Tag: Street Food

  • How Much Does Seoul Really Cost? A Budget Breakdown for Every Type of Traveler

    How Much Does Seoul Really Cost? A Budget Breakdown for Every Type of Traveler

    How much does Seoul really cost?

    Seoul’s got a reputation problem. Half the internet says it’s dirt cheap, all street food and $3 noodles. The other half says it’ll bankrupt you on rooftop bars and skincare. Both are right.

    You can spend $3 on a bowl of noodles that genuinely slaps, then $15 on a pour-over in Seongsu that tastes like it was blessed by monks. The trick is knowing where your money actually goes, and where you’re just paying the gentrification tax.

    This is the real Seoul price breakdown, by travel style: Backpacker, Mid-range Explorer, and Luxury Without Regret.


    The Quick Snapshot

    CategoryBackpackerMid-rangeLuxury
    Daily Budget₩40,000–₩80,000₩100,000–₩200,000₩300,000+
    Meal₩5,000–₩10,000₩12,000–₩25,000₩30,000+
    Accommodation₩20,000–₩40,000₩60,000–₩120,000₩180,000–₩500,000+
    Transit₩5,000₩7,000₩20,000+ (private taxi or tour van)
    AttractionsFree–₩10,000₩10,000–₩30,000₩50,000+ (guided tours, performances)

    Backpacker / Budget Traveler: ₩40,000–₩80,000/day

    Seoul budget for backpackers

    You’re eating like a local, walking everywhere, and maybe sleeping in a shared room. But you’re getting the real Seoul, not the airbrushed version.

    Where Your Money Goes

    • Hostels: ₩20,000–₩35,000 for a dorm bed in Hongdae, Itaewon, or Mapo
    • Street food: ₩1,000–₩5,000 an item, stick to Mangwon Market or Dongmyo
    • Convenience store dinners: triangle kimbap (₩1,200), instant ramen (₩900), gimbap (₩2,500)
    • Free entertainment: Han River hangouts, temple visits, mural walks, street buskers in Hongdae
    • Transit: T-money rides run ₩1,400–₩1,800 each

    Eat where the taxi drivers eat. If it smells like garlic and diesel, you’re in the right spot.


    Mid-Range Traveler: ₩100,000–₩200,000/day

    Mid-range traveler budget for Seoul

    You want comfort, not extravagance. You’re here for the food and the culture, and you’re done with bunk beds and shared showers.

    Where Your Money Goes

    • Boutique guesthouse or 2–3 star hotel: ₩60,000–₩120,000/night
    • Real meals, BBQ, jeon with makgeolli, jjimdak, galbi: expect ₩10,000–₩20,000 a person
    • Cafés: ₩6,000–₩8,000 for fancy drinks in repurposed warehouses
    • Activities: cooking classes (₩50,000–₩90,000), day tours (₩40,000–₩100,000), exhibitions (₩10,000–₩20,000)
    • Occasional splurges: hanbok rental, temple food course, K-pop dance workshop

    A ₩13,000 meal in Seoul can feel more satisfying than a ₩40,000 one in most other cities. This is the sweet spot for value without sacrificing the experience.


    Luxury Traveler (But Not Stupid About It): ₩300,000+/day

    Luxury budget for travel in Seoul
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    You want craft cocktails, boutique hotels with real insulation, and dinners that make you consider just staying in Korea.

    Where Your Money Goes

    • High-end hotel or hanok stay: ₩200,000–₩500,000/night, check Seochon or Seongsu
    • Fine dining: tasting menus ₩90,000–₩250,000+
    • Private driver or tour: ₩250,000–₩500,000 for a full-day guide and vehicle combo
    • Spa day: ₩80,000+ for massages or Korean skincare experiences
    • Premium cocktails: ₩15,000–₩25,000 a drink in hidden bars with no signage and mysterious doorbells

    “Luxury” in Seoul doesn’t always mean better service. It usually just means quieter interiors, English-speaking staff, and less chance of a delivery guy walking through the lobby while you check in.


