branch)
This isn’t your cozy bedtime chamomile—it’s a bold, complex, herbaceous powerhouse. Sweetened with honey or sugar, it balances bitter roots with a gentle, earthy sweetness that feels like it could resurrect you from a long night of bad decisions.
The Story Behind Ssanghwa-cha
Ssanghwa-cha goes back to the Joseon era, where it was used as a restorative tonic for scholars, workers, and even royals. The name itself means “twin harmony tea”—a nod to its balance of flavors and health benefits. It was designed to restore energy, boost the immune system, and fight fatigue—basically, an ancient Korean Gatorade, but much classier.
My girlfriend and I stumbled upon the perfect Ssanghwa-cha experience during a trip to Jeongeup, North Jeolla Province. The town’s famed Ssanghwa-cha Street felt like a scene from an old Korean drama—tiny teahouses serving this ancient elixir in stone bowls, steam curling gently into the winter air. It was so cozy and atmospheric that I half-expected someone to hand me a quill and tell me to write poetry.
Fun Fact: Ssanghwa-cha was often consumed as a morning tonic to cure exhaustion. Modern-day Koreans still swear by it for fighting colds and recharging the body in winter.
The Ultimate Winter Tea
If you’re tired of peppermint mochas and cinnamon lattes, Ssanghwa-cha is the Korean winter drink you never knew you needed. It’s bold, restorative, and steeped in tradition—literally. It doesn’t just taste like Christmas; it tastes likehundreds of years of history wrapped in a warm, steaming cup.
Pine Needle Tea (Sulip-cha 술잎차): The Drink That Tastes Like a Christmas Tree
There’s something uniquely Christmas-y about Sulip-cha, Korea’s pine needle tea. If I find it on a teahouse menu, I order it immediately. Why? Because it tastes like I’m drinking a Christmas tree. Earthy, woodsy, with a faint whisper of citrus, this humble tea is both invigorating and comforting—like sitting beside a crackling fire after a walk in a pine forest.
Sulip-cha is made by steeping young pine needles, often from Korean red or black pines, in hot water to extract their subtle flavor and nutrients. The result is a brew that carries the sharp, resinous aroma of pine and a mellow, slightly bitter flavor. While it may sound niche or even a bit “too outdoorsy,” pine needle tea has a long history in Korea, rooted in both traditional medicine and rural life.
The History and Health Benefits
Historically, pine needles were praised for their health properties and used in traditional remedies for centuries. Korean ancestors valued pine needles for their ability to:
- Boost the immune system
- Improve blood circulation
- Prevent hypertension and diabetes
- Detoxify the body
- Enhance vision
Rich in Vitamin C, antioxidants, and natural compounds like flavonoids, sulip-cha was particularly popular in winter to ward off colds and provide a refreshing boost. It was often consumed by rural communities who relied on the surrounding pine forests for survival.
But there’s a catch: Pine needles aren’t something you can just forage and throw into your tea kettle. Modern environmental practices mean that many pine trees are sprayed with pesticides or treated with chemicals to protect them from pests and diseases. Harvesting the wrong needles can be dangerous, so if you’re craving a cup, it’s best to purchase commercially sourced, food-safe pine needle tea.
How to Prepare Sulip-cha
Preparing Sulip-cha is wonderfully simple:
1. Ingredients: Fresh pine needles or dried pine needles (ensure they are food-safe).
2. Method: Rinse the pine needles thoroughly. Boil water, then steep the needles for 5–10 minutes until the water turns a gentle golden green.
3. Optional: Add a drizzle of honey if you like a hint of sweetness to balance the bitterness.
The flavor can be adjusted depending on your preference—steep it longer for a stronger, more resinous tea, or enjoy it lighter for a subtle, almost herbal infusion.
Sujeonggwa (수정과): Korea’s Cinnamon Punch
If Christmas had a flavor, Korea bottled it up centuries ago with this spiced, sweet concoction. It’s what you drink when you’ve indulged in a garlic-heavy Korean feast, cleansing both your breath and your spirit, but let’s be honest—sujeonggwa tastes like pure holiday magic.
