Tag: tour tips

  • What Cultural Etiquette Should You Be Aware of When Visiting Seoul?

    What Cultural Etiquette Should You Be Aware of When Visiting Seoul?

    Visiting Seoul? Excellent choice. You’ll find more neon lights than a Las Vegas nightscape and enough Korean BBQ to clog your arteries twice over. But to navigate the city without stepping on toes—or being scolded by an elderly auntie on the subway—you’ll want to brush up on local etiquette. Here’s your crash course, sprinkled with my usual sarcasm and a few indispensable tips.


    1. Respect for Elders: The Age Game

    In Korea, age is more than just a number—it dictates how you address someone and who starts eating first (we’ll get to that). If you’re on public transport and see someone older standing, offer them your seat. It’s common courtesy, and you’ll avoid that piercing ajumma glare you can practically feel in your soul.


    2. Dining Etiquette: Timing, Tools, and Chopstick Taboos

    Enjoy yourself is the best Korean dining etiquette
    • Wait for Elders: Don’t shovel food into your mouth before your oldest dining mate has lifted a spoon.
    • Watch Those Chopsticks: Traditionally, sticking chopsticks upright in rice is frowned upon. Younger folks might shrug it off, but older Koreans may cringe. Want to keep the peace? Lay ‘em down on the rest, not upright in your bibimbap.
    • Rubbing Bamboo Chopsticks: Most of the time, you’ll get the challenging metal chopsticks. In cases where you get bamboo chopsticks, refrain from that weird habit some people do of rubbing them together after removing them from their paper sleeve. That’s implying that the restaurant has given you inferior chopsticks.
    • Watch Your Rice: Even though we share a lot at the Korean table, your rice is yours. Do not let your rice mingle with the soup and side dishes you’re all sharing from.
    • More informal than you think: That all said, Korea ain’t Japan. We’re not all obsessed with table etiquette. You can eat any dish in any order. You can assemble your lettuce wrap however you want. It’s all about having fun and socializing.

    3. Public Behavior: Subway Sermons and Street Snacking

    • Quiet on Public Transport: Subways in Seoul can be busy, but they’re not always loud. Keep your phone calls discreet, and refrain from talking to your friends loudly. You may see an elderly person loudly proclaiming into their wallet-style phones, but they get a pass.
    • Street Eating: Nibbling while walking isn’t as big a faux pas as it used to be. But devouring a two-tiered birthday cake as you stroll down Hongdae? That might raise some eyebrows.

    4. Shoes Off Indoors: Larry David’s Worst Nightmare

    In many Korean homes and certain restaurants, shoes come off at the door. If you’re the kind of person who’s paranoid about mismatched socks or feet that might spark a tirade from Larry David, carry a spare pair. But fear not—everyone else is also showing off their socks, so you’re in good company.


    5. Drinking Culture: How to Pace Yourself

    Korean drinking etiquette
    • When the Glass Runs Dry: An empty soju glass is a flashing neon sign that screams, “Refill me!” If you’d rather not keep chugging, leave a sip in your glass. No glass should be empty while others are full—especially in the presence of elders.
    • Respectful Drinking: If someone older pours you a drink, accept with both hands. Turn slightly away when you sip if they’re sitting right next to you. They’ll appreciate the gesture, and you’ll look like you’ve been here before.

    6. Business Cards: The Old-School Calling Card Still Matters

    Sure, the world’s gone digital, but Korea loves a good face-to-face exchange of business cards. Bring a stack—don’t just rely on your phone’s QR code. In meetings with multiple people, lay the cards out in front of you in the order of hierarchy (the big boss’s card at the top), so you remember who’s who. It’s respectful and doubles as a cheat sheet for names and positions.


    7. Tipping: When to Drop the Cash

    Traditionally, tipping isn’t a thing in Korea—most locals will try to hand your money right back if you leave extra on the table. That said:

    • Tip Jars: If you see one on the counter at a coffee shop or a food stall, go for it.
    • Tour Guides & Services: Guides typically won’t refuse a tip. If you had a great experience, showing some monetary appreciation won’t cause an international incident, though it’s also not expected.

    8. Temple Etiquette: Dress Modestly, Speak Softly

    Seoul’s temples can be tranquil escapes from the city’s mania. Dress to cover shoulders and knees, keep your voice low, and check if photos are allowed—monks aren’t your personal TikTok content. Acting respectfully here is a simple courtesy, and you might just find some genuine peace (or an excellent meditative Instagram shot).


    9. Taboos & Quirks: Red Ink, Hand Gestures, and More

    • Red Ink: Don’t write someone’s name in red; it’s traditionally used for the deceased.
    • Beckoning: Call someone over with your palm down, not up. Think “gentle wave,” not “come here, kitty.”
    • Head Patting: Not common, especially if the person is older. Resist the urge to ruffle hair like a puppy.

    Final Thoughts

    The rules might seem like a lot, but most Koreans won’t tear their hair out if you slip up. A little effort—like offering your seat to an elder or handing over a business card respectfully—can go a long way in showing you care about local culture. Remember: keep your glass partially full to avoid that endless soju train, and pop your shoes off at the door if the venue requires it (just pray your socks pass the Larry David sniff test).

    Keep these tips in mind, and you’ll blend into Seoul’s energy without creating an “I-wish-I’d-known” moment. Safe travels, enjoy the neon nights and sizzling BBQ, and bow just enough to score that extra bit of local respect!

  • Overrated Tourism Spots in Korea: Looking Beyond the Hype

    Overrated Tourism Spots in Korea: Looking Beyond the Hype

    Korea’s tourism scene is on fire. K-pop. K-dramas. K-something. Everyone wants a slice of Hallyu, so the government, media, and countless “parachute influencers” keep pushing the same handful of tourist overrated tourism spots—whether they’re actually any good or not. Problem is, they’re often about as satisfying as cotton candy: sweet, airy, and completely hollow. Here’s a breakdown of some notoriously overrated spots, complete with scores (1 = “Don’t bother,” 10 = “Must do”), plus better alternatives to help you experience more than just crowds and overpriced street food.

    Is Starfield Library in Seoul COEX overrated

    Fish vs. Ducks: Why These Spots Miss the Mark

    Ever wondered why some attractions feel so phony? It’s because many local tourism promoters—our “fish”—grow up in the same pond and don’t realize the rest of the world has water, too. Then you have the “ducks,” i.e., foreigners or worldly Koreans who go from pond to pond and see what’s truly special. Unfortunately, the “fish” keep building or pushing these carbon-copy attractions, convinced they’ll wow everyone. Spoiler: They don’t.