    Hidden Costs You’ll Want to Budget For

    • Late-night taxi fares: 20% surcharge after midnight
    • ATM fees: ₩3,600–₩6,000 per withdrawal unless you’re using Wise or Revolut
    • Hanbok rental: ₩10,000–₩20,000 for a few hours, hair not included
    • Coffee: ₩5,000–₩8,000 a cup, yes, even for iced Americano
    • Entrance fees: palaces run ₩3,000, combo tickets save money

    Where to Save Without Suffering

    • Lunch specials: many restaurants offer cheaper lunch sets, roughly ₩8,000–₩12,000
    • Public transport: skip the Ubers, subways go everywhere
    • Bakeries: Korea’s French obsession means cheap sandwiches and pastries
    • Street food neighborhoods: skip Myeongdong, head to Mangwon, Gwangjang early, or the university areas
    • Free things that don’t suck: Cheonggyecheon stream walk, Naksan Park hike, museum exhibits, open temples, department store rooftops

    Seoul Can Be a Steal or a Splurge

    Whether you’re rolling in on ₩50,000 a day or burning ₩500,000 like kindling, Seoul meets you where you are. Budget travel here doesn’t mean boring, and high-end doesn’t always mean better, just quieter, with fancier light fixtures.


    Coming Up Next

    What Kind of Traveler Are You? Find your Seoul match, whether you’re a solo foodie, a K-pop pilgrim, a wellness nut, or just here for the BBQ and the vibes.

  • 14 Must-eat Korean Foods In Seoul and Where To Eat

    14 Must-eat Korean Foods In Seoul and Where To Eat

    I’ve been writing about Korean food in Seoul since 2004 at ZenKimchi. I’ve consulted Anthony Bourdain, Andrew Zimmern, Lonely PlanetConde Nast Traveler, The Travel Channel, and other world media in finding the must eat Korean foods.
    Here’s the ultimate list. These are foods you can find specific restaurants for. I’m not including foods that you’d find as side dishes, like Japchae and Kimchi.

    Beginner’s Quest

    This list is getting so hyuuuge that I’m dividing it into Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced. Beginner is if you’re new to Korean food, or if it’s your first time in Korea. These are also the foods that are crowd pleasers–the greatest hits. The Top-40 music of Korean food.

    Korean BBQ

    Korean BBQ - a must eat korean food

    The first must-eat Korean food that springs to mind. Cooking meat at your table and wrapping it in lettuce. There’s something primal about that. Korean BBQ is all about community and fun. In Korea itself, pork is king. Beef costs so much it’s for special occasions.

    Where to eat Korean BBQ

    It’s hard to screw up Korean BBQ in Korea. The competition is so fierce that mediocre places don’t hang out long.

    Mapo Jeong Daepo 마포정대포

    Mapo Jeong Daepo 마포정대포

    My go-to place is still Jeong Daepo in the Mapo neighborhood, near Gongdeok Station. The whole area is full of BBQ aromas. Most all the restaurants in that area are great. We made sure Anthony Bourdain went there the last time he was in Seoul. It’s the main place we go to on The Ultimate Korean BBQ Night Out.

    Hongik Sutbul Galbi Sogeum Gwi 홍익숯불갈비소금구

    Hongik Sutbul Galbi Sogeum Gwi 홍익숯불갈비소금구

    I don’t know how long this will hold out against the pressure of gentrification. It’s a packed, packed, packed place. They give your meat a pre-cook over strong fire before finishing it at your table.

    Chicken & Beer

    Fried Chicken and Beer

    “Chimaek” (Chicken + Maekju | beer) got its start in the early 1970s. It’s now such a great must-eat Korean food institution that we have more chicken restaurants than there are McDonald’s in the entire world. There’s something about this combination. Strangely, it works well with watered down Korean beers–preferably Cass. I swear.
    I’m more a fan of classic styles. Recent styles of fried chicken lean more to the American style–thick flour-based crust. I like the thin starch-based coating with the aromatic spicies.

    Join us for a Crawl to Three Chicken & Beer Pubs

    Check out more of the Chicken & Beer Pub Crawl here.

    Where to eat Chicken & Beer

    I’d almost say it’s hard to go wrong, but it is. Chicken hofs are neighborhood haunts. There’s no exclusive I-gotta-try-this chicken pub with a line out the door. In fact, if there’s a line out the door stay far away from it. My rule of thumb is this. If it’s full of beautiful young women taking Insta-selfies, it’s not good chicken. If it’s grease stained and full of middle-aged men who look like life has kicked them in the teeth, great chicken.

    Two-Two Chicken 둘둘치킨

    You can’t go wrong with Two-Two (pictured above). You’ll likely be the youngest person in any of its locations. It’s a franchise, but each venue acts like a mom-and-pop shop. The basic recipe and yangnyeom (spicy sweet garlic sauce) are the same, but they put their own spins on the sauces. We include a stop at a Two-Two on our Authentic Korean Chicken & Beer Experience. They’re outside Gongdeok Station, and the couple who runs it is great and welcoming. I want them to get more love.