Sujeonggwa, often referred to as “cinnamon punch,” is one of Korea’s most iconic traditional beverages. A heady mixture of cinnamon, ginger, and sugar, it’s simmered for hours to infuse warmth and sweetness. The drink is served chilled, with a garnish of dried persimmons (gotgam) and floating pine nuts for that unmistakable finish. One sip, and you’re transported to a festive Korean table filled with steaming jeon (savory pancakes) and laughter.
A Brief History
The earliest record of sujeonggwa comes from the 18th century during King Yeongjo’s reign (1765), when it appeared in the royal Sujag Uigwe, an official record of banquets and ceremonial feasts. The name itself roughly translates to “water-based refined dessert,” but there’s nothing subtle about its flavors. Historically, sujeonggwa was considered a luxury drink for the wealthy. Ingredients like cinnamon and ginger were expensive, as Korea had to import them, while sugar was practically a delicacy in its own right. A bowl of sujeonggwa on a nobleman’s table was as indulgent as serving truffles and caviar today.
By the late Joseon period, sujeonggwa became an integral part of New Year’s feasts and important celebrations. Dried persimmons were added to balance the spiced notes with natural fruity sweetness, creating the perfect harmony.
Making Sujeonggwa
This isn’t your average holiday punch. It requires time and a little bit of love, but the payoff is worth every minute. Here’s how it comes together:
1. Ingredients:
  - Cinnamon sticks (around 10 pieces)
  - Fresh ginger (sliced, about 1 cup)
  - Sugar (or honey) to taste
  - Dried persimmons (gotgam), 2-3 for garnish
  - Pine nuts, a handful for the finishing touch
2. Method:
  - Boil cinnamon sticks and ginger in water for about 1–2 hours.
  - Strain the liquid, discarding the solids.
  - Add sugar or honey to the warm liquid and stir until dissolved. Chill the drink in the refrigerator.
  - Before serving, drop in a dried persimmon and sprinkle a few pine nuts on top.
3. Optional: Serve it in a rustic ceramic cup for that cozy Korean teahouse vibe.
The result is a dark, amber-hued punch that looks like liquid gold. The bold, spiced notes of cinnamon hit first, followed by the earthy warmth of ginger, and the sweetness of persimmon lingers at the end. The floating pine nuts? A final nod to tradition, offering a crunchy contrast and a touch of visual elegance.
The Cultural Experience
In Korean tradition, sujeonggwa often appears after feasts, especially during Seollal (Lunar New Year) and other festive celebrations. Its sweet-spicy profile aids digestion and cleanses the palate after rich, heavy meals—making it both practical and delicious. Koreans have long believed that sujeonggwa also warms the body and wards off colds, which explains its popularity in the winter months.
But it’s not just about function. Sujeonggwa is nostalgia in a cup. It evokes memories of gatherings with family, grandparents spooning the punch into tiny cups, and the taste of dried persimmons softened in cinnamon syrup.
Modern Takes
While traditional sujeonggwa still reigns supreme, it’s seen some modern twists. Cafés now offer it as a spiced holiday drink, served both hot and cold. Some adventurous cooks even add it to desserts, infusing cakes, panna cotta, or shaved ice (bingsu) with sujeonggwa’s unmistakable flavor.
If you’ve never tried sujeonggwa, think of it as Korea’s answer to spiced tea, with its own distinct personality. It’s festive, aromatic, and quintessentially Korean. Pour yourself a glass this winter, sit by the window, and savor the way it warms your soul with its cinnamon-kissed charm.
One thing’s for sure: Sujeonggwa belongs on your Christmas table. It’s Korea’s little gift to the season, and honestly, it’s a crime not to share.e.
Citron Tea (Yuja-cha 유자차): Vitamin C in a Cup
If you’re feeling a little under the weather during the cold winter months, yuja-cha is like a warm hug in a cup. It’s Korea’s answer to orange marmalade stirred into tea—a citrusy, soothing elixir packed with flavor and a punch of Vitamin C. Whether it’s served hot on a frosty day or chilled for a refreshing pick-me-up, yuja-cha is a Korean winter staple that feels both comforting and luxurious.
A Sweet and Tangy Tradition
Yuja-cha has been enjoyed in Korea for centuries. The tea is made by mixing yuja-cheong (a thick, honey-sweetened citron syrup) with warm water. Yuja, the Korean name for citron, is a bumpy, lemon-like fruit that grows throughout the southern regions of Korea, most notably in Goheung and Geoje. Citron itself has an intense, sweet-tart flavor, like a mix of lemon, grapefruit, and sunshine, making it the perfect fruit to transform into a warming tea.
