Tag: Seoul

  • How Much Does Seoul Really Cost? A Budget Breakdown for Every Type of Traveler

    How Much Does Seoul Really Cost? A Budget Breakdown for Every Type of Traveler

    How much does Seoul really cost?

    Seoul’s got a rep. People think it’s ultra-cheap (“street food everywhere!”) or wildly expensive (“plastic surgery and rooftop bars!”). The truth? It’s both.

    Seoul is a city where you can spend $3 on a bowl of noodles that slaps, then $15 on coffee poured through a filter blessed by monks in Seongsu (kidding–but not kidding). The key is knowing where your money actually goes—and where you’re being gently robbed by trendy gentrification.

    This is your real Seoul price guide, broken down by travel style: Backpacker, Mid-range Explorer, and Luxury-ish Without Regret.


    The Quick Snapshot

    CategoryBackpackerMid-rangeLuxury
    Daily Budget₩40,000–₩80,000₩100,000–₩200,000₩300,000+
    Meal₩5,000–₩10,000₩12,000–₩25,000₩30,000+
    Accommodation₩20,000–₩40,000₩60,000–₩120,000₩180,000–₩500,000+
    Transit₩5,000₩7,000₩20,000+ (private taxi or tour van)
    AttractionsFree–₩10,000₩10,000–₩30,000₩50,000+ (guided tours, performances)

    🥾 Backpacker / Budget Traveler: ₩40,000–₩80,000/day

    Seoul budget for backpackers

    You’re eating like a local, walking a lot, and maybe sleeping in a shared room—but you’re experiencing the real Seoul, not the airbrushed version.

    Where Your Money Goes:

    • Hostels: ₩20,000–₩35,000 for a dorm bed (Hongdae, Itaewon, or Mapo)
    • Street food: ₩1,000–₩5,000 per item—stick to Mangwon Market or Dongmyo
    • Convenience store dinners: Triangle kimbap (₩1,200), instant ramen (₩900), or gimbap (₩2,500)
    • Free entertainment: Han River hangouts, temple visits, mural walks, street buskers in Hongdae
    • Transit: T-money rides are ₩1,400–₩1,800 each

    Survival tip: Eat where the taxi drivers eat. If it smells like garlic and diesel, you’re in the right spot.


    🎒 Mid-Range Traveler: ₩100,000–₩200,000/day

    Mid-range traveler budget for Seoul

    You want comfort, but not extravagance. You’re here for food, culture, and avoiding anything that involves bunk beds or shared showers.

    Where Your Money Goes:

    • Boutique guesthouse or 2–3 star hotel: ₩60,000–₩120,000/night
    • Real meals: BBQ, jeon with makgeolli, jjimdak, galbi—expect ₩10,000–₩20,000 per person
    • Cafés: ₩6,000–₩8,000 for fancy drinks in repurposed warehouses
    • Activities: Cooking classes (₩50,000–₩90,000), day tours (₩40,000–₩100,000), exhibitions (₩10,000–₩20,000)
    • Occasional splurges: Hanbok rental, temple food course, K-pop dance workshop

    Reality check: A ₩13,000 meal in Seoul can feel more satisfying than a ₩40,000 one in most cities. This is the sweet spot for travelers who want value without sacrificing experience.


    🍷 Luxury Traveler (But Not Stupid About It): ₩300,000+/day

    Luxury budget for travel in Seoul
    Businesswoman brunette with glasses in white trouser suit flying in a plane business jets and drinking champagne from a glass

    You want craft cocktails, boutique hotels with actual insulation, and dinners that make you consider staying in Korea forever.

    Where Your Money Goes:

    • High-end hotel or hanok stay: ₩200,000–₩500,000/night (check out Seochon or Seongsu)
    • Fine dining: Tasting menus ₩90,000–₩250,000+
    • Private driver/tour: ₩250,000–₩500,000 for full-day guide/vehicle combo
    • Spa day: ₩80,000+ for massages or Korean skincare experiences
    • Premium cocktails: ₩15,000–₩25,000 per drink in hidden bars with no signage and mysterious doorbells

    Note: “Luxury” in Seoul doesn’t always mean better service—it just means quieter interiors, English-speaking staff, and less likelihood of running into a delivery guy while checking in.


    Hidden Costs You’ll Want to Budget For

    • Late-night taxi fares: 20% surcharge after midnight
    • ATM fees: ₩3,600–₩6,000 per withdrawal unless you’re using Wise or Revolut
    • Hanbok rental: ₩10,000–₩20,000 for a few hours, not including hair
    • Coffee: ₩5,000–₩8,000 a pop—yes, even for iced Americano
    • Entrance fees: Palaces are ₩3,000; combo tickets save money

    Where to Save Without Suffering

    • Lunch specials: Many restaurants offer cheaper lunch sets (~₩8,000–₩12,000)
    • Public transport: Skip Ubers; subways go everywhere
    • Bakeries: Korea’s French obsession = cheap sandwiches and pastries
    • Street food neighborhoods: Avoid Myeongdong. Head to Mangwon, Gwangjang (early), or university areas
    • Free things that don’t suck: Cheonggyecheon stream walk, Naksan Park hike, museum exhibits, open temples, department store rooftops

    TL;DR – Seoul Can Be a Steal or a Splurge

    Whether you’re rolling in on ₩50,000/day or burning ₩500,000 like it’s kindling, Seoul will meet you where you are. It’s a city where budget travel doesn’t mean boring, and high-end doesn’t always mean better—just quieter and with fancier light fixtures.


    👉 Coming Up Next:

    What Kind of Traveler Are You? – Find your Seoul match whether you’re a solo foodie, a K-pop pilgrim, a wellness nut, or someone just here for the BBQ and the vibes.

  • Majang Meat Market: The Ultimate Guide to Seoul’s Hidden Meat Paradise

    Majang Meat Market: The Ultimate Guide to Seoul’s Hidden Meat Paradise

    If you’re a food lover visiting Seoul, you’ve probably heard of Noryangjin Fish Market for fresh seafood. But what if you’re a meat lover?

    Enter Majang Meat Market Korea’s largest and most famous butcher market, supplying over 60% of the country’s beef. If you love Hanwoo beef (한우, pronounced Han-oo) and want to experience authentic Korean BBQ in a unique, local setting, this is the place to go!


    Why Visit Majang Meat Market?

    West entrance to Majang Meat Market in Seoul

    Majang Meat Market isn’t just a place to buy meat—it’s a foodie destination where you can experience Korea’s butchery traditions, meat culture, and dining customs firsthand.

    Top Reasons to Visit:

    • 🥩 Premium Hanwoo Beef: The highest-quality Korean domestic beef at 20-30% cheaper than restaurant prices.
    • 🔥 Unique Korean BBQ Experience: Buy meat directly from the butcher and grill it at a restaurant on-site.
    • 📸 Authentic Market Atmosphere: Explore a bustling local market where butchers skillfully prepare fresh cuts of beef.
    • 💰 Best Bang for Your Buck: Enjoy top-tier Hanwoo at a fraction of the price of luxury restaurants like Born & Bred.

    What Makes Hanwoo (한우) Beef Special?

    A variety of Hanwoo beef cuts ready to grill at a restaurant inside Majang Meat Market

    Hanwoo is Korea’s prized native breed of cattle, often compared to Wagyu and USDA Prime beef. But what makes Hanwoo so special?

    🐂 Why Hanwoo is Unique:

    1. Incredible Marbling: Hanwoo beef is richly marbled, creating a tender, melt-in-your-mouth texture.
    2. Sweet, Nutty Flavor: Unlike Wagyu, which is ultra-fatty, Hanwoo has a balance of meat and fat, giving it a more robust, beefy flavor.
    3. Farm-to-Table Transparency: Every cut of Hanwoo beef must be labeled with its origin, farm, and grade, ensuring top-tier quality.
    4. Rare & Expensive: Hanwoo cattle are raised in small numbers compared to American or Australian beef, making them a premium delicacy.
    5. Preferred for Korean BBQ: The balance of marbling and tenderness makes Hanwoo perfect for grilling over charcoal.

    🥩 Must-Try Hanwoo Cuts

    • 🐄 Ggotdeungshim (꽃등심) – RibeyeSuper tender with excellent marbling.
    • 🐄 Anchangsal (안창살) – Thin SkirtDeep, beefy umami flavor, slightly chewy.
    • 🐄 Salchisal (살치살) – Flap TailJuicy and flavorful, great for grilling.
    • 🐄 Chaekkeut (채끝살) – Strip LoinSteak-like cut with rich layers of fat.

    When eating Hanwoo at Majang Meat Market, you get the best quality at a fraction of the price of high-end restaurants.