    1. Nami Island

    • Type: Domestic, Artificial
    • Score: 4
    • Authenticity: 3
    • Good for: K-drama fanatics, day trips with kids
    Nami Island is very overrated

    Yes, Winter Sonata was filmed here. Yes, you’ve probably seen it in every travel brochure, even though it’s now older than many of the visitors to Nami Island. It’s an artificially created island and feels like a curated theme park. Full of photo-ops and Instagram Couples™ awkwardly riding tandem bikes, it’s decent if you’ve already done everything else in Korea. Most first-time visitors leave scratching their heads: “So…that’s it?”

    Alternative: Ganghwa Island

    If you want actual history and real cultural significance, Ganghwa Island beats the pants off Nami. It’s massive, authentic, and even offers glimpses of North Korea. Better scenery. Better food. Fewer cringe selfie bikes.


    2. Myeongdong

    • Type: Shopping District
    • Score: 4
    • Authenticity: 2
    • Good for: Checking off your “I was in Seoul” shopping list

    Once upon a time, Myeongdong was the place to shop. Now it’s an overpriced labyrinth of street food stalls that all serve the same tteokbokki. Locals have mostly fled, leaving behind just tourist-trap cosmetics shops and Zara stores. Why would you travel all the way to Korea to go to the same stores you have at your local shopping center? It’s not like these items are manufactured in Korea, giving you a discount.

    Alternative: Dongmyo Flea Market

    Instead of battling crowds in Myeongdong, head east to Dongmyo. It’s a sprawling flea market that’s part thrift paradise, part living museum of random Korean antiques. Think vintage leather jackets from the ‘80s next to dusty LPs and mountains of ajumma pants. You never know what you’ll find, and that’s half the fun. More importantly, it still feels real—no cloned cosmetic shops or tourist-pandering stalls in sight. If you want an adventure (and bargains), Dongmyo is the treasure hunt you didn’t know you needed.


    3. N Seoul Tower

    • Type: City Landmark
    • Score: 5
    • Authenticity: 4
    • Good for: Sweeping city views, fighting crowds
    seoul architecture
    Beautiful architecture building N Seoul tower on namsan mountain landmark of Seoul City in South Korea

    Nothing screams “tourist” like the lines to get up that cramped cable car. The views are nice, but you’ll be elbowing hordes of people who all had the same idea. The famous “locks of love” area is 99% hype, 1% actual romance.

    Alternative: Naksan Park

    Naksan Park

    For panoramic cityscapes without being squashed by fellow travelers, Naksan Park is your jam. Bonus points for seeing a section of the Seoul City Wall, which is both historic and scenic.


    4. Gangnam

    • Type: Area
    • Score: 6
    • Authenticity: 5
    • Good for: Nightclubs, fine dining, pretending it’s 2012 “Gangnam Style”

    Gangnam is the epitome of commercialized modern Seoul—fancy coffee shops, major chain stores, and zero traditional charm. High rent forces out all the mom-and-pop gems that give an area its soul.

    Alternative: Hongdae

    If Gangnam is the jocks and cheerleaders, Hongdae is the freaks and geeks. Younger, artsy, borderline chaotic—and way more fun. Street performances, unique cafes, and quirky boutiques make for genuine local experiences.


    5. Starfield Library

    • Type: Instagram Bait
    • Score: 2
    • Authenticity: 1
    • Good for: Fake books, fake grandeur, reeling in “likes”
    Starfield Library's fake books

    “A fake library filled with fake books for fake people.”

    That’s no exaggeration. This monstrosity in COEX Mall is mostly styrofoam props. The “library” is a remodeled food court that was made only for the ‘Gram. Seriously, why would you go to Korea to go to a fake mall library and–read books in Korean?

    It’s the poster child for how Seoul tries to build a tourist attraction out of absolutely nothing.

    Alternative: KOTE

    Tucked away in an old hanok building in Insa-dong, KOTE has real books, a wine and coffee bar, and actual local soul. Explore the art galleries, soak in the vibe, and skip the manufactured mall experience.


    6. Petit France

    • Type: Domestic, Artificial
    • Score: 2
    • Authenticity: 0
    • Good for: People who’ve never been to Europe (and want the worst intro possible)
    Petit France Korea

    Why you’d fly to Korea just to see a fake French village is beyond me. If you want a taste of real Europe, hop on a plane—not a bus to Gapyeong.

    Alternative: Yongin Folk Village

    If you’re going fake, at least go Korean fake. Yongin Folk Village is still artificial, but it’s historically grounded in Korean tradition, and there’s actual charm if you let it work its magic.


    7. Rail Bikes

    • Type: Domestic
    • Score: 5
    • Authenticity: 2
    • Good for: Leg day, scenic selfies

    Korea turned old train tracks into pedal-carts. Sounds cute until 15 minutes in, when you’re sweating profusely, wondering, “Is this ride over yet?” Great for domestic tourism, but not exactly a deep cultural experience.


    8. Seoullo 7017

    • Type: City Park
    • Score: 5
    • Authenticity: 4
    • Good for: Snagging a couple photos, short walks

    A former overpass turned into a pedestrian walkway, meant to evoke New York’s High Line. It’s somewhat charming, but it’s newly developed, so it lacks that organic vibe. Give it another decade, maybe.

    Alternatives: Cheonggyecheon Stream & Gyeongui Line Forest

    • Cheonggyecheon started off as a concrete trickle but is blossoming into an actual scenic waterway over time. Make sure to get picks of “Bob” the Heron, who is very photogenic.
    • Gyeongui Line Forest Park is a gorgeous strip of greenery, artsy cafes, and quirky restaurants built along old tracks. Unlike Seoullo, there’s actual shade!

    9. Factory Outlets

    • Type: Shopping
    • Score: 1
    • Authenticity: 1
    • Good for: Seeing how outlets in Korea can be pricier than mainstream shops

    If your idea of fun is paying import taxes on Nike gear, be my guest. But trust me, real Koreans aren’t flocking here for deals. They’re too busy saving their won.


    10. Insa-dong Shopping Malls (Ssamziegil & Hello Insa-dong)

    • Type: Shopping
    • Score: 2
    • Authenticity: 5 (for the area, not the malls)
    • Good for: Poop bread and flea-market rummaging

    The old Insa-dong was a wonderland of winding alleys. Developers came in, bulldozed them, and built these malls. Ssamziegil has a few interesting craft shops, but mostly it’s a carnival of novelty socks. Hello Insa-dong is chain restaurant central.

    Alternative: The Alleys of Insa-dong

    While they still exist, get lost in the labyrinth of side streets. You might stumble upon hidden teahouses, artisan workshops, or the Knife Gallery—which is exactly what it sounds like.


    11. Gwangjang Market

    • Type: Traditional Market
    • Score: 6
    • Authenticity: 8
    • Good for: First-timers, famous mung bean pancakes, beef tartare

    A must-see that’s become an overcrowded “tourist mosh pit.” The food is legit, especially the mung bean pancakes (bindaetteok) and raw beef (yukhoe), but it’s typically elbow-to-elbow.