Yuja-cha has been loved for generations not just for its taste but for its practical health benefits. Rich in Vitamin C, it’s a common remedy for sore throats, colds, and winter fatigue. In fact, giving someone a jar of yuja-cheong is one of Korea’s classic expressions of care, a subtle way of saying, “Take care of yourself.”
Making Yuja-cha: Sweet Simplicity
The beauty of yuja-cha is its simplicity. You only need two ingredients: yuja and sweetener (sugar or honey). The preparation involves slicing the yuja into thin strips—rind, pulp, and all—and preserving it in sugar or honey until it becomes a thick, syrupy marmalade. But really, you can just buy the jammy stuff at the Korean or Asian market.
To make the tea, simply:
1. Scoop a spoonful (or two) of yuja-cheong into a cup.
2. Add warm water (not boiling hot—you don’t want to destroy that precious Vitamin C).
3. Stir, sip, and let the soothing citrus magic do its thing.
You can also enjoy it cold by mixing the syrup with sparkling water for a refreshing yuja-ade—perfect for when you want something bubbly and bright.
A Winter Staple With a Bit of Luxury
Yuja-cha’s story is rooted in practicality, but its flavor feels like a bit of winter luxury. Traditionally, the process of making yuja-cheong was a labor of love, as yuja is an incredibly fragrant but stubborn fruit to work with. The rind is thick, the flesh has a bittersweet edge, and the seeds are numerous. However, when transformed into a sweet, sticky syrup, it becomes a versatile treat that lasts all season.
In Korea, a jar of high-quality yuja-cheong is treasured in winter pantries. It’s not just for tea—you can slather it on toast like marmalade, drizzle it over yogurt, or even bake it into cakes and cookies for a citrusy twist.
The Gift of Yuja
In Korean culture, gifting a jar of yuja-cheong is a loving gesture. It’s what your mom gives you when she notices you coughing, or what friends send to one another during the cold months. Historically, yuja was even reserved for the elite due to its rarity, and the syrup was cherished as both a delicacy and a form of medicine.
Yuja-cha’s reputation for curing colds has been handed down through generations. However, while it won’t replace your doctor’s advice, it’s still the perfect thing to sip when you’re feeling run-down. And hey, it’s a far more pleasant remedy than a spoonful of cough syrup.
Modern Twists and Global Fame
Thanks to Korea’s culinary influence, yuja-cha has gained popularity beyond its borders. Cafés around the world now serve it as “citron tea” or “Korean honey citrus tea,” often paired with trendy Korean snacks. If you’ve wandered into a Korean grocery store or Asian market, chances are you’ve seen jars of yuja-cheong stacked like golden treasure.
In Japan and China, yuja is called yuzu and often takes on similar uses. However, Korea’s yuja-cha stands apart with its unapologetically chunky texture, sweet-tart flavor, and deep ties to winter tradition.
We like to play with jarred Yuja-cha at ZenKimchi. We mix it with soju and put it on French Toast. It also goes great with poultry.
Cozy Up With Yuja-cha
So here’s my take: if you’re cold, tired, or just need a little citrusy sunshine in your life, make yourself a cup of yuja-cha. It’s cozy, nostalgic, and just the right mix of sweet and tangy to brighten up even the gloomiest winter day.
And if you’re feeling fancy, try a yuja spritzer with sparkling water or even a yuja cocktail with a splash of soju. You didn’t hear it from me, but yuja and booze are fantastic friends.
Conclusion: Bring Korean Drinks to Your Holiday Table
From the spiced warmth of Moju to the festive tang of Yuja-cha, these Korean Christmas drinks are perfect for cozying up during the holidays. They may not have Santa’s seal of approval, but they’ll definitely bring some holiday magic to your table.
Whether you’re looking for Christmas drink ideas to pair with a holiday meal or simply want to add a new twist to your traditions, these drinks will make your holidays unforgettable. So, pour yourself a warm cup and toast to a season filled with good cheer—and great flavor.
Share this post to inspire more festive flavors!
Happy sooltide!
December 18, 2024
Winner of California culinary contest: ‘Korean food will become more popular’
The first-place winner of the recent Korean Sensation Culinary Contest at The Culinary Institute of America’s Napa Valley campus is neither a traditional North American college student nor a stranger to Korean cuisine.