    What to Expect at Majang Meat Market

    Majang Meat Market is divided into three main areas:

    1️⃣ Wholesale Meat Section (도매시장)

    Sides of Hanwoo beef at Majang Meat Market in Seoul
    • Open early in the morning, this is where restaurant owners and butchers buy in bulk.
    • Expect to see giant slabs of beef, pork, and lamb being cut and prepared.

    2️⃣ Retail Butcher Shops (소매 정육점)

    Butcher case with Hanwoo beef at Majang Meat Market in Seoul
    • Where individuals can buy fresh meat for personal use.
    • Many butchers offer free tastings and custom cuts for grilling.

    3️⃣ BBQ Restaurants

    Grilling Hanwoo beef at Majang Meat Market
    • Bring your freshly bought meat to a BBQ restaurant, where they’ll grill it over charcoal. Many of them are on the second floor.
    • Most restaurants charge a small grilling fee (~₩5,000 per person), including unlimited side dishes.

    Note that you may hear a lot about Majang BBQ Beef Alley. It has recently been razed with the resident restaurants scattering around the area. So sad. Even though they had been illegally squatting on that land for over forty years and were a fire hazard (around 30-percent of the restaurants burned down in 2023), it was a cultural landmark.


    How to Experience Korean BBQ at Majang Meat Market

    Unlike typical BBQ restaurants, here’s how to do it the local way:

    ✅ Step 1: Choose Your Butcher

    • Walk through the market and look for butchers specializing in Hanwoo.
    • Tip: If unsure, ask for a “meat platter” (Gogi Modeum 고기 모둠) to try different cuts.

    ✅ Step 2: Buy Your Meat

    • Expect to pay ₩30,000–₩60,000 per person for premium Hanwoo cuts.
    • Some butchers offer complimentary “service” cuts—often lean beef for eating raw (Yukhwe 육회) with sesame oil & salt.

    ✅ Step 3: Take It to a BBQ Restaurant

    • Find a restaurant in the market and hand them your meat. Many times the butchers are connected to restaurants and will direct you there.
    • They will grill it for you over charcoal and provide banchan (반찬, side dishes).

    ✅ Step 4: Enjoy Your Meal!

    • Try dipping the beef in ssamjang (쌈장, spicy soybean paste), salt, or wasabi.
    • Wrap it in perilla leaves (Kkaenip 깻잎) or lettuce for the ultimate Korean BBQ experience.

    Majang Meat Market: Visitor Tips

    • 📅 Best Time to Visit: Mornings (for fresh cuts) or early evenings (for BBQ).
    • 🚇 How to Get There:
      • Take Subway Line 2 to Yongdu Station (용두역), Exit 4.
      • Walk 5 minutes to the market entrance.
    • 🚗 Parking: ₩3,000 per hour, but free parking vouchers are available with purchases.
    The Majang Meat Lovers Experience

    Final Thoughts: Why Majang Meat Market is a Must-Visit

    Majang Meat Market isn’t just a place to buy meat—it’s an authentic cultural experience for food lovers. If you want to:

    Eat the best Hanwoo beef at the best prices
    Experience Korean BBQ in the most authentic way
    Explore Seoul beyond the tourist hotspots

    Then skip the overpriced BBQ joints and head to Majang Meat Market for a legendary meat feast! 🔥🍖

    Bonus Video

    I joined Bart in his video on Majang-dong. You can see more of the market and the old Beef BBQ Alley here.

    Bonus Podcast Episode

    155 Majang

    Oh! And we also did a Dark Side of Seoul Podcast episode about Majang Meat Market. Check it out here >>

  • Is Seoul Safe for Female Travelers?

    Is Seoul Safe for Female Travelers?

    Is Seoul Safe for Female Travelers?
    Dongdaemun Design Plaza

    Seoul is one of the most vibrant, modern, and exciting cities in the world. With its blend of rich history, cutting-edge technology, and mouthwatering food, it’s no wonder that it’s a top destination for travelers from all walks of life. But if you’re a solo female traveler wondering, Is Seoul safe for women traveling alone?—the short answer is yes.

    Seoul is consistently ranked as one of the safest major cities in the world, and its crime rate is remarkably low compared to other global metropolitan areas. But as with any travel destination, it’s important to stay informed and take basic precautions. Here’s what you need to know about safety in Seoul for female travelers.

    Overall Safety in Seoul

    Seoul has a well-earned reputation for being safe, especially for solo female travelers. Here are some key reasons why:

    • Low Crime Rates: While crime exists everywhere, violent crime is extremely rare in Seoul. Pickpocketing and petty theft are uncommon, and many locals feel comfortable leaving their belongings unattended in cafes and restaurants.
    • Walking at Night: Many women report feeling safe walking alone at night in most areas of Seoul, particularly in busy districts like Myeongdong, Hongdae, and Gangnam.
    • Strong Law Enforcement Presence: Police stations are easy to find, and there are CCTV cameras on nearly every street corner, making Seoul one of the most monitored cities in the world.

    Public Transportation: Safe and Efficient

    Public Transportation: Safe and Efficient
    Safe public transportation system in Seoul

    Seoul’s public transportation system is one of the best in the world—efficient, affordable, and very safe for solo female travelers, even late at night.

    • Subway & Buses: The subway system is well-lit, clean, and equipped with security cameras. Women-only subway cars are available during rush hours to provide an extra layer of security.
    • Taxis & Ride-Sharing: Taxis are generally safe, but using apps like Kakao Taxi (Android | iOS) allows you to track your route and share your trip details with friends.
    • Night Owl Buses: Late-night buses run in Seoul, and they’re widely used by locals and tourists alike. They are well-monitored and reliable.

    Cultural Considerations

    solo female tourist taking pictures on top of a Korean mountain
    Don’t worry about pickpockets

    Korean culture tends to value personal space and respect for others, which contributes to the city’s overall sense of safety. However, here are a few cultural nuances to keep in mind:

    • Modest Dress: While Seoul is a fashion-forward city, dressing modestly—especially in traditional areas like temples—can help you blend in and avoid unwanted attention.
    • Lost Items: Koreans have a strong sense of integrity when it comes to lost belongings. Many people leave their phones, bags, and even laptops unattended in cafes without fear of theft.

    Precautions for Solo Female Travelers

    Precautions for Solo Female Travelers

    Even in a city as safe as Seoul, it’s always wise to take precautions:

    • Be Cautious in Nightlife Areas: Seoul’s nightlife is lively, particularly in Itaewon, Hongdae, and Gangnam. While bars and clubs are generally safe, excessive drinking can make you vulnerable.
    • Stay Aware of Your Surroundings: While rare, there have been occasional reports of stalking. If you feel uncomfortable, step into a store, seek help from locals, or contact the police by dialing 112.
    • Avoid Isolated Areas at Night: Stick to well-lit, populated areas, particularly if you’re exploring alone.
    • Book Tours and Classes: These are great ways to meet new people and to dine out as a solo traveler

    Safe Accommodation Options

    Finding a safe and comfortable place to stay is key for solo female travelers:

    • Female-Only Dorms & Floors: Many hostels in Seoul offer female-only rooms or entire floors dedicated to women for added security and comfort.
    • Reputable Hotels & Guesthouses: Choosing well-rated accommodations ensures a safe and enjoyable stay. Look for guest reviews on platforms like Booking.com or Airbnb.

    Final Thoughts: Seoul is a Great Destination for Solo Female Travelers

    Seoul is a Great Destination for Solo Female Travelers
    Dressing in traditional hanbok in Seoul palaces

    With its modern infrastructure, low crime rate, and respectful culture, Seoul is one of the best cities for female travelers to explore independently. While it’s always smart to take standard precautions, most women find Seoul to be a safe, welcoming, and exhilarating destination.

    So if you’re considering a trip to Seoul, go for it! Whether you’re strolling through Insadong’s traditional streets, shopping in Myeongdong, or savoring street food in Gwangjang Market, you’ll find that Seoul is not only safe—it’s an adventure waiting to happen.

    Have you traveled solo in Seoul? Share your experiences in the comments below!

  • The Starfield Library | Is it worth it?

    The Starfield Library | Is it worth it?

    Type: Instagram Bait

    Good for: Instagram–if you’re already in the COEX Mall

    20

    Worth it?

    10

    Authenticity

    30

    Uniqueness

    20

    Fun

    A fake library full of fake books for fake people

    COEX Mall’s “Library”: a playground for faux-intellectuals and a paradise for smartphone lenses. They converted their food court into social media chum, because nothing says “world travel” like faux literary sophistication.