    The Netflix Lady at Gwangjang Market

    Bonus: The Netflix Lady

    She’s got lines a mile long for her noodles. Newsflash: everyone else sells the same noodles. Locals just shrug and get them from the lady with the shorter wait.

    Alternative: Mangwon Market

    Less hype, more real-life. Locals buying groceries, stalls selling crispy fried chicken, and a fraction of the tourists.


    Beyond the Tourist Traps

    Explore Local Neighborhoods

    Try Seochon Village or Ikseon-dong Hanok Village. You get a heady mix of old hanok architecture and modern creativity, minus the forced “Korea 101” vibe.

    Discover Cultural Hotspots

    Check out Oil Tank Culture Park, repurposed industrial tanks turned into artsy communal spaces. It’s as cool (and random) as it sounds.

    Embrace Nature in the City

    Seonyudo Park—an island in the Han River with landscaped gardens and scenic trails. Finally, some peace in this megacity.

    Immerse in Traditional Culture

    Look for less touristy hanbok rental experiences, or tea ceremonies in smaller teahouses, or learn Korean calligraphy. If you want authenticity, you won’t find it in the big shiny complexes.

    Dive into Local Art Scenes

    Skip the tacky Trickeye Museums and check out smaller galleries in Insadong, or even the occasional event at Dongdaemun Design Plaza—still touristy, but at least the architecture is mind-bending.


    Conclusion

    Look, Korea has so much real, mesmerizing culture—great food, jaw-dropping scenery, bizarrely entertaining neighborhoods—but the mainstream travel media, government, and a parade of influencers push these overhyped spots they assume foreigners want to see.

    The real soul of Korea isn’t at a fake library or a K-drama theme park. It’s in the local markets, the hidden alleys, the battered old hanok teahouses, the weird experimental art festivals, and the random neighborhood restaurants serving killer kimchi stew. So step off the well-trodden path and embrace your inner “duck.” You’ll leave with stories more authentic than any heavily-edited Instagram reel can promise.

    Take a chance on lesser-known neighborhoods. Talk to locals. Explore on foot. Trust me. You’ll find a version of Korea that’s a thousand times more compelling than a day wasted on a swinging bridge that leads nowhere.

    Safe travels, and remember: nothing says “I get you, Korea” like a big bowl of something spicy from a market where the menu isn’t written in English.

  • 14 Must-eat Korean Foods In Seoul and Where To Eat

    14 Must-eat Korean Foods In Seoul and Where To Eat

    I’ve been writing about Korean food in Seoul since 2004 at ZenKimchi. I’ve consulted Anthony BourdainAndrew ZimmernLonely PlanetConde Nast Traveler, The Travel Channel, and other world media in finding the must eat Korean foods.
    Here’s the ultimate list. These are foods you can find specific restaurants for. I’m not including foods that you’d find as side dishes, like Japchae and Kimchi.

    Beginner’s Quest

    This list is getting so hyuuuge that I’m dividing it into Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced. Beginner is if you’re new to Korean food, or if it’s your first time in Korea. These are also the foods that are crowd pleasers–the greatest hits. The Top-40 music of Korean food.

    Korean BBQ

    Korean BBQ - a must eat korean food

    The first must-eat Korean food that springs to mind. Cooking meat at your table and wrapping it in lettuce. There’s something primal about that. Korean BBQ is all about community and fun. In Korea itself, pork is king. Beef costs so much it’s for special occasions.

    Where to eat Korean BBQ

    It’s hard to screw up Korean BBQ in Korea. The competition is so fierce that mediocre places don’t hang out long.

    Mapo Jeong Daepo 마포정대포

    Mapo Jeong Daepo 마포정대포

    My go-to place is still Jeong Daepo in the Mapo neighborhood, near Gongdeok Station. The whole area is full of BBQ aromas. Most all the restaurants in that area are great. We made sure Anthony Bourdain went there the last time he was in Seoul. It’s the main place we go to on The Ultimate Korean BBQ Night Out.

    Hongik Sutbul Galbi Sogeum Gwi 홍익숯불갈비소금구

    Hongik Sutbul Galbi Sogeum Gwi 홍익숯불갈비소금구

    I don’t know how long this will hold out against the pressure of gentrification. It’s a packed, packed, packed place. They give your meat a pre-cook over strong fire before finishing it at your table.

    Chicken & Beer

    Fried Chicken and Beer

    “Chimaek” (Chicken + Maekju | beer) got its start in the early 1970s. It’s now such a great must-eat Korean food institution that we have more chicken restaurants than there are McDonald’s in the entire world. There’s something about this combination. Strangely, it works well with watered down Korean beers–preferably Cass. I swear.
    I’m more a fan of classic styles. Recent styles of fried chicken lean more to the American style–thick flour-based crust. I like the thin starch-based coating with the aromatic spicies.

    Where to eat Chicken & Beer

    I’d almost say it’s hard to go wrong, but it is. Chicken hofs are neighborhood haunts. There’s no exclusive I-gotta-try-this chicken pub with a line out the door. In fact, if there’s a line out the door stay far away from it. My rule of thumb is this. If it’s full of beautiful young women taking Insta-selfies, it’s not good chicken. If it’s grease stained and full of middle-aged men who look like life has kicked them in the teeth, great chicken.

    Two-Two Chicken 둘둘치킨

    You can’t go wrong with Two-Two (pictured above). You’ll likely be the youngest person in any of its locations. It’s a franchise, but each venue acts like a mom-and-pop shop. The basic recipe and yangnyeom (spicy sweet garlic sauce) are the same, but they put their own spins on the sauces. We include a stop at a Two-Two on our Authentic Korean Chicken & Beer Experience. They’re outside Gongdeok Station, and the couple who runs it is great and welcoming. I want them to get more love.

    Chicken Baengi 치킨뱅이

    They also do it classic style. Get their chicken 3-ways: fried, sauced, and garlic. Then go for the pa dalk, boneless chicken thighs on top of dressed ribbons of green onions. My favorite location is run by two ladies on the north of the main strip of Hongdae. Go out Hongik University Station, exit 7 (Holiday Inn) and head due south a couple of blocks. It’ll be on your right.

    Nurungji Tongdalk 누룽지통닭

    Nurungji Tongdalk 누룽지통닭

    A new brand, they don’t do fried. Chicken is spit roasted over wood and served on sizzling platters of crispy rice. We also go to this on the new Authentic Korean Chicken & Beer Experience. The ones near Gongdeok and Sookmyung Women’s University kill.

    Locations?

    Since these are franchises, your best bet is to copy and paste the Korean names above into Google Maps, Naver Map, or Kakao Map.