A native of Montreal, Stephen Neumann came to culinary school to pursue a second career. He had spent 11 years teaching English as a second language in Busan and Seoul, South Korea.
Tthe 38-year-old student at The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St. Helena, Calif., is in second semester of his program. His externship is coming up in January.
Stephen Neumann introduces his Koreanized interpretation of Pate Chinois to the judges. (Tammy Quackenbush photo)
According to Neumann, there were more than 200 submissions from the three of CIA campuses in the States (Hyde Park, N.Y.; San Antonio, Texas and St. Helena). Students were given a list of five Korean ingredients and told to incorporate at least two into the final dish.
Obviously, the $7,000 scholarship from the Korea Agro Fisheries & Food Trade Corporation (aka aT) will come in handy as Neumann continues his culinary studies at the CIA. ZenKimchi Food Journal talked with him about his inspiration for the fusion dish, background with Korean food and insights on the future of Korean cuisine overseas.
ZenKimchi Food Journal: What is your food vision?
NEUMANN: I haven’t to discover that. My passion for this came from working in a kitchen. I have a lot to learn. That is why I’m here. Going into this a little older, I have experienced cuisines from all over Asia, especially Korea.
I lived in Busan for a couple of years and then to Seoul and Anyang. I taught ESL for 11 years there before coming to the USA to study culinary arts.
Stephen Neumann garnishes his yangchigi (Korean for “shepherd”) pie. This dish received quite a bit of love from the judges. aT Center Vice President Yoo Chun Sik said, “It’s a bit playful. The sweet and spicy play well in this dish.” (Tammy Quackenbush photo)
What inspired your winning dish?
NEUMANN: It comes from my mother’s French-Canadian background. It was a staple in my home. It’s simple, nice, easy to make. I love the sweet potato–kimchi combination.
My mother never uses lamb in her pâté chinois. But if I’m doing a shepherd’s pie, I wanted to be as authentic as possible. Lamb is a popular meat in China but not in Korea. The bulgogi sauce worked well with the lamb. I didn’t overload it with bulgogi sauce, but it balanced the edge that comes with lamb.
What Korean food blogs or Korean chefs did you study to prepare for this contest?
NEUMANN: I came up with the idea for the dish when the contest began. I submitted this concept and one other, and the shepherd’s pie was accepted. It was just an idea in my mind.
He told ZenKimchi he didn’t start working on the recipe until after it was accepted for the scholarship contest.
What are your favorite cuisines, beside Korean?
NEUMANN: I have been a fan of Mediterranean food. There’s a huge variety on offer: Southern France, Italy, Greece, North Africa. I don’t know enough about Mediterranean food, but I’m open to learn more.
Asian-wise, I was blown away by Vietnamese food. I love the freshness of the greens and the heat. I fell in love with Korean food immediately. There are very few things I have not tried yet.
How do you see the future of Korean-American cuisine?
NEUMANN: In North America and Europe, there is a lot of potential. Eleven years ago before I left North America for Korea, there was little interest in Korean food at all. Still, it’s a vague concept to people, but they love Korean barbecue. North Americans have a singular vision of what Korean food is, but that is going to change. It’s not just going to be Korean barbecue that people will talk about in the future.
The concept of fermentation has taken North America by storm. Korean food will become more popular. I would like to see more Korean restaurants open. They haven’t caught up with the passion or the demand for it.
Living in Korea, some of the humble aspects of the food like the kimchi jjigae and the side dishes — I love that simplicity. It didn’t need any flair to heighten it. It is a cuisine that can be elevated and taken in so many directions.
What kind of beverage do you recommend drinking with Korean food?
NEUMANN: With my dish, it is pub food. Having a stout, a pint of beer, with shepherd’s pie works well on a lot of levels. The beer is refreshing after the heat of the food itself.
My wife is in the accelerated wine program at CIA Greystone. We have started drinking some wine with our Korean meals. There are wines that go very well with Korean food too.
November 11, 2015
How is Hite’s Queen’s Ale?
It’s already been a year since Daniel Tudor’s column in The Economist about the sad state of South Korean beer, even when compared to North Korean beer. It wasn’t the beer itself he bemoaned but the lack of choice. Only three major brands with little variation. They all taste the same unless you’ve been drinking them a long time.