    So you flew halfway around the globe to stand in a fake library? Sure, there are some real books, mostly in Korean, flanked by their poser cousins made of styrofoam.

    Fake books

    Fake books

    Feel free to snap that clichéd Instagram pic everyone else has. Just remember, time is precious—especially when you’re in a city as vibrant as Seoul. Don’t squander it chasing after pixelated prestige.

  • 14 Must-eat Korean Foods In Seoul and Where To Eat

    14 Must-eat Korean Foods In Seoul and Where To Eat

    I’ve been writing about Korean food in Seoul since 2004 at ZenKimchi. I’ve consulted Anthony BourdainAndrew ZimmernLonely PlanetConde Nast Traveler, The Travel Channel, and other world media in finding the must eat Korean foods.
    Here’s the ultimate list. These are foods you can find specific restaurants for. I’m not including foods that you’d find as side dishes, like Japchae and Kimchi.

    Beginner’s Quest

    This list is getting so hyuuuge that I’m dividing it into Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced. Beginner is if you’re new to Korean food, or if it’s your first time in Korea. These are also the foods that are crowd pleasers–the greatest hits. The Top-40 music of Korean food.

    Korean BBQ

    Korean BBQ - a must eat korean food

    The first must-eat Korean food that springs to mind. Cooking meat at your table and wrapping it in lettuce. There’s something primal about that. Korean BBQ is all about community and fun. In Korea itself, pork is king. Beef costs so much it’s for special occasions.

    Where to eat Korean BBQ

    It’s hard to screw up Korean BBQ in Korea. The competition is so fierce that mediocre places don’t hang out long.

    Mapo Jeong Daepo 마포정대포

    Mapo Jeong Daepo 마포정대포

    My go-to place is still Jeong Daepo in the Mapo neighborhood, near Gongdeok Station. The whole area is full of BBQ aromas. Most all the restaurants in that area are great. We made sure Anthony Bourdain went there the last time he was in Seoul. It’s the main place we go to on The Ultimate Korean BBQ Night Out.

    Hongik Sutbul Galbi Sogeum Gwi 홍익숯불갈비소금구

    Hongik Sutbul Galbi Sogeum Gwi 홍익숯불갈비소금구

    I don’t know how long this will hold out against the pressure of gentrification. It’s a packed, packed, packed place. They give your meat a pre-cook over strong fire before finishing it at your table.

    Chicken & Beer

    Fried Chicken and Beer

    “Chimaek” (Chicken + Maekju | beer) got its start in the early 1970s. It’s now such a great must-eat Korean food institution that we have more chicken restaurants than there are McDonald’s in the entire world. There’s something about this combination. Strangely, it works well with watered down Korean beers–preferably Cass. I swear.
    I’m more a fan of classic styles. Recent styles of fried chicken lean more to the American style–thick flour-based crust. I like the thin starch-based coating with the aromatic spicies.

    Where to eat Chicken & Beer

    I’d almost say it’s hard to go wrong, but it is. Chicken hofs are neighborhood haunts. There’s no exclusive I-gotta-try-this chicken pub with a line out the door. In fact, if there’s a line out the door stay far away from it. My rule of thumb is this. If it’s full of beautiful young women taking Insta-selfies, it’s not good chicken. If it’s grease stained and full of middle-aged men who look like life has kicked them in the teeth, great chicken.

    Two-Two Chicken 둘둘치킨

    You can’t go wrong with Two-Two (pictured above). You’ll likely be the youngest person in any of its locations. It’s a franchise, but each venue acts like a mom-and-pop shop. The basic recipe and yangnyeom (spicy sweet garlic sauce) are the same, but they put their own spins on the sauces. We include a stop at a Two-Two on our Authentic Korean Chicken & Beer Experience. They’re outside Gongdeok Station, and the couple who runs it is great and welcoming. I want them to get more love.

    Chicken Baengi 치킨뱅이

    They also do it classic style. Get their chicken 3-ways: fried, sauced, and garlic. Then go for the pa dalk, boneless chicken thighs on top of dressed ribbons of green onions. My favorite location is run by two ladies on the north of the main strip of Hongdae. Go out Hongik University Station, exit 7 (Holiday Inn) and head due south a couple of blocks. It’ll be on your right.

    Nurungji Tongdalk 누룽지통닭

    Nurungji Tongdalk 누룽지통닭

    A new brand, they don’t do fried. Chicken is spit roasted over wood and served on sizzling platters of crispy rice. We also go to this on the new Authentic Korean Chicken & Beer Experience. The ones near Gongdeok and Sookmyung Women’s University kill.

    Locations?

    Since these are franchises, your best bet is to copy and paste the Korean names above into Google Maps, Naver Map, or Kakao Map.

    Kimchi Jjigae

    Kimchi Jjigae 김치찌개

    Okay, you fans of “Always Be My Maybe.” This stew sits on the pantheon of comfort foods, next to macaroni and cheese. It is so perfect on a chilly Seoul night. You want it chock full of tofu and pork. The canned tuna version is also quite good, though I like it better when it’s served at a drinking establishment in a beat-up tin pot.

    Where to eat Kimchi Jjigae

    Most Korean diners, like Kimbap Cheonguk, will have it on the menu. There are few places that make it the star of their menus, except…

    Omori Jjigae 오모리찌개전문점

    Omori Jjigae 오모리찌개전문점

    Go down to Jamsil, across the lake from Lotte World, and up to the second floor for this. It’s a chain, but this is the flagship store. Go to the second floor. The first floor is for black bean noodles. Here, you can get 3-year-old Kimchi Jjigae. You’d be surprised at how subtle and smooth it tastes.

    Gwanghwamun Jip 광화문집

    Gwanghwamun Jip 광화문집

    Tiny, tiny, tiny place near Gyeongbokgung Palace. They have two items, a very tart pork kimchi jjigae and gyeran mari (rolled omelet). Get both.

    Bibimbap

    Jeonju Bibimbap

    (Gogung Jeonju Bibimbap)

    The king of rice bowls. There are many kinds of bibimbap. There’s the dolsot sizzling kind. There’s the fancy Jeonju bibimbap. There’s your basic Korean diner bibimbap served in a plastic bowl with a fried egg.
    Contrary to what you may have had outside Korea, it doesn’t always come sizzling, and it doesn’t always come with an egg. There are infinite combinations.

    Where to eat Bibimbap

    Like Kimchi Jjigae, it’s available in most diners. There is a chain called Bon Bibimbap, the same as Bon Juk. It’s just fine and dandy. But if you want to go for something more serious…

    Jeonju Yuhalmeoni Bibimbap 전주유할머니비빔밥

    Jeonju Yuhalmeoni Bibimbap 전주유할머니비빔밥

    Respect, respect, respect. Grandmother knows how to make good bibimbap. This place has been around for over 50 years. Simple menu. Get the bibimbap and the Kongnamul Gukbap (Bean Sprout Soup).

    Gogung 고궁

    I love Gogung (pictured above). The original location is in Jeonju. It’s a case of franchising out and collapsing. It’s hard to find a Gogung in Seoul anymore. Thankfully, there is one in the Starfield Mall in Gangnam. This is classic refined royal Jeonju bibimbap served in brass bowls.

    Naengmyeon

    Naengmyeon 냉면

    Chilled. Buckwheat. Noodles.

    It’s in my top ten of favorite Korean foods. All the chilled buckwheat noodle dishes are. Naengmyeon itself comes from North Korea. The classic Pyongyang style is light with a clean sophisticated broth. Can you believe that before the 20th century, northern Korea was known for more fancy artistocratic cuisine than the south?

    Naengmyeon always hits the spot at the end of a barbecue meal, with a few squirts of vinegar and hot mustard from the bottles sitting next to you. That may be why places like Woo Lae Oak are famous for the naengmyeon. Fancy BBQ must follow with refined naengmyeon.
    There are usually two types available, noodles in soup (mul naengmyeon), and noodles mixed with a spicy gochujang sauce (bibim naengmyeon). Of course, there are many more varieties, like there are of bibimbap. Baby steps.

    Where to eat Naengmyeon

    If you’re in Korea for a short while, just order a bowl at the end of your BBQ dinner. The one pictured above was just a W5,000 (~$4.25 USD) lunch special at a little BBQ joint near my regular jogging route. Otherwise, try these places.

    Woo Lae Oak 우래옥

    Woo Lae Oak 우래옥

    Famous, famous place. Almost too famous for being too famous. I like it, but it feels a bit stodgy. It’s where you take your grandma after church. The prices are premium, but it’s worth it for the naengmyeon.