    Kimchi Jjigae

    Kimchi Jjigae 김치찌개

    Okay, you fans of “Always Be My Maybe.” This stew sits on the pantheon of comfort foods, next to macaroni and cheese. It is so perfect on a chilly Seoul night. You want it chock full of tofu and pork. The canned tuna version is also quite good, though I like it better when it’s served at a drinking establishment in a beat-up tin pot.

    Where to eat Kimchi Jjigae

    Most Korean diners, like Kimbap Cheonguk, will have it on the menu. There are few places that make it the star of their menus, except…

    Omori Jjigae 오모리찌개전문점

    Omori Jjigae 오모리찌개전문점

    Go down to Jamsil, across the lake from Lotte World, and up to the second floor for this. It’s a chain, but this is the flagship store. Go to the second floor. The first floor is for black bean noodles. Here, you can get 3-year-old Kimchi Jjigae. You’d be surprised at how subtle and smooth it tastes.

    Gwanghwamun Jip 광화문집

    Gwanghwamun Jip 광화문집

    Tiny, tiny, tiny place near Gyeongbokgung Palace. They have two items, a very tart pork kimchi jjigae and gyeran mari (rolled omelet). Get both.

    Bibimbap

    Jeonju Bibimbap

    (Gogung Jeonju Bibimbap)

    The king of rice bowls. There are many kinds of bibimbap. There’s the dolsot sizzling kind. There’s the fancy Jeonju bibimbap. There’s your basic Korean diner bibimbap served in a plastic bowl with a fried egg.
    Contrary to what you may have had outside Korea, it doesn’t always come sizzling, and it doesn’t always come with an egg. There are infinite combinations.

    Where to eat Bibimbap

    Like Kimchi Jjigae, it’s available in most diners. There is a chain called Bon Bibimbap, the same as Bon Juk. It’s just fine and dandy. But if you want to go for something more serious…

    Jeonju Yuhalmeoni Bibimbap 전주유할머니비빔밥

    Jeonju Yuhalmeoni Bibimbap 전주유할머니비빔밥

    Respect, respect, respect. Grandmother knows how to make good bibimbap. This place has been around for over 50 years. Simple menu. Get the bibimbap and the Kongnamul Gukbap (Bean Sprout Soup).

    Gogung 고궁

    I love Gogung (pictured above). The original location is in Jeonju. It’s a case of franchising out and collapsing. It’s hard to find a Gogung in Seoul anymore. Thankfully, there is one in the Starfield Mall in Gangnam. This is classic refined royal Jeonju bibimbap served in brass bowls.

    Naengmyeon

    Naengmyeon 냉면

    Chilled. Buckwheat. Noodles.

    It’s in my top ten of favorite Korean foods. All the chilled buckwheat noodle dishes are. Naengmyeon itself comes from North Korea. The classic Pyongyang style is light with a clean sophisticated broth. Can you believe that before the 20th century, northern Korea was known for more fancy artistocratic cuisine than the south?

    Naengmyeon always hits the spot at the end of a barbecue meal, with a few squirts of vinegar and hot mustard from the bottles sitting next to you. That may be why places like Woo Lae Oak are famous for the naengmyeon. Fancy BBQ must follow with refined naengmyeon.
    There are usually two types available, noodles in soup (mul naengmyeon), and noodles mixed with a spicy gochujang sauce (bibim naengmyeon). Of course, there are many more varieties, like there are of bibimbap. Baby steps.

    Where to eat Naengmyeon

    If you’re in Korea for a short while, just order a bowl at the end of your BBQ dinner. The one pictured above was just a W5,000 (~$4.25 USD) lunch special at a little BBQ joint near my regular jogging route. Otherwise, try these places.

    Woo Lae Oak 우래옥

    Woo Lae Oak 우래옥

    Famous, famous place. Almost too famous for being too famous. I like it, but it feels a bit stodgy. It’s where you take your grandma after church. The prices are premium, but it’s worth it for the naengmyeon.

    Dongmu Bapsang (Comrade’s Table) 둥무밥상

    Dongmu Bapsang (Comrade's Table) 둥무밥상

    He used to cook for officers in the North Korean army before defecting to the South. Now his cozy shop serves dishes that he misses from home. Yes, definitely eat the naengmyeon here. Also try the soondae sausages.

    Jeongin Myeonok 정인면옥

    2a3de62293de41a891e7fe380835e8df

    Watch out for the lunch lines here. It gets crowded. The naengmyeon is great, but it may also be because it’s one of the few good restaurants in Yeouido.

    Street Food

    When in Asia, tourists want street food. Seoul has good street food, but don’t expect what you’d find in Southeast Asia. Street food in Korea primarily acts as a snack and late night starch filler for an alcohol-laden stomach. Most carts serve the same exact thing. There are variations, but those are in areas that cater to tourists and college students.

    Ddeokbokki Tteokbokki 떡볶이

    Tteokbokki

    Don’t call it “topoki!” That was some hare-brained scheme concocted by a government agency ten years ago. They’re chewy rice cakes in a spicy sauce. I personally think the stuff on the street is sweeter because it’s more suited for kids. Tteokbokki in bricks-and-mortars, like Jaws Food and Mimine (pictured above), tend to be better. Spicier and more savory.

    Oden Eomuk 오댕 어묵

    Odeng/Eomuk

    Fish cakes on sticks soaking in MSG-saturated broth. Just go and grab a stick, brush on a few happy dabs of sauce with the brush Bob Ross style, eat, and pay. The proprietor counts the number of sticks you have left over.

    Hot Ba 홋바

    Hot Ba

    Or Hot Bar? It’s fish dough shaped into logs on sticks and deep fried like a corn dog. In fact, they come with hot dogs and other ingredients in them. That’s one of my favorite street foods.

    Twigim 퇴김

    Twigim

    Fried stuff. Usually sweet potatoes, shrimp, sesame leaves. It’s like tempura but heavier.

    Soondae 순대

    Soondae

    The proper romanization is sundae, but I don’t want you to confuse this with ice cream. They’re blood and glass noodle sausages. The traditional version uses rice instead of noodles, but the street version uses the glass ones, giving them a bouncy texture. It’s served with pig liver and offal. What I like to do is make Kim-Tteok-Soon. Mix the Twigim and Soondae together with Tteokbokki sauce. It’s what Harold and Kumar would crave if they lived in Korea.

    Hotteok 호떡

    Hotteok

    Fried dough stuffed with brown sugar, nuts, and other goodies. They are delicious and make great hand warmers. They emerge in high numbers during winter.

    Bungeobbang 붕어빵

    Bungeobbang

    Sweet cakes stuffed with sweet red bean or custard. Another great hand warmer and quite good.

    Gyeranbbang 계란빵

    Gyeranbbang

    Literally, “egg bread.” Sweet pancake batter cooked in a cup like a muffin with an egg cracked inside. Sweet and savory. Protein and carbs. It’s the breakfast you never knew you needed.