At first, the big chaebol brewers scoffed at the article. They said they were giving Koreans what they wanted. But the Korean public didn’t do the knee-jerk wagon circle this time. They supported Tudor’s article and demanded better domestic beer.
As of a couple weeks ago, HiteJinro has come out with their answer: Queen’s Ale.
I spotted it at my local E-Mart during the Chuseok vacation. There were only a few cans there, so I grabbed them. I’ll note right away that they were priced around the same as imports–between W1,000 and W3,500 a can.
Two flavors–Blonde and Extra Bitter. I did Extra Bitter first.
Some serious color there. Took a sip, and it tastes like a bitter English ale. It may not compete with the best, but it is a serious warp jump ahead of what HiteJinro has produced in the past. This isn’t a beer you toss a shot of cheap soju into to make it palatable. It has a rich nose with the bitter elements I expect in an English ale.
The Blonde also did not disappoint. It was the cheaper of the two, but it didn’t skimp on flavor. Despite its light color, it had some sturdiness. I’d say that the Blonde is a beer to drink with food, especially Korean food. The Extra Bitter is an ale to sip while staring at the glass philosophizing.
The only complaint I have is the price. I noticed that they took great pains in hiding the HiteJinro name. They want consumers to think it’s an import. I don’t know if it’s just branding or they’re doing something a little underhanded. They don’t have to deal with the heavy import taxes levied on alcoholic beverages, so the price should reflect that. Nonetheless, we now have some more choices at the supermarket, and it can only get better.
September 27, 2013
TRENDWATCH: Sugar Cane Juice
You can tell when a vendor has had some success at one of the many food expos during the year. It looks like sugar cane juicers hit it big.
There are three major areas where I check for street food trends, Insa-dong, Myeong-dong, and Hongdae. I first saw this in Hongdae last month, and I saw it again last weekend in Myeong-dong. Last year it looked to be fresh squeezed lemonade and, to a smaller extent, coconuts with straws stuck in them. Now we have vendors with stainless steel machines squeezing the juice out of sugar canes. When dunked in ice, they are surprisingly refreshing. Though I don’t see myself outright craving a cup.
June 17, 2013
Zen’s Booze Review: 7brau India Pale Ale
February 23, 2013
Andrew Salmon’s take on beer in Korea
Not to be outdone, legendary Korea pundit and one-time ZenKimchi contributor Andrew Salmon has a thing or two to say about Korea’s flaccid beer duopoly (flaccid in the taste, not the power).
If the government lowered the ceiling on beer production, it could release a wave of entrepreneurial Korean microbrewers. Might we see kimchi-flavored pilsners, chili-flavored wheat beers, burnt sesame-infused stouts, or crisp pale ales made with Korean mountain water? Such libation would respectfully complement Korea’s powerfully tasty cuisine.
Be ready to be entertained as you read the whole thing in The Korea Times.
November 27, 2012
Korean Beers in the News
A little dark and blurry pic of the seasonal Hobak IPA at Craftworks
Wow, the two big Korean breweries are getting a double punch this week. First is an in-depth piece (as in tons of numbers) by our good friend Joshua Hall (Wine Korea) in The Wall Street Journal. He talks about how the FTAs barely put a dent in beer prices in Korea because of all the other taxes levied on beer. Despite that the import market has grown significantly. He also points out how laws have effectively squashed any local competition so no craft beer market has sprouted–until recently.
The protectionism is targeted equally at foreigners and potential local competitors. If a brewery or brewpub wants to distribute broadly, it must have the capacity to brew 150,000 liters onsite. In the U.S., a successful independent craft brewery such as Anderson valley has only 35,000 liters capacity. The tanks, pumps and building required for that scale require millions of dollars in investment.
In The Economist, they just go right out and say that beer from the two major breweries sucks and goes into more detail on how small brewers have been stymied by the government.
Punitive tariffs prevent brewing experimentation. The Korean taxman treats malt, hops and yeast as beer ingredients, which are subject to low import duties. Anything else you might put in the brew is deemed an agricultural import, and thus a threat to the nation’s farmers. “Speciality grains like oats aren’t on the approved list, so we must pay more than 500% if we want to use them,” says Park Chul, another frustrated brewer.