    Dongmu Bapsang (Comrade’s Table) 둥무밥상

    Dongmu Bapsang (Comrade's Table) 둥무밥상

    He used to cook for officers in the North Korean army before defecting to the South. Now his cozy shop serves dishes that he misses from home. Yes, definitely eat the naengmyeon here. Also try the soondae sausages.

    Jeongin Myeonok 정인면옥

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    Watch out for the lunch lines here. It gets crowded. The naengmyeon is great, but it may also be because it’s one of the few good restaurants in Yeouido.

    Street Food

    When in Asia, tourists want street food. Seoul has good street food, but don’t expect what you’d find in Southeast Asia. Street food in Korea primarily acts as a snack and late night starch filler for an alcohol-laden stomach. Most carts serve the same exact thing. There are variations, but those are in areas that cater to tourists and college students.

    Ddeokbokki Tteokbokki 떡볶이

    Tteokbokki

    Don’t call it “topoki!” That was some hare-brained scheme concocted by a government agency ten years ago. They’re chewy rice cakes in a spicy sauce. I personally think the stuff on the street is sweeter because it’s more suited for kids. Tteokbokki in bricks-and-mortars, like Jaws Food and Mimine (pictured above), tend to be better. Spicier and more savory.

    Oden Eomuk 오댕 어묵

    Odeng/Eomuk

    Fish cakes on sticks soaking in MSG-saturated broth. Just go and grab a stick, brush on a few happy dabs of sauce with the brush Bob Ross style, eat, and pay. The proprietor counts the number of sticks you have left over.

    Hot Ba 홋바

    Hot Ba

    Or Hot Bar? It’s fish dough shaped into logs on sticks and deep fried like a corn dog. In fact, they come with hot dogs and other ingredients in them. That’s one of my favorite street foods.

    Twigim 퇴김

    Twigim

    Fried stuff. Usually sweet potatoes, shrimp, sesame leaves. It’s like tempura but heavier.

    Soondae 순대

    Soondae

    The proper romanization is sundae, but I don’t want you to confuse this with ice cream. They’re blood and glass noodle sausages. The traditional version uses rice instead of noodles, but the street version uses the glass ones, giving them a bouncy texture. It’s served with pig liver and offal. What I like to do is make Kim-Tteok-Soon. Mix the Twigim and Soondae together with Tteokbokki sauce. It’s what Harold and Kumar would crave if they lived in Korea.

    Hotteok 호떡

    Hotteok

    Fried dough stuffed with brown sugar, nuts, and other goodies. They are delicious and make great hand warmers. They emerge in high numbers during winter.

    Bungeobbang 붕어빵

    Bungeobbang

    Sweet cakes stuffed with sweet red bean or custard. Another great hand warmer and quite good.

    Gyeranbbang 계란빵

    Gyeranbbang

    Literally, “egg bread.” Sweet pancake batter cooked in a cup like a muffin with an egg cracked inside. Sweet and savory. Protein and carbs. It’s the breakfast you never knew you needed.

    Where to eat Seoul Street Food

    You can get it most anywhere. Here are some areas that have a unique touch.

    Myeong-dong

    It’s one of the few times I’ll say Myeong-dong has better food. The street food scene there is competitive. But Myeong-dong is like Times Square in New York. There are more tourists than locals. It’s here that you’ll find the Frankenstein creations, like lobster with cheese. The Tornado Potato was born here, as well as many street food staples and flashes in the pans.

    Insa-dong

    It’s another touristy area. Here you’ll find the famous Insa-dong Hotteok, which puts a bit of cornmeal in its dough, giving it a super crunchy texture. Other highlights are the fire-grilled chicken on a stick and my beloved egg breads. Insa-dong’s street food scene took a bad hit from both COVID-19’s tourism dearth and the relentless bulldozing to make way for bland shopping malls.

    Hongdae

    Carts with the basics camp outside Hongik University Station, exit 9. Further down, past the buskers, you can find what I call Crazy Street Food Alley. It’s a series of stalls that are always rotating with new street food ideas. It’s like a market research lab throwing everything against the wall to see what sticks.

    Noryangjin Cup Rice Road 컵밥거리

    159367174774 20200703

    Now this is food that is meant to be eaten like a meal. These stands cater to young adults studying for professional exams. The cram schools to help them prepare for these career tests congregate here. Cup Rice Road sprouted as a bunch of carts to feed these poor hungry young professionals-to-be.
    Here’s a map of all the places I’ve mentioned.

    Patbingsu

    Patbingsu 팥빙소

    Dessert! We don’t really have desserts in the Western sense in Korea. We do have this shaved ice treat. The competition each summer with Bingsu makers gets more intense each year.
    It’s a war!
    The goal is to shave ice so perfect it’s fluffy fresh fallen snow. The ice itself usually comes from frozen milk, but I’ve seen other ice sources, including coffee and makgeolli (Korean rice ale).

    Where to eat Patbingsu

    The margins make this lucrative, so everyone is trying to get into the game. Most all bakery chains, like Paris Baguette and Tous Les Jours, get all into this. Most coffee shops do this. There are some places that specialize in it.

    Sulbing 설빙

    Sulbing is a franchise that popped up a few years ago. I wondered how risky such a venture would be–as in, who would order bingsu in winter? But they’ve done well. They’re crowded in the summer. Sulbing specializes in Instagrammy bingsu, and that’s a good thing. They’re showstoppers. Don’t worry about how large they are. Remember they’re just shaved ice. When melted the liquid would fit into a grande Starbucks cup. If you’re traveling with kids this is the treat they’ll remember.
    Since it’s a franchise, just copy and paste 설빙 into your map app of choice to find your closest location.

    Mealtop 밀탑

    Odd name. Odd location. It’s hidden on the 5th floor of Hyundai Department Store in Apgujeong. Well, not really hidden. It takes up a lot of space. But you have to go up a bunch of escalators to get there. They have a big variety of bingsu. What I like is that the portions or smaller, so you can try different flavors in one go. They are starting to franchise out.

  • Trending in Seoul: Bagels

    Trending in Seoul: Bagels

    According to the JoongAng Ilbo, bagels have really hit it big in Korea. In the expat-o-sphere, we’ve been noticing more bagel shops pop up over the years in our group Restaurant Buzz Seoul. The New Yorkers and Montréalers pooh-poohed most of the offerings. Not chewy enough. Too much cream cheese. Trying to make them as sweet as doughnuts. Or just not understanding how a bagel should be sliced before applying cream cheese.

    I have two indicators for when a food has become a big trend. One is when I see a type of food in an area that is not that adventurous–like the suburbs I live in. I was surprised last year to find gourmet $5 doughnuts and really good patisseries in my culinarily conservative neighborhood.

    The other indicator is when my non-adventurous Korean friends say they want to try a certain food that I’d been hearing buzz about. Years ago, I knew the ribs with cheese thing was blowing up when my rice-and-kimchi-every-meal (RAKEM?) friends said they wanted to try them. This past weekend, one of them said she wanted to go to Anguk-dong to stand in line for bagels.

    Really?

    I knew of one bagel place in Anguk-dong that’s always closed when I’m in the area, but I’m usually there in the evening getting ready to lead the Dark Side of Seoul Ghost Walk. I’d never tried it. But if my suburban RAKEM friend who almost never goes into the city wants to journey there early in the morning to wait in line for one–hmm… something’s happening.

    The eatery in the JoongAng newsletter is Brick Lane Bagel, based in London.

    London? Bagels? A little discordant there.

    Turns out, TIL, that Brick Lane has a respected history with “beigels” since 1974. As someone who was born that year, it’s troubling to read articles that treat that as ancient history.

    bagels
    Shamelessly ripped from the JoongAnge Ilbo 요리레터, where the author waited 2.5 hours in line for these bagels

    Where the London versions seem to be massively stuffed with meats and pickles, the Korean way is to load them down with cream cheese.

    Why are bagels hitting it big?

    Korea doesn’t have a significant Jewish community–only 1,000 or so. Bagels have been introduced by Koreans studying, working, or growing up overseas bringing what they loved from those places to the Land of the Morning Crowds.

    According to the newsletter, it was COVID. Korea started really getting into bread about as much as western countries were getting into home breadmaking. Korean consumption of bread went up 68% between 2018 and 2022. For semantics sake, I’m doing the Korean thing here and including pastries and anything made with dough and baked as “bread.”

    The Korean style bagel is characterized by not being as chewy as the North American versions. This I find surprising, as the Korean palate leans towards chewy textures (tteokbokki, chewy bacon, chewy Jeju black pork, savory jellies–I could make a big list and another post about this). They’re also moister.

    Korean ingredients, like buchu (Chinese chives), raw garlic, and sweet red beans are mixed with the cream cheese an loaded on.