    Where to eat Seoul Street Food

    You can get it most anywhere. Here are some areas that have a unique touch.

    Myeong-dong

    It’s one of the few times I’ll say Myeong-dong has better food. The street food scene there is competitive. But Myeong-dong is like Times Square in New York. There are more tourists than locals. It’s here that you’ll find the Frankenstein creations, like lobster with cheese. The Tornado Potato was born here, as well as many street food staples and flashes in the pans.

    Insa-dong

    It’s another touristy area. Here you’ll find the famous Insa-dong Hotteok, which puts a bit of cornmeal in its dough, giving it a super crunchy texture. Other highlights are the fire-grilled chicken on a stick and my beloved egg breads. Insa-dong’s street food scene took a bad hit from both COVID-19’s tourism dearth and the relentless bulldozing to make way for bland shopping malls.

    Hongdae

    Carts with the basics camp outside Hongik University Station, exit 9. Further down, past the buskers, you can find what I call Crazy Street Food Alley. It’s a series of stalls that are always rotating with new street food ideas. It’s like a market research lab throwing everything against the wall to see what sticks.

    Noryangjin Cup Rice Road 컵밥거리

    159367174774 20200703

    Now this is food that is meant to be eaten like a meal. These stands cater to young adults studying for professional exams. The cram schools to help them prepare for these career tests congregate here. Cup Rice Road sprouted as a bunch of carts to feed these poor hungry young professionals-to-be.
    Here’s a map of all the places I’ve mentioned.

    Patbingsu

    Patbingsu 팥빙소

    Dessert! We don’t really have desserts in the Western sense in Korea. We do have this shaved ice treat. The competition each summer with Bingsu makers gets more intense each year.
    It’s a war!
    The goal is to shave ice so perfect it’s fluffy fresh fallen snow. The ice itself usually comes from frozen milk, but I’ve seen other ice sources, including coffee and makgeolli (Korean rice ale).

    Where to eat Patbingsu

    The margins make this lucrative, so everyone is trying to get into the game. Most all bakery chains, like Paris Baguette and Tous Les Jours, get all into this. Most coffee shops do this. There are some places that specialize in it.

    Sulbing 설빙

    Sulbing is a franchise that popped up a few years ago. I wondered how risky such a venture would be–as in, who would order bingsu in winter? But they’ve done well. They’re crowded in the summer. Sulbing specializes in Instagrammy bingsu, and that’s a good thing. They’re showstoppers. Don’t worry about how large they are. Remember they’re just shaved ice. When melted the liquid would fit into a grande Starbucks cup. If you’re traveling with kids this is the treat they’ll remember.
    Since it’s a franchise, just copy and paste 설빙 into your map app of choice to find your closest location.

    Mealtop 밀탑

    Odd name. Odd location. It’s hidden on the 5th floor of Hyundai Department Store in Apgujeong. Well, not really hidden. It takes up a lot of space. But you have to go up a bunch of escalators to get there. They have a big variety of bingsu. What I like is that the portions or smaller, so you can try different flavors in one go. They are starting to franchise out.

  • Discover the Beauty of Springtime in Korea and the Best Cherry Blossoms, Festivals and Tours to Enjoy

    Discover the Beauty of Springtime in Korea and the Best Cherry Blossoms, Festivals and Tours to Enjoy

    Hahoe Village with cherry blossoms

    What Makes Springtime in Korea So Special?

    Springtime in Korea is a magical time of year. With the beautiful cherry blossoms in full bloom and the many exciting festivals, tours, and activities that take place during this season, it’s no wonder why so many people flock to Korea for an unforgettable experience. From sampling delicious Korean food to taking part in traditional festivals, there are plenty of opportunities to soak up the culture and enjoy the breathtaking scenery. Whether you’re looking for a romantic getaway or a fun adventure with friends, springtime in Korea will not disappoint!

    Cherry blossoms

    Cherry Blossoms – Where to Go and What to Expect

    Every spring, the cherry blossoms in Korea come alive with a magical transformation. The Hanami season, or festival of flowers, is an annual event that celebrates the beauty of nature and the joys of life. It’s a time for families and friends to gather together and appreciate the stunning landscape of vibrant colors that blanket Korea’s countryside. From Seoul to Jeju Island, there are plenty of places to experience this breathtaking event. Whether you’re looking for a romantic getaway or an adventure with friends, make sure to take advantage of the incredible scenery during this special time in Korea!

    In 2023, the cherry blossoms are scheduled to start blooming on Jeju Island on March 20th, in Seoul on March 28th, and the northern parts of South Korea in early April. 

    Keep in mind the following caveats:

    • The cherry blossoms tend to go away earlier than the officials predict
    • Nature is a prankster. Many times a rainstorm has barged in during peak blossoming and stripped the trees.

    My tip about cherry blossoms is to avoid the popular places, like Yeouido. They are extremely overcrowded–dangerously so. And there are assholes who shake the trees to shower their girlfriends with blossoms, stripping the trees of their beauty for everyone else.

    Here are some other places to view cherry blossoms in South Korea. They’re listed in the order that they start. Read towards the end for my secret tip you won’t find on any other blog.

    NOTE: This post will be updated with more festivals and detailed information. Subscribe to this post or to our mailing list to get the latest.

    image 1

    Daegu E-World Blossom Picnic

    The fastest cherry blossoms in the country! I don’t know what the advantage of that is, but Korea is always in a rush. This event’s real edge is that it’s best at night. There are lots of photo zones for the Instagrammers. It not only focuses on cherry blossoms. The picnic goes through a gamut of bloomings, ending with tulips. 

    • When: March 18th – April 9th
    • Where: Daegu E-World (map)
    • What to see and do: night time blossoms, photo zones
    • Fees: Park admission (~W45,000)
    • More info: https://eworld.kr/
    image 2

    Jeju Royal Cherry Blossom Festival 

    For the early adopters! Jeju Island is the first location where cherry blossoms come into bloom. 

    • When: late March – early April
    • Where: Jeonnong-ro, Jeju-si and Jangjeon-ri, Aewol
    • What to see and do: look at cherry blossoms
    • More info: https://www.visitjeju.net/en 
    image 3

    Jinhae Cherry Blossom Festival 

    This is the big one with big trees. The entire city of Jinhae gets invaded by cherry blossoms. Jinhae has the famous Yeojwacheon “Romance Bridge,” which is like a tunnel of cherry blossoms.

    • When: March 25th – April 3rd
    • Where: Jinhae Public Stadium, Jinhae Jungwon Rotary, and it’s being expanded to more places
    • What to see and do: Jinhae-gun Music Hall Festival, Patriots Parade, Black Eagles Air Show
    image 10

    Busan Samnak Cherry Blossom Festival 부산 삼락 벚꽃축제

    image 4

    Hwagae Market Cherry Blossom Festival 

    Started in 1993, this is a festival if you want to get the true romantic Korean countryside. Charming riverside open market bordered by mountains leading up to a Buddhist temple–that’s Korea! The festival itself runs for three days in early April, when the blooms are fullest. This festival has the most “stuff” happening.