Last week, I met some friends at Craftworks, one of the stars of both those articles, and tried their seasonal Hobak (Pumpkin) IPA. Drank a lot of it. That’s a nice holiday brew right there.
Brewing Up Free Trade in Korea (Wall Street Journal)
NOTE: If you hit a paywall then Google the article title and click.
Fiery food, boring beer: A dull duopoly crushes microbrews (The Economist)
November 23, 2012
The Coffeeist Manifesto: No More Bad Coffee!
If you have enjoyed my occasional posts about coffee in Korea, you might like my new book, The Coffeeist Manifesto, just released on the Amazon Kindle store. This book contains everything the novice coffee aficionado needs to know about the coffee industry, how to make awesome coffee at home, and how to not get ripped off when visiting coffee shops. The best thing about it is it’s FREE! …for roughly the next 16 hours anyway. If you don’t have a Kindle, don’t forget that the Kindle smartphone app is available on several platforms.
If you don’t like ebooks, it will be available in paperback form very soon through Amazon, What the Book, etc. To make sure you get the latest updates on the book, you can check it out on Facebook and Google+.
If you do enjoy the book and get some good tips out of it, I hope you’ll remember to visit the amazon page again and leave a review.
[box type=”info”] UPDATE: The free offer has expired, but you can still get it for only $6.99.[/box]
October 10, 2012
Korean coffee chains skimp on coffee
Just when I thought my coffee-related posts at ZenKimchi had run their course, the Joongang prints this article about a study by the Korea Consumer Agency that made me spit out my coffee:
Coffee chains skimping on beverage quantities
That Starbucks Americano might come in a grande cup, but that doesn’t mean it’s full.
In its seventh Consumer Report this year, the Korea Consumer Agency said yesterday it found major coffee chains are selling smaller amounts of liquid than they set as their standard amount.
You might expect me to be sharing this article far and wide and doing an ‘I told you so’ dance, but unfortunately this article is more of an indictment of the Korea Consumer Agency than it is of the Korean coffee business.
As I tried to vent about this on Facebook, I realized there’s no way I could fit my comments into the space allowed, so I came directly over here to get this off my chest.
I’m going to break this down by suspect statements made in the article:
First of all, in the introduction:
The agency investigated nine coffee chains, including U.S. brands Starbucks and the Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, and local brands A Twosome Place, Caffe Bene and Angel-in-us Coffee by evaluating 30 cups of Americanos and Caramel Macchiatos, the most popular beverages, from each store.
Yes, Starbucks and Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf are US brands, but it’s important to realize that as a foreign corporation, they are in partnership with a Korean firm. In the case of Starbucks, it’s Shinsegae. I only mention this because I’ve heard many complaints over the years about how much Starbucks over-charges because it’s an American company taking advantage of Koreans, etc, etc. Well, actually Starbucks is relatively cheap compared to other countries besides the US.
But that’s neither here nor there, because my main gripe is with the critical claim of the study:
On average, an Americano sold at the nine coffee chains was 60 grams short of the standard volumes set by each company.
Well whoopty-freakin’ doo. The article goes on to give a breakdown in the numbers from the various coffee chains but fails to mention a critical factor: You’re arguing over ~60 grams of water. Water that is added at the very end of the process, just before putting the straw in. If the total amount of “coffee” (and by “coffee” I mean the total amount of actual coffee + water) is too little, well, that probably means it actually tastes better, or, at least, stronger.
I guess it is possible that they might be skimping on the amount of espresso, but this would be hard to do without watching how individual baristas make the coffee. A standard Starbucks grande, last I checked, has 3 shots of espresso (which I believe is a full shot more than most brands as far as I know). The only way to skimp would be to deliberately leave out one of these shots. Possible I suppose, but much less likely than the possibility that the overworked university freshman making the drinks just rushed the very last stage (pouring the water) of a fairly mechanized process. Another possibility would be that they’re not using the proper amount of coffee beans to make the espresso to begin with, or that they are pulling shorter shots (effectively making a restretto), which isn’t even necessarily a bad thing. But even if you’re trying to gouge customers in this way, the only thing you’re really skimping on is water, and I have a hard time believing any of these chains are so hard up that they’re looking for ways to save a few fraction of a won by skimping customers out of 60 grams of water.