    158567 1632362404828555

    As for me, I’ve fallen in love with another pastry that’s gotten big lately: Salt Bread (Sogeum Bbang 소금빵). Supposedly, they were invented in Japan as Shio Pan (again, “Salt Bread”). They look like croissants, but they have the texture of Thanksgiving dinner rolls with an airy pocket. The outside is brushed with salt water, which produces a crispy shattering crust. They’re just salty enough with no sweetness, which is a rarity in a country that loves to turn every bread product into candy.

    My grouchy expat cynicism in check, I have been thrilled to see this new phase of Korean baked goods emerge. Ketchup-laden sugar-garlic pastries are giving way to more sophisticated and positively localized fare. It’s an exciting time to be here.

  • Cultural Details You Missed in “Parasite”

    Cultural Details You Missed in “Parasite”

    I have watched “Parasite” a few times now. During one viewing, I broke out my laptop to take notes. There were a lot of cultural details in “Parasite” that people outside Korea wouldn’t get. Darcy Paquet (Hi, Darcy!), who translated the subtitles into English, as he’s done for many of Bong Joon-ho’s projects, worked hard to make the script more international. Translation isn’t just about robotically changing one word for another. A good translator translates cultural cues. On top of Darcy’s great effort, I noted a lot of things that would still get missed. Here are my notes.

    Needless to say…

    ****SPOILER ALERT*****

    The Half-basement Apartment

    Half basement apartment

    This was personal. I actually lived in a half-basement my second year in Korea. At first, I didn’t think it was so bad. Some friends of mine also lived in a roomy half-basement, and I thought it was just an adjustment to living in the city. When I moved there, and my girlfriend saw it, she broke down in tears at the shame I was bearing for living there. 

    I learned during my year there why. My sub-basement was right next to a playground, and kids were always peaking in my windows and kicking balls against them–no privacy. The musty basement smell permeated everything. I had bought a dehumidifier, and it helped a bit but not a lot. Clothes had a hard time drying. Weird bugs crept in. That said, I didn’t have problems with drunks pissing on my window.

    I had to be extra vigilant during the rainy season. I didn’t get flooded like the Kims did in the film, but I was constantly checking and making sure the drains were cleared. The water almost went up to invasion levels. Got lucky.

    I have some nice memories of that time, but those are the memories you get when you’ve filtered all the bad. My blog started hitting its early stride during that year. It was the only Korean food blog in existence then. You can go back to those early posts in 2005-2006 and see what the apartment was like. 

    IPTime

    iptime

    In the beginning when Ki-woo (pronounced GEE-oo) is trying to get wi-fi, he mentions he can’t get IPTime to work. IPTime is a local brand of wi-fi router. When hunting for wi-fi in Korea, IPTime routers tend to not be password protected. I used to have one, and if I remember correctly, that was its default setting. It wasn’t the most user-friendly device to set up. So people would just plug it in, and strangers could sip off their wi-fi.

    Korea isn’t as miffed by privacy as other societies. We hear calls for more CCTVs, not less. I’ve learned to expect no privacy at doctor’s offices, where they’ll announce the results of my drug or HIV tests (used to be a requirement for foreign teachers) in the waiting room.

    In the movie, the lady upstairs figured out how to password protect it. I found it funny that they tried to use “123456789” because it coulda worked. It’s been a personal frustration of mine how even large organizations are cavalier about passwords. I used to work for a major broadcaster in Seoul, and I was appalled that the main password to get into their system was similar to that.

    Kakao Talk (WhatsApp)

    Kakao Talk

    You didn’t hear “WhatsApp” in the dialogue. If you listen closely, you can hear “Ka-talk,” which is short for “Kakao Talk.” Korea’s answer to WhatsApp. It’s how everyone communicates, just like China uses WeChat and Japan uses Line. It’s become so synonymous with Korea, that there are multi-storied Kakao stores selling character merchandise based on their emojis.

    The Silver Medal

    Silver Medal

    First off, it’s not an Olympic medal. It translates to “National Classification, Athletics Championships, Korean Federation of Athletics” in 1992. What’s significant is that it’s silver, not gold. There’s no glory in second place.

    The Fumigator

    Fumigator

    Even the Kims said, “They still do that?”

    In summer, fumigator trucks would ride down neighborhoods to rid the areas of mosquitoes. Children ran behind the trucks because it was fun to play in the mist. Don’t ask me about the health hazards of that. When I lived in my half-basement, I remember the fumigator truck going by. I didn’t open my windows.

    The Food & Drinks

    I’m sure most picked up on how food showed the Kims’ class progression, starting with a bag of white bread. Then the Drivers’ Cafeteria (기사식당), which I personally like. They’re cheap but good buffets. Then they’re eating proper rice, egg, and kimchi at home. Then grilling L.A. Beef Galbi at home.  

    When the family is sitting around and drinking the first time in the film, they’re sharing a bag of chips opened like a bowl as “anju” (pub grub). They’re also drinking FiLite, which is the cheapest malt beverage on the market. It’s nasty.

    When we return to that same get together as the Kims are moving up in income, everyone but the mom has switched to Sapporo, which is considered an expensive import. Mom stuck to FiLite. 

    It peaks when they’re indulging in the high end liquors at the Parks’ house. They fly too close to the sun because everything falls apart after that moment. 

    Status and Character

    Pizza boss dynamics

    This one shot here conveys a good bit of character. The much younger pizza boss didn’t resort to banmal, a form of speaking when talking to someone lower than you in the hierarchy. She respected her elders in a sense, even though she was chastising them. The shorthand way to tell is to listen for the “yo” at the end of the sentence. That’s considered–well–not impolite. Later, when Min is yelling at the drunk, who is older than him, he uses banmal.

    Ki-woo tries to appease the boss and get a part-time job. Note how he tries to keep his head at her level or lower to show respect. Yet his sister Ki-jung does not. It’s their version of Good Cop, Bad Cop. 

    Language forms and body language add this whole rich layer to the class message. I’ve been reading articles about how “Parasite” could be made in any country. Yet I feel it works so well in Korea because of the many layers of hierarchy present in simple things like verb endings, head height, eye contact. A Hollywood remake (PLEASE DON’T) couldn’t do this with this much subtlety. It would have to be BONK BONK on the head.

     The Cash

    10,000 won

    50,000 won | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite" If you haven’t lived or visited South Korea in the past ten years when the 50,000 won note was introduced, you may have missed this amusing contrast between the pizza boss’ payment and Park Yeon-kyo’s payment later. Going from green 10,000 won notes (~$10 USD) to golden 50,000 won notes (~$50 USD) and just flipping through them like they were nothing. I could feel Ki-woo’s heart leap at that.

    Shoeless Feet

    shoeless feet

    I didn’t notice this until just watching it now. When Min walks in, he takes his shoes off because we are a civilized country and take our shoes off when entering a home. But he steps in something strange and shakes it off. I found that funny.

    That ain’t a nice wood floor. It’s linoleum.

    Oh, and I’m sure you want to know more about the rock. I’ve seen these in Samgyetang places and old people’s homes. It’s better explained here.

    Convenience Store Bars

    convenience store bars

    One of the great charms of living in South Korea is the convenience store bars. Tables usually sit outside convenience stores and bodegas (called “Super” in Korean). Just grab some drinks, cups, and snacks. You have yourself a cheap all-night drinking spot. 

    Note Korean drinking etiquette. Pour for your elders. And when it’s friends, you usually pour them for the first drink. Also note that they still have some nuts to eat. We always have something to munch on when drinking. As I said, civilized society. 

    Wolves

    Just a small thing. The translation says “frat boys,” but he really says neukdae, “wolves.”

    My Korean is okay. I recently had a level test, and I’m 3 out of 5 levels in TOPIK, so my ears still need much training. But I’m sure when Ki-woo calls himself a “loser” in the subtitles, he says, “Baeksu 백수,” in Korean. Literally, it means, “white hands.” It’s one of the first Korean idioms I learned. My first girlfriend had lost her job, and she called herself that. Her hands were white because she wasn’t working. So “loser” in this sense really meant “unemployed.”

    Yonsei University

    Yonsei photoshop

    That was surreal. I just cropped an image of Photoshop in Photoshop. 

    Yonsei is translated as “Oxford.” It’s one of the top three South Korean universities everyone wants to get into. It’s one of the SKY universities: Seoul National University, Korea University, Yonsei University.  Or SKYE if you include Ehwa University.

    Faking one’s education credentials has been a running series of scandals for decades. Every few years we get rocked by these. Educational credentials mean a lot. Even more than experience. Even rappers have gotten in trouble with rumors that they faked their college degrees.

    Yes, in Korean hip hop, university cred trumps street cred.