    • When: March 31st – April 2nd
    • Where: ​​Tea Culture Center in Hwagae-myeon, Hadong-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do
    • What to see and do: pungmulnori (folk drumming, dancing, and singing) contest, archery contest, parade, Celebrity Celebration Show, ssireum (Korean wrestling), Cherry Blossom Sales Competition, Hwagae Market Playground, late night movies, yutnori (traditional game) contest, talent show, youth dancing contest 
    image 5

    Gyeongju Cherry Blossom Festival

    • When: late March – early April 
    • Where: All over Gyeongju
    • What to see and do: Cherry Blossom Street Art Road, Cherry Blossom Lights, Cherry Blossom Playground, participating restaurants give you free water if you bring a tumbler
    • More info: https://www.garts.kr/index.do?menuId=00000238 (Korean)
    image 7

    Yeouido Cherry Blossom Festival

    So… you aren’t heeding my warnings, and you want to be moshed up in crowds. If you can, though, I recommend checking out Yeouido on a weekday. I used to have a couple of offices in that area, and it’s bearable then.

    • When: early April – mid-April 
    • Where: Yeouido Park, Seoul
    • What to see and do: photos
    image 8

    Seokchon Lake Cherry Blossom Festival 

    The other big Seoul draw for cherry blossoms is Seokchon Lake. It’s the one that Lotte World is on. As far as I know, there aren’t any performances or anything. It’s good if you want pictures of cherry blossoms with Lotte World in the background. You don’t need to go into Lotte World to enjoy the flowers. 

    • When: early April – mid-April 
    • Where: Seokchon Lake area, Seoul
    • What to see and do: take photos
    image 12

    Daejeon Daecheong Lake Cherry Blossom Festival 

    The youngest festival on this list. It boasts the longest cherry blossom path in the world at 26.6 km. This is one that is recommended to see by car.

    • When: early April
    • Where: local road No. 517 from Sinsang-dong, Dong-gu, Daejeon to Hoenam-myeon, Boeun-gun, Chungcheongbuk-do
    • What to see and do: drive and look at cherry blossoms

    More info: https://www.donggu.go.kr/dg/tour/contents/988 (Korean)

    And My Secret Cherry Blossom Place…

    I found this out by accident while traveling back in 2011. Hahoe Village (pronounced Ha-hway) near Andong is surrounded by cherry blossoms. And it’s practically empty this time of year. Hahoe Village is like a medieval village frozen in time. You can rent a minbak room there and spend the night. Wake up at dawn to view an amazing site even most Koreans don’t get to see. Cherry blossoms surrounding a Joseon Dynasty village!

    It’s best to go to Hahoe around the last week of March and first week of April.

    Cherry Blossom Tours

    Hike hidden trails and see the cherry blossoms that no one else sees. The Seoul Hike runs every Saturday. Your guide Shawn is a Korean folklorist who spins tales of Korea’s mountain gods and spirits while taking you to secret temples. Book here.

    Want to sit back and relax with no worries about how to get there? Check out these cherry blossom tours from our partners.

    Even More Spring Flower Festivals & Tours

    As I said, cherry blossoms are just the beginning. In my opinion, there are better flowerings in spring. Cherry blossom season in Korea is still too chilly for my taste. I’m more a fan of the azaleas that appear in late April and go through May. During that time, the air smell floral and intoxicating.

    Here are some events to fill your Instagram feed.

    NOTE: This list will be updated frequently.

    image 13

    Taean International Tulip Festival 

    Over 5 million tulips tastefully and artfully planted in Korea’s largest flower festival from one of the world’s top five tulip cities (yes, that’s true). The festival area is divided into different themed sections. This year, they’re encouraging attendees to wear pink.

    • When: April 12th – May 7th
    • Where: 400, Kkotjihaean-ro, Taean-gun, Chungcheongnam-do
    • 충청남도 태안군 안면읍 꽃지해안로 400
    • What to see and do: Just see it. It’s a giant garden with amazing flower sculptures.
    • Admission: Adults W14,000 | Children & Teens W11,000 | Seniors & Groups W12,000

    More info: http://www.koreaflowerpark.com/ (Korean)

    image 9

    Gokseong World Rose Festival 

    See 1,004 types of roses from all over the world in one place. This is a popular festival for couples, where there’s actually a contest for marriage proposals? That has to be fascinating and cringey at the same time. 

    • When: May 20th – June 5th (?) They’ve announced the start but not the end
    • Where: Gokseong Train Village
    • What to see and do: performances, hanbok fashion show, market, Rose Waltz Party
    • More Info: https://www.gokseong.go.kr/tour/festivity/rose (Korean)
    • Admission: W2,000 – which is converted into a gift certificate to spend at the festival (clever!)

    Other Spring Festivals

    There are more than flower festivals. I’m sure some of you allergy sufferers would appreciate that. May and June are the best festival seasons. They’re packed and stacked.

    Here are some notable and some quirky festivals.

    NOTE: This list will be updated frequently. Keep checking back or subscribe.

    image 14

    Jeju Fire Festival 

    How fitting that this takes place in a volcano! Well, it’s intentional. Jeju was borne from volcanic fire, and this celebrates it. The bangaebul (wildfires) were set to grazing fields to get rid of pests. There are deep cultural symbols in this event.

    • When: March 9-12
    • Where: Saebyeoloreum Volcanic Cone
      • San 59-8, Bongseong-ri, Jeju-si, Jeju-do
      • 제주 제주시 애월읍 봉성리 산59-8
    • What to see and do: parades, fire-themed performances, Volcano Show!
    • More Info: https://www.jejusi.go.kr/buriburi/main.do (Korean)
    image 15

    Goryeong Daegaya Experience Festival 고령대가야체험축제

    Gaya was the small forgotten yet mysterious kingdom sandwiched between Silla and Baekje during the Three Kingdoms Period (18 BCE – 660 CE). This festival celebrates its lost heritage. 

    • When: March 31st – April 2nd
    • Where: Daegaya History Theme Tourist Site, Jisan-dong Tombs, Daegaya Culture Nuri, Daegaya Museum, Royal Tombs Exhibition Hall in Goryeong-gun
    • What to see and do: performances, parade, historical exhibitions, ironware experience
    • More info: http://www.festdgy.com/ (Korean, under construction)

    Buan Masil Festival 부안마실축제

    A festival to celebrate the area of Buan. Very local but fun.

    image 17

    Gongju Seokjang-ri World Paleolithic Festival 공주 석장리 구석기 축제

    You’d think you’d find some paleo food here, right? This area is known for its paleolithic finds, so it celebrates Korea’s stone age culture. There are little experiences for families to learn how life was during this age.