But you know what? None of that even matters because wherever that 60 grams of missing coffee went, it’s largely irrelevant because you can’t really tell where they’re skimping out on without watching them make the coffee. This brings us to perhaps the most infuriating point:
Amounts of caffeine contained in coffee beverages at the investigated chains were also inconsistent, providing consumers with different quality, the agency said.
Woah, hold on a minute there. We’re using caffeine as a gauge of quality now? This is just absurd, considering that low-quality robusta coffee beans have a much higher amount of caffeine than the substantially more tasty and coveted arabica beans. And they also taste horrible (partly BECAUSE of the overloaded caffeine content as a matter of fact).
So theoretically a coffee shop that is TRULY gouging customers by serving robusta beans rather than arabica, would be considered by the Korea Consumer Agency to have “high quality” coffee. In fact, most coffee connoiseurs would rank the beans with higher caffeine levels as lower quality because caffeine generally detracts from the taste. For coffee aficionados, coffee’s caffeine content is more of an annoyance than an asset. If you just need an energy drink and don’t care about the taste, just go buy an energy drink (it’ll probably be cheaper, although certainly higher in calories compared to an americano).
While you’re sitting on that bit of info, also consider this: caffeine level can vary greatly depending on many, many, many factors. Just a few of them:
- roast level (caffeine gets burned up in the roasting process, so darker roasts have less caffeine)
- bean type (already covered)
- brew method (not really relevant, because this study just looked at americanos, in other words, espresso)
- freshness of the beans (in Korea, let’s just say ‘not very’ would be a fair assumption)
- amount of coffee grounds used to make the coffee (not what you might expect. using less beans leads to ‘over-extraction’ while using more beans leads to ‘under-extraction’)
The article goes on to name the coffee chain with the most highly caffeinated coffee (Cafe Pascucci), and the lowest (Tom N’ Toms), which is itself somewhat unfair because they might have different ways of making their americanos. In other words, they could very well be trying to differentiate themselves in the market by making a weaker espresso
So what does all this mean? Well, though I loath to be in the position of defending the Korean coffee shop industry, this “study” seems to have been conducted without consultation of a single expert on either coffee or investigative methods. I can say so, having worked in a previous life as a government performance auditor for a midwestern American state when I was fresh out of grad school. Frankly, the data presented do not even come close to supporting the study’s claim:
“The coffee chains are not complying with their recipes, which has resulted in inconsistency in quality and quantity of coffee beverages,” the agency said.
In spite of their ‘study’ we still really don’t know if the baristas are complying with their recipes. In fact, there are a lot of untested assumptions in that statement. Frankly, most coffee shops’ recipes are unsatisfactory anyway so arguing over whether or not they are followed to a T is just wasting your breath. Besides this, there are natural variations between every coffee shop that cannot be avoided. Nor should they, actually, because finding a favorite coffee shop, and even a favorite barista that makes your favorite drink just the way you like it is all part of the enjoyment of coffee! The whole idea that coffee drinks should somehow be standardized across the board is anathema to the whole coffee industry.
What would be the reaction if some government agency came out and issued a damning report that the different kimchi brands all had different levels of gochugaru and fish sauce? It might be useful to know if you’re allergic to fish sauce or can’t take too much spice, but it is far from a broad hit to the entire industry.
Towards the end of the article, a representative from one of the targeted coffee chains finally gets a word in:
“There is some misunderstanding, since we indicate the size of cups, not the amount of coffee,” said an official at Starbucks Korea.
“Amounts of beverages can be different, since they are handmade by baristas,” the official said.
Actually, that sounds entirely reasonable.
If you’re really so concerned with the quality of your coffee, patronizing the major coffee chains, especially in Korea, is a losing battle anyway (for reasons I explained here, here, here and here). You’re much better off making it yourself at home. In fact, I think I’ll go calm myself down by doing that right now.
August 6, 2012
Looking for the Best Coffee in Seoul?
There’s a great write-up on 10 Magazine’s website on the 10 best coffee shops in Seoul. Here’s what they had to say about one of my favorite coffee shops:
Club Espresso – Buam-dong
Repel North Korean commando attacks and hike down from Inwangsan to find the safest coffee bunker in Seoul. Club Espresso has a ridiculous amount of coffee stored in their shop. Should Seoul come under siege caffeine addicts can sit tight in the Club.
Read the rest and what others recommended.
August 1, 2012