    Ki-jung and Ki-woo make the forgery in a PC bang (PC room). They were ubiquitous. They’d be crowded with gamers playing Starcraft. With the advent of smartphones and the banning of smoking in PC bangs, they’ve dwindled to endangered status. More character development with Ki-jung smoking even though it’s banned. Getting a used Shin Ramyeon cup to flick her ashes in.

    Am I bad that every time I watch this, I get a bigger crush on Ki-jung?

    The Neighborhood

    neighborhood

    I don’t know where this neighborhood is. I’m sure if I did a little online research I’d find out. Or maybe it’s not a real place in Seoul. I’ve seen areas that look like this in Gangnam (Sinsa-dong or Banpo-dong, specifically) and in Hannam-dong, near Itaewon. I also feel like this could be in Buam-dong, in northwest Seoul, where there are a lot of nice houses. Some more small evidence to point to Buam-dong is that there are no subway stations there. It’s the only part of Seoul without any. The Parks mention it’s been a long time since they’d taken the subway. In Seoul, basically EVERYONE takes the subway at one time or another.

    Western audiences outside big cities wouldn’t appreciate how rare it is to live in a house with an actual YARD here. A yard is an indicator of wealth. A freestanding house is another indicator. A two-car garage. WHOA!

    One hint was that the driver later took Ki-jung to Hyewha Station, which is in northeast Seoul. I’m wondering if the Kims sort of live near there. It is hilly and has some old “villas.” 

    N Seoul Tower

    Towards the end, there’s this brief shot with the only recognizable Seoul landmark in the film, N Seoul Tower. I’m definitely calling this, saying it’s north of the tower looking south, which does place it closer to Hyewha.

    Please tell me if you know in the comments. I’ll update.

    UPDATE: The long stairs they climb down in the rain and the tunnel are in Buam-dong. A lot of the filming locations for the Kims’ neighborhood are near Chungjeongno Station. Seongbuk-dong has been regularly mentioned as the likely neighborhood the Parks live in. Either way, it’s in very north Seoul, just north of the palaces.

    In fact, we now have a tour that goes there. Check it out

    The Parks

    There are a few notable class cues when Ki-woo gets his first impressions of the Parks. Nathan Park runs an augmented reality tech company, and there’s an article about him in New York. As they say, if you can make it there…

    When taking English classes or going overseas, most students adopt English names, which is why Mr. Park also goes by Nathan and later Ki-woo goes by Kevin and Ki-jung goes by Jessica.

    I don’t know what a “Hybrid Module Map” is, but he got some innovation award for his company, Another Brick. Take whatever you wish with that name. 

    The Parks

    Pets of the Noveau Riche

    Mrs. Park has a lapdog. They have a few little dogs. Pet ownership was almost unheard of outside university areas when I arrived in Korea in 2004. My first year, a friend of mine had this large gorgeous dog. While he was walking it, a man walked across the street and kicked my friend’s dog

    Now we have chains of pet supply shops. Mostly small dogs because of apartment living. It’s been fascinating to watch this cultural shift to shunning pets to embracing them. 

    Random aside. I just found out a friend of mine was university friends with Jo Yeo-jeong, who plays Mrs. Park. Small world.

    English + Foreign Brands = Cosmopolitan

    She implies her daughter Da-hye isn’t a good student. She also implies it doesn’t matter. She’ll get into a good school anyway.

    English itself is a status symbol. Like how nouveau riche Americans think dropping French phrases makes them sophisticated. When I co-hosted an English education radio show, there was a lot of posturing in the message boards about grammar and pronunciation. Petty stuff. It amounted to netizens jostling for status based on their technical English knowledge. 

    The Korean general public knows more English than it shows. One of the reasons Koreans may not speak English to you is fear of being judged and taken down a notch if their grammar isn’t perfect. That’s an uncomfortable subject many will not admit.

    Mrs. Park dropping her phonetically pronounced English phrases were stabs at making her look sophisticated. She’s also impressed by anything western. Even just Ki-woo saying, “Illinois,” impresses her when he’s selling her on hiring “Jessica.”

    Foreign brands, names, and such, emit a cosmopolitan vibe. Even the dog food is Japanese. I could spend a whole series of blog posts on this. It annoyed my wife when we first moved to these nice apartments that one show-offey woman kept bragging about all the stuff, including detergent, her international businessman husband brought from America. 

    We ordered from the U.S.

    Nonetheless, this brought back memories of me tutoring for wealthy families. And yeah, they were all very nice people, like they are in “Parasite.” It’s eerie how similar my past clients were to the Parks.

    The Parks’ and the Kims’ family structures are similar. Two parents, sister, brother. Even though things have been changing, having a male heir was very important. In my old teaching days, I remember a lot of families, especially middle to upper class families, had older daughters and stopped having kids when they got to having a son.

    The University Entrance Exam

    University entrance exam

    Ki-woo’s sample English lesson gives us a glimpse of the notorious Korean university entrance exam–Korea’s SAT. It’s taken in November, and they release the questions and answers in December. The English section always has the most stupidly difficult gotcha questions that even native English speakers would have difficulty with. I bet the test creators copy and paste some dense academic paper and make one word a blank. The test taker must guess which word they left out. 

    It’s ridiculous.

    The Jessica Jingle

    Jessica Jingle | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    All you need to know about this song is that it’s a common children’s song, like “Mary Had a Little Lamb,” that they’re using to memorize “Jessica’s” back story.

    Okay. It’s a nationalistic song about Dokdo, the disputed islands off the east coast. “Dokdo is Our Land.” “Dokdo Uri Ddang 독도우리땅.” My daughter sings it.

    It’s used by children a lot to memorize things. 

    Hot Sauce on Pizza

    Hot sauce on pizza | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    Koreans are surprised to see that people outside Korea generally don’t put hot sauce on their pizza. Or rather, pizza shops don’t offer hot sauce in ketchup packets. The Korean palate craves the sharpness of hot sauce and the astringency of sweet pickles to cut through the greasiness of pizza.

    I loved how clever this was. They connected the pizza box folding job to them later being served by their former boss in the pizza shop to the inspiration to use the pizza hot sauce packet to bloody the tissue to get the housekeeper fired. Long, long con by Bong Joon-ho.

    The Hospital

    the hospital | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    Just a small guess that this looks like the main reception area of Severance Hospital. After my seizure and spine fracture in 2016, I’ve spend a lot of time there, so that waiting area looks familiar. Especially with the airy light. Then again, I’ve been to a hospital in Ilsan that sorta looked like this.

    TRIVIA: Severance was the first modern hospital in Korea. Founded by American missionary doctor Horace N. Allen in the 1890s.

    They mention that Korea has the highest tuberculosis rate in the developed world. That’s true and has been in the news. It’s another way Bong Joon-ho throws the Korean zeitgeist into this film. 

    Braised Ribs

    I’m glad Galbi Jjim got this translation. Other times, it’s called “Stewed Ribs.” Technically, that is true, but the feel of the dish is more braised than stewed. It’s a special occasion dish that takes a long time to cook. If using beef ribs, they’re also expensive. South Korea has some of the highest beef prices in the whole world. Another subtle nod to class difference that Mr. Park craved such a luxury.

    Here’s a video on how to make it.

    The Business Card

    Business cards are big deals in East Asia. Western businesspeople need to learn the proper business card etiquette in this part of the world. If someone hands you their business card, you treat it with respect. Receive it with two hands. Feel the paper and admire it. Note the job title of the person on the card. In a meeting, put it on the table, not in your pocket. Even better, place the business cards in order of status if you’re in a group meeting.

    passing the business card | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    I’m serious.

    High class business card | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    Mr Park comments how the business card is a sign of class. Not only is the design good, it’s printed on thick paper stock. Those types of business cards are pricey to make. Patrick Bateman would be envious.

    Dishwasher

    Dishwasher | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    Even today, most Korean homes don’t have dishwashers or clothes dryers. Ovens are still penetrating the market. Bidets as well. Oh… I love bidets…

    Family Register

    Family Register | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    When Mrs. Park calls the fake agency for a housekeeper, she’s asked for documents, including a family register. Koreans have documentation of their ancestry dating back centuries. My wife’s family goes back to around 700 A.D., and I just recently got entered into the register after ten years of marriage. Asking for the family register shows how ridiculously excessive and elite this agency is. 

    500 University Graduates

    University Graduates | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    Mr. Kim praises that they’re doing well when even “an opening for a security guard attracts 500 university graduates.”

    Recent articles have come out about the over supply of university graduates and how hard it is for graduates to get jobs. 

    Summer

    It’s obvious to anyone not in Korea that all the events take place in summer. Well, they do mention it’s June. But there are other touches I found that signify it. 