    • When: May 5th – 7th
    • Where: Seokjang-ri Museum
      • 990 Geumbyeok-ro, Gongju-si, Chungcheongnam-do
    • What to see and do: performances, exhibitions, paleolithic experiences
    • More info: http://www.gspf.kr/ (Korean)
    image 18

    Ulsan Iron Festival 울산 쇠부리축제

    The Ulsan Soeburi Festival makes sense in this legendary industrial city. The festival is launched at Dalcheon Steelyard, the birthplace of iron-production in Korea. It’s worth it to watch traditional iron smelting in person.

    • When: May 12-14
    • Where: Dalcheon Steel Mill
      • 1-7 Dalcheon-dong, Buk-gu, Ulsan
    • What to see and do: Sparks of Hope Ceremony, performances, street parade, steel art exhibitions, car photo zone, traditional steelmaking experience, drum circles, Garden of Fire ←ooooh!
    • More info: http://www.soeburi.org/festival/ (Korean)
    image 19

    Boseong Green Tea Dahyang Festival

    The famous green tea plantations come to life! This festival celebrates the new harvest and is a must-do for green tea enthusiasts. Make sure to enjoy a cup of suncha, which is green tea harvested around this time

    • When: May (TBA)
    • Where: 775 Nokcha-ro, Boseong-eup, Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do
      • 보성읍 녹차로 1181-76 (봉산리 310번지)
    • What to see and do: tea ceremonies (Korean, Chinese, and Japanese versions!), good harvest ceremonial prayer, tea leaf picking, green tea foot bath, Green Tea Fairies (they dance and give out green tea)
    • More info: https://www.boseong.go.kr/tour/festivity/tea_aroma (Korean)

    This isn’t everything!

    I’m only adding festivals with definite dates. Korea has a tendency to wait until the last minute. It’s not unusual for a festival to have a date the week before it starts. If a festival you know of isn’t on this list, it’s likely because the official dates have yet to be announced. Please post in the comments or email me if you know of one.

    Things to Know Before You Go

    I should have led with this, but early spring in Korea is still chilly. Cherry blossom season you will still need a coat. The air is also not the cleanest. A combination of hwangsa (yellow sands from the Gobi Desert) and winds spreading pollution from China and Korea can make for some heavy air days. It’s not like this all the time, but you’ll experience it. Be prepared to wear a mask and drink lots of water.

    Though it’s not as frequent as in summer, we do get rain. As I said above, the rain gods tend to prank us by stripping the trees of the cherry blossoms. The weather in mid-April to mid-May fluctuates, so be prepared for toasty afternoons and chilly evenings. Pack accordingly.

    That said, spring–particularly May–is my favorite timein Korea. It’s intoxicating.

    More to come…

  • The New Guide to Noryangjin Fish Market

    The New Guide to Noryangjin Fish Market

    One of the best places to visit in Seoul is Noryangjin Fish Market. It’s like an aquarium where you can eat the exhibits. Unlike a lot of fish markets around the world, many of the fish are still alive in tanks. Because of that, it doesn’t smell as rank as other markets.

    This is a new guide because Noryangjin has gone through a transition from the Old Building to the new one. 

    Let Us Take You There

    If you want a fun guide and eating companion, book our Noryangjin Fish Market Experience. We can take you to Noryangjin Fish Market and other great finds only local foodies know.
    Noryangjin 7

    When To Go

    This isn’t like many fish markets around the world. Many of the fish are living in aquariums. They’re not decaying on a counter. The freshness of the fish is the same all times of the day.

    The only things I’ve observed over the years is that it will get busy Friday and Saturday in the late afternoon and early evening. Groups of salary workers and seafood partiers are venturing out to get their catch for an evening of Neptunian bacchanalia.

    Getting There

    Noryangjin Station is one of Seoul’s most confusing. The reason is that there are two unconnected stations on two different lines. There are TWO EXIT 1s!

    ARRRGH!!

    The original station connects to Line 1, the dark blue line. The new station connects to Line 9, the gold line, the only privatized subway line in Seoul.

    Line 1 Method

    If you’re coming from Line 1, you’ll be above ground. The least confusing way is to go out Exit 2. Go up the stairs from the platform. You’ll see a lot of street food vendors in the station. Head right and go out the turnstiles. There should be a convenience store and a coffee shop with an escalator and stairs. Go down the stairs and continue going straight, following the road. 

    You’ll pass exits 8 and 7. Keep going. There will be a tunnel on your right. Go through there, and you’ll make it to the market.

    Line 9 Method

    Resurface at exit 7. Go straight, following the road, and turn right into a tunnel. There will be vendors sitting on the ground. That’s a sign you’re getting close. You’ll get through the tunnel and find yourself at the entrance to the main market.

    A NOTE ON THE VENDORS
    They’re not aggressive. They’re assertive. They’re competitive. The shellfish and live “swimming fish” vendors are most so. It’s rude to play with the seafood without buying. Always smile and be polite. Don’t let them push you around, though. Just move on.

    Don’t worry about getting cheated. There are Noryangjin apps in Korean that keep up to date with seafood prices. I’ve found that the Noryangjin vendors generally sell their wares a hair higher than the places that cater exclusively to restaurants. They don’t fleece tourists. They’re good folk.

    On the right, outside, you will see a soccer field. That’s where the old building stood until 2022. 

    Bizarre Foods was filmed in the old building in August 2008. Read my blog post about the filming here.

    Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern
    Andrew Zimmern loving the penis fish

    The New Building

    New Noryangjing. From Korea Tourism Organization.

    The old building was open air and rougher. It had a lot of charm. The new building seems more like a shopping mall. The positive change is that the restaurants are cleaner.

    New Building 1F

    Take a look at the map.

    The main landmark to orient yourself on the first floor is the escalator. There aren’t many vendors in the green area.

    Noryangjin Escalator

    The vendors are similar to what you saw in the Old Building. Maybe more lobster. Just wander here. I wouldn’t buy any seafood yet. There’s so much exploring to do.

    MAP KEY

    Green – Fresh but dead seafood

    Lavender – Frozen

    Blue – Live fish

    Orange – Shellfish

    ABOUT THE AUCTIONS
    This isn’t like the fish market in Tokyo. I’ve seen auctions in various markets. They aren’t as exciting. Kinda subdued. Beside, we have all this live seafood in the area. It’s just as fresh at 6 p.m. as it is at 4 a.m.

    After a good wander, go up the escalator.

    New Building 2F

    The second floor is where I do business. I buy my foods and eat them here. I like the restaurants. They’re so much cleaner than they were in the Old Building. I don’t have to be on the watch for cockroaches. Many of the restaurants are connected to specific vendors. They’re mostly named after famous seafood areas in Korea. The move to the New Building has made it possible for new types of restaurants and pubs to spring up.