    Chicken Baengi 치킨뱅이

    They also do it classic style. Get their chicken 3-ways: fried, sauced, and garlic. Then go for the pa dalk, boneless chicken thighs on top of dressed ribbons of green onions.

    Nurungji Tongdalk 누룽지통닭

    Nurungji Tongdalk 누룽지통닭

    A new brand, they don’t do fried. Chicken is spit roasted over wood and served on sizzling platters of crispy rice. The ones near Gongdeok and Sookmyung Women’s University kill.

    Locations?

    Since these are franchises, your best bet is to copy and paste the Korean names above into Google Maps, Naver Map, or Kakao Map.

    Kimchi Jjigae

    Kimchi Jjigae 김치찌개

    Okay, you fans of “Always Be My Maybe.” This stew sits on the pantheon of comfort foods, next to macaroni and cheese. It is so perfect on a chilly Seoul night. You want it chock full of tofu and pork. The canned tuna version is also quite good, though I like it better when it’s served at a drinking establishment in a beat-up tin pot.

    Where to eat Kimchi Jjigae

    Most Korean diners, like Kimbap Cheonguk, will have it on the menu. There are few places that make it the star of their menus, except…

    Omori Jjigae 오모리찌개전문점

    Omori Jjigae 오모리찌개전문점

    Go down to Jamsil, across the lake from Lotte World, and up to the second floor for this. It’s a chain, but this is the flagship store. Go to the second floor. The first floor is for black bean noodles. Here, you can get 3-year-old Kimchi Jjigae. You’d be surprised at how subtle and smooth it tastes.

    Gwanghwamun Jip 광화문집

    Gwanghwamun Jip 광화문집

    Tiny, tiny, tiny place near Gyeongbokgung Palace. They have two items, a very tart pork kimchi jjigae and gyeran mari (rolled omelet). Get both.

    Bibimbap

    Jeonju Bibimbap

    (Gogung Jeonju Bibimbap)

    The king of rice bowls. There are many kinds of bibimbap. There’s the dolsot sizzling kind. There’s the fancy Jeonju bibimbap. There’s your basic Korean diner bibimbap served in a plastic bowl with a fried egg.
    Contrary to what you may have had outside Korea, it doesn’t always come sizzling, and it doesn’t always come with an egg. There are infinite combinations.

    Where to eat Bibimbap

    Like Kimchi Jjigae, it’s available in most diners. There is a chain called Bon Bibimbap, the same as Bon Juk. It’s just fine and dandy. But if you want to go for something more serious…

    Jeonju Yuhalmeoni Bibimbap 전주유할머니비빔밥

    Jeonju Yuhalmeoni Bibimbap 전주유할머니비빔밥

    Respect, respect, respect. Grandmother knows how to make good bibimbap. This place has been around for over 50 years. Simple menu. Get the bibimbap and the Kongnamul Gukbap (Bean Sprout Soup).

    Gogung 고궁

    I love Gogung (pictured above). The original location is in Jeonju. It’s a case of franchising out and collapsing. It’s hard to find a Gogung in Seoul anymore. Thankfully, there is one in the Starfield Mall in Gangnam. This is classic refined royal Jeonju bibimbap served in brass bowls.

    Naengmyeon

    Naengmyeon 냉면

    Chilled. Buckwheat. Noodles.

    It’s in my top ten of favorite Korean foods. All the chilled buckwheat noodle dishes are. Naengmyeon itself comes from North Korea. The classic Pyongyang style is light with a clean sophisticated broth. Can you believe that before the 20th century, northern Korea was known for more fancy artistocratic cuisine than the south?

    Naengmyeon always hits the spot at the end of a barbecue meal, with a few squirts of vinegar and hot mustard from the bottles sitting next to you. That may be why places like Woo Lae Oak are famous for the naengmyeon. Fancy BBQ must follow with refined naengmyeon.
    There are usually two types available, noodles in soup (mul naengmyeon), and noodles mixed with a spicy gochujang sauce (bibim naengmyeon). Of course, there are many more varieties, like there are of bibimbap. Baby steps.

    Where to eat Naengmyeon

    If you’re in Korea for a short while, just order a bowl at the end of your BBQ dinner. The one pictured above was just a W5,000 (~$4.25 USD) lunch special at a little BBQ joint near my regular jogging route. Otherwise, try these places.

    Woo Lae Oak 우래옥

    Woo Lae Oak 우래옥

    Famous, famous place. Almost too famous for being too famous. I like it, but it feels a bit stodgy. It’s where you take your grandma after church. The prices are premium, but it’s worth it for the naengmyeon.