    Glamping

    The Parks go glamping. They ain’t camping. No roughing it. There was no serious camping as a past time in Korea until the 2010s. And the camping public when straight into glamping. Being able to go camping in Korea is considered a trendy activity. The Parks are even bringing a BEAM PROJECTOR to go CAMPING!!!

    Peaches

    Our fruits and vegetables can be extremely seasonal. Peaches are only available during a window of June to late July. Sometimes I’ve seen the season only last a couple of weeks.

    Rainy Season

    The rainy season, jangma, hits its peak in July, but I’ve seen it start in June. We haven’t had a bad one in a while, but when it hits, it hits hard. Flooding. And yes, overflowing sewage. 

    Caught a Bouquet

    Ki-jung says she once caught a bouquet for someone she never met. In Korean westernized weddings, everything is done for the photos. It’s as if the Korean idea of a western wedding came from watching Las Vegas weddings on TV. 

    Catching the bouquet is just another photo op. A friend of the bride is chosen ahead of time, and she throws the bouquet to her for the photo. Sometimes it takes a few tries.

    EJ catches a bouquet for her friend | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    Click here for more details about Korean weddings.

    Sis

    Sis | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    To show our bonds, we call each other by familial names. Big sister, big brother, auntie, uncle. You hear girls call their boyfriends “Oppa,” meaning, “Big Brother.” I call the owner at the Two-Two Chicken I frequent “Hyung,” also meaning, “Big Brother.”

    Moon-gwang calls Kim Chung-sook “Unni” here, which offends her for being so familial.

    A little later, Moon-gwang gets on her hands and knees, rubbing her hands. It’s an extreme form of begging for favor. I’ll admit I’ve been in a situation where I’ve done this.

    Bunkers

    Yes, they do exist. For different reasons. But many to hide if North Korea attacked, or even worse, government prosecutors want to do a raid (as she states). There are other bunkers around Korea. There’s one that was built for former dictator Park Chung-hee that’s in Yeouido. There’s a WWII Japanese bunker hidden in plain site next to Gyeonghuigung Palace.

    FUN FACT: Many Seoul subway stations go deep underground because they double as bomb shelters.

    Taiwanese Castella Shops

    Castella shop | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    This is the line that prompted me to make this post. It’s an inside joke Seoul foodies would catch. Castella shops were one of many flash-in-the-pan food trends going through Seoul.

    As with all these trends, many people lost money trying to get rich quick. Usually men forced into early retirement, which is why there are so many fried chicken pubs. Many of these men feel they have two choices: driving taxis or opening a restaurant.

    The most recent trend has been Taiwanese black sugar bubble tea. This summer, there were hour-long waits for this Instagrammy drink. Now the cafes are empty.

    Ram-don (Jjapaguri)

    Jjapaguri  | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    When the Parks cut their trip short and return home, Mrs. Park asks Mrs. Kim to make her some “Jjapaguri.”

    This is a recent junk food creation that came from a TV show that follows celebrity dads as they take care of their kids. One of the dads said his go-to dish was mixing two popular instant noodles together, Chapagetti and Neoguri (pronounced NUH-goo-ree). It’s kind of a Homer Simpson type of dish, but it got popular. 

    Chapagetti is ramen style noodles with black bean sauce. Neoguri is thicker udon style noodles with a spicy seafood flavor. Mrs. Kim, I guess, hadn’t heard of it because she didn’t have a TV to see the program. 

    Mrs. Park wanted it with “sirloin,” which classed it up. That’s the translation. She really says, “Hanoo,” which is high end Korean beef, akin to Kobe. So imagine making something like Honey Boo-Boo’s sketti with lobster. 

    It’s not in the translation, but when Mrs. Park is telling Mrs. Kim to quickly make the noodles, she finishes by saying, “Fighting,” which is a kind of cheer.

    It’s an easy dish to make, and you can get the ingredients at most Asian and Korean grocery stores. It’s quite salty. I had it the other night at a bar during a BBQ tour. We ate the whole thing.

    Stress Positions

    stress positions | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    This is an old-fashioned way to punish children. Have them kneel or stand with their arms up.

    Moon-gwang then impersonates the famous North Korean newscaster we always see.

    Saeng Cream Cake

    Mrs. Park talks about when Da-song was traumatized by the “ghost.” He saw the ghost when we went down to get some Saeng Cream Cake. It’s a popular cake in Korea that uses whipped cream for frosting. Recipe is here.

    In the meantime, Mr. Kim and Geun-se are talking about Geun-se’s life in the bunker. He talks about how it’s home. SO MANY DETAILS in these shots that I’ll have to pause and pause to catch them all. I particularly found it funny the stack of used condom wrappers on a spike with two hopeful unused ones.

    Jangma

    The floods hit. The Kims escape. Some say this is a little too on the nose, but so what. It showed the Kim’s going down and down the hills of Seoul to their half-basement. The trickle down of the rich’s filth reaching them. In old poorer areas, you see the spaghetti tangle of utility cables.

    tangled wires | Cultural Details You Missed in "Parasite"

    I’ve been in floods like this. In 2011, many of us were trapped in a neighborhood after a mudslide blocked all exits. Cars were floating and all.

    The Birthday Party

    Everything went to shit, as you know, for the Kims. The Jangma rains flooded their apartment as they narrowly escaped being caught. This isn’t a cultural point but some have been surprised about the ending. Pay attention to the wording used when Mr. Kim is helping Mrs. Park shop for Da-song’s birthday party in shops his family would never venture. She talks about how refreshing and cleansing the rain is, when we know how devastating it was to the Kim family. How the rich viewed the rain contrasted so sharply from how Mr. Kim’s class viewed it. 

    “The sky’s so blue and no pollution.” <–we do have pollution issues in Seoul

    That’s when the knife struck down in his mind and permanently split him from the Parks. 

    Note that all the food and drinks they prepare for the party are foreign–pasta, gratin, salmon steak. The Korean elite, especially the nouveau riche, shun Korean foods and drinks when they want to impress. 

    Table Arrangements

    Mrs. Park wanted the birthday table arrangements to mimic Admiral Yi’s crane formation in defeating the Japanese navy–back in the Imjin Wars of 1592. 

    One could REALLY be reaching out on a limb when she says Da-song’s tent is the Japanese warship. There have been accusations many times that South Korea’s current elite has ties to collaborators during the Japanese colonial period of the 20th century. Eh–forget I said it.

    The Cars

    cars | cultural details in parasite

    Any car that is not Korean is considered luxurious. Mini Coops, Mercedes. When the guests arrive, one arrives in a black taxi, which is the most expensive taxi out there.

    The Ending

    I don’t have any more subtle cultural notes for the jarring ending. Other than this movie really portrays Seoul well without even showcasing a single landmark. That’s what Seoul is in my opinion. It’s like Los Angeles– a city with a feel to it that doesn’t need landmarks. A living breathing creature.

    One Final Note

    Don’t be the daughter of actor Song Kang-ho in any movie. They tend to die.

    This post has gone through many edits and additions thanks to our amazing community.Special thanks to William Cho, Kent Matsuoka, Eugene Whong, Jieun Park, Andy Kim, Shawn Morrissey, Sam Henderson, Steven Ward, Rob Ouwehand, Karl Mamer, and Hayne Kim for helping with the editing.

  • Review: Kokoro Bento, Bukchon Village, Seoul

    Review: Kokoro Bento, Bukchon Village, Seoul

    On our first full day in Seoul on a 10-day trip to Korea in mid-May, hubby and I spent a good part of the afternoon wandering the streets and alleys of Bukchon Hanok village. My goal was to find the 한옥 hanok (traditional Korean house) featured in the Korean TV drama Personal Taste (개인의 취향). And I also found personally intriguing tastes in an unexpected place.

    TammyattheentranceofYeorangchewhichwastheoutsidesetforSanggojaeinquotPersonalTaste zps7718c8301
    Tammy was relieved to finally find a hanok named “Yeorangche” in the Bukchon neighborhood of Seoul. It was the outside set for the “Sanggojae” house in the TV drama “Personal Taste.” (Jeff Quackenbush photo)

    After all that meandering, mostly uphill, I worked up quite an appetite. As we were walking back toward the Anguk subway station, my eyes fixed on the sidewalk sandwich-board visual menu for Kokoro Bento. Rather than served on a typical plate or in a box, these bento came in what appeared to my California wine country–trained eyes to be miniature wine half-barrels.

    Hubby taunted me, “We didn’t come all the way to Korea to eat Japanese food!” But I convinced him to make an exception.