    Highlights

    This is what I usually like to do and see.

    Knife Shops (Section D)

    At the top of the escalator are the knife vendors. These are good for souvenirs, around W45,000 to hundreds of thousands. Just make sure that you put the knives in your checked luggage. These are good quality sashimi knives that will shave the hair off your arm.

    Salted Seafood Marketplace

    This is my favorite part of the whole market. All these fermented salted seafood. These are used to make kimchi, muchim (salads), to put on steamed pork wraps, and to just eat on the side. There are toothpicks available to try samples. The fun is just trying things. Don’t even try to guess what they are. I’ve had guests on my tours like some things so much, they bought a small pack to bring back to the hotel. One of my guilty pleasures is the spicy smothered raw oysters with some buttery Ritz or Zec crackers. It helps to have a bottle of water with you.

    Live Octopus Corridor (Section H)

    If you want to try the squirming octopus, you can ask for it here. In the past, the vendors have set us up with an impromptu table with chopsticks and dipping sauce.

    Ask for SAN NAKJI 산낙지. <– useful Korean word

    Fried Shrimp Stand

    They sell not only fried shrimp. Other fried goodies and bottled craft beers occupy the menu. THIS is the new Noryangjin.

    Other Notable Restaurants

    Jian and I checking out the Japanese restaurant
    Jian and I scouting the Japanese restaurant

    In section F, there are a fried seafood drinking spot and a Japanese sushi restaurant. They are both great. If you don’t want to deal with the vendors, you’ll have just as good of a time in any of those places.

    Second Floor Vendors (Sections C & G)

    This is where I usually get my seafood. The dotted circle is the specific vendor I go to out of habit. I’ve dealt with them before, and they know what I like. There’s a woman selling octopus and shellfish and a man selling live fish. Many vendors have restaurants. The guys I buy from are connected to Haeundae 해운대, which is named after Busan’s most famous beach. A live fish will run you W30,000 to W50,000. Just point and gesture how many of fish and shellfish you want.

    NOTE ON KOREAN SASHIMI
    Korean “sashimi” is called “hwe.” The vendors will say, “Sashimi,” because that’s the word they know tourists know. Unlike Japanese sashimi and sushi, it’s not aged. It’s fresh. It much firmer than sashimi and has a clean ocean taste. The most common hwe are flounder/sole, rockfish, salmon, and tuna.
    Korean sashimi hwe
    A typical Hwe platter

    Oh, you want some Korean words? Here you are.

    Common Swimming Fish

    I’m including the official romanization and a rough pronunciation guide in parentheses.

    Flounder – Gwang-eo (Gwahng-uh) 광어
    Rockfish – U-reok (Oo-rock) 우럭
    Salmon – Yeon-eo (Yuhnuh) 연어 <–not sold live
    Tuna – Chamchi 참치 <–not sold live

    Common Shellfish and Other Critters

    Shrimp – Sae-u (SEH-oo) 새우
    Oysters – Gul (Gool) 굴
    Clams – Jogae 조개
    Scallops – Garibi (GAHreebee) 가리비
    Abalone – Jeonbok (John-boak) 전복
    Sea Worms (the penis fish) – Gaebul (GEH-bool) 개불
    Sea Cucumbers – Haesam 해삼
    Eel – Jang-eo (JAHNG-uh) 장어

    Korean Seafood Restaurant

    After you choose and pay for your catch, someone will guide you to the connected restaurant. They’re pretty much all the same, so don’t resist. They’ll likely want to get you going before your fish is dispatched and sliced up. If you want to watch the gruesome sight of how animal becomes food in five minutes, stick around.

    When you enter the restaurant, the server at the front likely will ask you how you want everything set up. They’ll know right away which one is sashimi. For the other things, if you don’t know, just nod and agree. I’ve had great surprises that way.

    Many times the shellfish will be steamed (jjim 찜) or grilled (gwee 구이).

    Salt Grilled Shrimp
    Salt Grilled Shrimp

    I particularly ask for the shrimp to be salt grilled (sae-u sogeum gwee 새우소금구이). The result is a shell so brittle that you can eat the shrimp shell and all.

    Butter Grilled Scallops
    Butter Grilled Scallops

    The scallops are good steamed. Sometimes you can get them grilled in butter, called “Butter Gwee 버터구이.”

    The squirming live octopus, again, is called San Nakji 산낙지. I don’t recommend trying to eat one whole. In fact, the server likely will refuse to serve it that way because it’s too dangerous. In a way, it’s crueler than quickly chopping it up with a knife. Even though the chopped octopus is squirming, it’s no longer alive. I’ve timed it twice. It takes fifteen full minutes to eat an octopus whole. Get it chopped.

    After they take your catch, they’ll guide you to a table. Order your drinks. Soju is the traditional choice, but I also like to have some beer (maekju).

    You’ll have some sauces set out for you.

    • Soy sauce and wasabi — The classic
    • Vinegared chili sauce (Cho-gochujang) – This is the typical Korean style dipping sauce. I like mixing it with wasabi, making it taste a lot like cocktail sauce.
    • Pohang sauce – It’s a mix of fermented bean paste (Doenjang), chopped garlic, chopped green chilies, and sesame sauce. It originates from the southeastern port of Pohang. Mix it up. It’s great!
    And that’s it!

    Sit back and enjoy. You deserve it.

    Oh, one more thing…

    Mid-way through your meal, ask for Maeuntang (MAY-oon-tahng) 매운탕. It’s a spicy boiling soup made with the bones and head of your fish, along with healthy greens. I like taking some of the leftover sashimi and dipping them in the soup like shabu-shabu. This is the traditional way to end a proper Korean hwe meal.

    BONUS

    I always have bonus extras.

    Cup Rice Street

    One of my favorite secret corners of Seoul is Cup Rice Street (Cup Bap Geori 컵밥거리), right on the other side of Noryangjin Station. It’s a row of streetside vendors catering to students studying for professional exams. Cheap. Lots of variety. Unique. And Good.

    Pho
    Vietnamese Pho
    Ogane Pancake
    Ogane Pancake (something new)
    Shrimp Steak?
    Did it say “Shrimp Steak?”

    Be on the lookout for the infamous Bomb Rice (Poktan Bap 폭탄밥). It’s a super spicy variation of Bibiimbap.

    Bomb Rice
    Bomb Rice

    Here’s how to get there.

    Cup Rice Street Map
    Click to enlarge

    Exit the Fish Market and head towards a tunnel. Exit and walk east to the subway station. Cross the main road and follow the street. Pass a McDonald’s and a gas station before you get there.

    ONE MORE NOTE

    I want to thank Dino for pushing me to create this guide.

    Please leave more tips in the comments