    Beside, my mobile phone was running on 10 percent battery power and also needed 밥 bap (literally, rice, i.e., food). I hoped the restaurant had an electrical plug in the pubic area to feed my phone.

    We got there just before 5 p.m. on a weekday, so we were the only people in the restaurant at the time. We were able to choose seats at the bar in front of the large window overlooking the village’s scenic main street to get nice natural-light food photos. Then we moved to a booth seat next to an electrical outlet.

    Kudos for letting us plug in our dying phones.

    fish custard
    The meal began with a soothing small bowl of fish custard. (Jeff Quackenbush photo)

    The surprise appetizer was a fish-flavored egg custard garnished with a cooked gingko nut (in hubby’s bowl) and a cooked edamame bean (in mine). Both had a colorful slice of Japanese fish cake garnish. The custard flavor was delicate and the texture, smooth. Both orders also came with a side of miso soup.

    waygu beef bento
    The waygu beef bento was so full of stuff, you can’t see the rice but it’s in there. (Jeff Quackenbush photo)

    I order the grilled waygu bento. It came with pickle radish, little acorn jellies, potato croquette, 김밥 kimbap (sushi), 삼각주먹밥 samgak joomukbap (sticky rice shaped into triangles with seasoning and vegetables; called onigiri in Japanese), carrot, seaweed salad, and an egg omelet. All of this covered a modest bed of steamed rice. (₩14,000, about $12.45)

    The waygu beef in the bento was grilled just right. Very simple, yet very good.

    curry bento
    The chicken curry bento had just enough rice to soak up all the curry-ness. (Jeff Quackenbush photo)

    Hubby got the chicken curry with pickled radish, sliced carrots, acorn jelly and garnished with microgreens. The curry had mild spiciness and had a flavor akin to Ottogi curry, only better. (₩6,900, about $6.13)

    Kokoro Bento in Seoul’s Gahoe-dong

    종로구 재동 27-1 2nd floor (가회동점)
    Hours: 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.
    Phone: +82 2-763-3313
    Website: www.kokorobento.com
    Directions: The best way to get there is to take the subway to Anguk station (안국역 on the orange line). From station exit 2, walk north on Donguk-gil toward Bukchon Hanok Village. The restaurant will be at the corner of Dokguk-gil and Bukchon-gil on the left side of the street.

  • BCD Tofu House – Los Angeles

    BCD Tofu House – Los Angeles

    BCD Tofu HouseBukchang-dong (or BCD) Tofu House has been one of the most popular Korean restaurants for years. I believe it’s one of those rare Korean restaurants that was born in America and made its way back to the Motherland, Korea. They have 15 locations in and around the Los Angeles region, New York, New Jersey, Seattle, and Seoul.

    The BCD Tofu House was how most Los Angelinos in the late 1990’s and early 2000’s learned about Korean food. For the non-Koreans, the concept of ordering one main dish and have it accompanied by various side dishes was a big treat.

    Non-GMO Soy Tofu at BCD Tofu House

    I always try to make it a point to visit BCD Tofu House whenever I’m in Los Angeles or the surrounding regions. They serve some of the best 순두부찌개 Soft Tofu Stew and I know the ingredients are 100% legit. The House brand tofu is made with Non-GMO organic soy bean tofu. The seafood/beef bone broth and the various banchan side dishes are made without MSG. I can trust this place.

    BCD Tofu House Menu

    As far as the price is concerned, it’s very fair. A bit on the cheap side, especially those Soon Tofu Combos. I would highly recommend the Pork Bulgogi and Soon Tofu combo, but the bibimbap combo ain’t half bad either!

    The spread before the main dish

    On this occasion, we ended up ordering the 게장 Blue Crab in Spicy Marinade, 돼지불고기 Spicy Pork Bulgogi, and 김치 순두부 Kimchi Soon Tofu. Of course, we got the mixed grain rice, which is optional at no extra cost. Soon after the order is received, the waitress ajummas brings out your rice and banchans. Unlike most restaurants, BCD starts you off with 굴비구이 pan fried young yellow fish. All the banchan served has good flavor, but the yellow fish and spicy pickled clams/squid are just work of art!

    Spicy Pork BulgogiThe Spicy Pork Bulgogi is not too spicy, not too sweet, and has the right amount of flavor. The meat itself is very tender and the marinade/sauce is not overpowering. Very good!

    Crab in Spicy MarinadeI’m not a crab fan, but for the crab lovers and/or many other Korean food lovers, this stuff is known as 밥도둑 – aka rice thief. You can ask your Korean friends about the meaning of that term or you may leave us a comment below.

    Kimchi Soon Tofu StewKimchi Soft Tofu Stew… Quite possibly the second favorite comfort food among Korean people. At least for me, it is…

    Be sure to visit BCD Tofu House at any of their numerous locations. From the menu, price, food quality, cleanliness, to the restaurant design, this is a place that I can proudly refer to anyone who is looking for a genuine Korean dining experience. Without any of that ‘luxury’ or some faux high concept Korean food that they are beginning to roll out, the BCD Tofu House is exemplary. Please visit http://www.bcdtofu.com to find the most convenient location to you or your traveling destination.

    Bukchang-dong (BCD) Tofu House

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  • Is American soju 'watered down'?

    Is American soju 'watered down'?

    Twitter makes it so much easier to “eavesdrop” on conversations of random strangers, which I do via a list of search terms related to Korean cuisine. For every person who asks a question, many others have the same one bouncing around their minds. Even random comments that don’t ask a question, but should ask a question, sometimes catch my eye.

    SylviaKoss tweeted to Steven Chappell, aka thegrammarnazi:

    #Soju can be sold in Calif. and New York, but it can only contain 25% alcohol or less. In #Japan and #Korea it contains 45%.

    Mr. Chappell replied,

    @SylviaKoss Then it’s not Soju. It’s watered-down Soju. #Soju #Japan #Korea

    sojusharing31
    Is that shared soju experience the same in Seoul as it is in LA or NYC? (Leana photo, creative commons license, flickr)

    Yet neither asked, “Why is the alcohol content of soju imported into the United States lower?” It’s another one of those answers that doesn’t fit well into a 140-character tweet. It has to do with whether you consider soju and Japanese sake as a rice wine or as distilled alcohol. (Some soju is made from sweet potatoes, tapioca and grains in place of or in addition to rice.)

    The U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau considers soju a distilled alcoholic beverage. In August, a 42-year-old Virginia soju importer pleaded guilty to smuggling, money laundering and tax evasion for claiming soju was “rice wine,” avoiding nearly $102,000 in excise taxes on $2 million worth of shipments. Under U.S. law, distilled spirits are taxed at $13.50 per proof gallon, while wine is taxed at $1.07, $1.57 or $3.15 a gallon, depending on alcohol content.

    But in 1998, the California Legislature gave soju the same status as beer and wine. The state’s Alcoholic Beverage Control Act Section 23398.5 limits what can be sold as “soju” under the more permissive on-premise beer and wine liquor license. It can’t have more than 24 percent of alcohol by volume. That’s the basis of Koss’ tweet to Chappell.

    Additionally, soju “wine” must be made in Korea, so there’s no such thing as an American soju. Even Ku soju, one of the most marketing-savvy soju brands, is imported from Korean liquor chaebol (conglomerate) Doosan.

    New York state adopted similar provisions in 2002.

    Korean food culture is closely tied with consumption of alcoholic beverages, largely soju, 북분자주 bukbunjajoo (blackberry alcohol) and beer. Sharing a meal with friends without alcohol is virtually anathema, absent religious abstention.

    California and New York both have large Korean-American communities and lobbied hard for the relaxed legal definition of soju. That allows Korean restaurants to sell soju without the bureaucratic burden of procuring a hard-liquor license first.

    But there was a catch. Producers had to reduce the alcohol content in U.S.-bound bottles from 45 percent to 24 percent, just a little more than the kick of sweet, fortified wines such as Port.

    After these laws passed, non-Korean restauranteurs discovered they could also take advantage of the loophole. In California, a hard-liquor permit can cost $6,000 to $12,000. To avoid those high costs, restauranteurs set their sights on soju as a less expensive alternative to jumping through all the hoop necessary to obtain a spirits license. They could sell cocktails made with soju instead of tequila or vodka.

    Rather than “watered down,” U.S. soju’s lower alcohol content and lower caloric content of soju cocktails — about half the alcohol of vodka — is a marketable selling point for many bars and restaurants.

    Keep in mind when you travel between the two countries. Several bottles of “American soju” don’t pack the same punch as the equivalent volume of Korean soju. Those two or three bottles of soju that leave you blissfully buzzed in L.A. might leave you puking your guts up on the sidewalks of Seoul.