    Dongmu Bapsang (Comrade’s Table) 둥무밥상

    Dongmu Bapsang (Comrade's Table) 둥무밥상

    He used to cook for officers in the North Korean army before defecting to the South. Now his cozy shop serves dishes that he misses from home. Yes, definitely eat the naengmyeon here. Also try the soondae sausages.

    Jeongin Myeonok 정인면옥

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    Watch out for the lunch lines here. It gets crowded. The naengmyeon is great, but it may also be because it’s one of the few good restaurants in Yeouido.

    Street Food

    When in Asia, tourists want street food. Seoul has good street food, but don’t expect what you’d find in Southeast Asia. Street food in Korea primarily acts as a snack and late night starch filler for an alcohol-laden stomach. Most carts serve the same exact thing. There are variations, but those are in areas that cater to tourists and college students.

    Ddeokbokki Tteokbokki 떡볶이

    Tteokbokki

    Don’t call it “topoki!” That was some hare-brained scheme concocted by a government agency ten years ago. They’re chewy rice cakes in a spicy sauce. I personally think the stuff on the street is sweeter because it’s more suited for kids. Tteokbokki in bricks-and-mortars, like Jaws Food and Mimine (pictured above), tend to be better. Spicier and more savory.

    Oden Eomuk 오댕 어묵

    Odeng/Eomuk

    Fish cakes on sticks soaking in MSG-saturated broth. Just go and grab a stick, brush on a few happy dabs of sauce with the brush Bob Ross style, eat, and pay. The proprietor counts the number of sticks you have left over.

    Hot Ba 홋바

    Hot Ba

    Or Hot Bar? It’s fish dough shaped into logs on sticks and deep fried like a corn dog. In fact, they come with hot dogs and other ingredients in them. That’s one of my favorite street foods.

    Twigim 퇴김

    Twigim

    Fried stuff. Usually sweet potatoes, shrimp, sesame leaves. It’s like tempura but heavier.

    Soondae 순대

    Soondae

    The proper romanization is sundae, but I don’t want you to confuse this with ice cream. They’re blood and glass noodle sausages. The traditional version uses rice instead of noodles, but the street version uses the glass ones, giving them a bouncy texture. It’s served with pig liver and offal. What I like to do is make Kim-Tteok-Soon. Mix the Twigim and Soondae together with Tteokbokki sauce. It’s what Harold and Kumar would crave if they lived in Korea.

    Hotteok 호떡

    Hotteok

    Fried dough stuffed with brown sugar, nuts, and other goodies. They are delicious and make great hand warmers. They emerge in high numbers during winter.

    Bungeobbang 붕어빵

    Bungeobbang

    Sweet cakes stuffed with sweet red bean or custard. Another great hand warmer and quite good.

    Gyeranbbang 계란빵

    Gyeranbbang

    Literally, “egg bread.” Sweet pancake batter cooked in a cup like a muffin with an egg cracked inside. Sweet and savory. Protein and carbs. It’s the breakfast you never knew you needed.

    Where to eat Seoul Street Food

    You can get it most anywhere. Here are some areas that have a unique touch.

    Myeong-dong

    It’s one of the few times I’ll say Myeong-dong has better food. The street food scene there is competitive. But Myeong-dong is like Times Square in New York. There are more tourists than locals. It’s here that you’ll find the Frankenstein creations, like lobster with cheese. The Tornado Potato was born here, as well as many street food staples and flashes in the pans.

    Insa-dong

    It’s another touristy area. Here you’ll find the famous Insa-dong Hotteok, which puts a bit of cornmeal in its dough, giving it a super crunchy texture. Other highlights are the fire-grilled chicken on a stick and my beloved egg breads. Insa-dong’s street food scene took a bad hit from both COVID-19’s tourism dearth and the relentless bulldozing to make way for bland shopping malls.

    Hongdae

    Carts with the basics camp outside Hongik University Station, exit 9. Further down, past the buskers, you can find what I call Crazy Street Food Alley. It’s a series of stalls that are always rotating with new street food ideas. It’s like a market research lab throwing everything against the wall to see what sticks.

    Noryangjin Cup Rice Road 컵밥거리

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    Now this is food that is meant to be eaten like a meal. These stands cater to young adults studying for professional exams. The cram schools to help them prepare for these career tests congregate here. Cup Rice Road sprouted as a bunch of carts to feed these poor hungry young professionals-to-be.
    Here’s a map of all the places I’ve mentioned.

    Patbingsu

    Patbingsu 팥빙소

    Dessert! We don’t really have desserts in the Western sense in Korea. We do have this shaved ice treat. The competition each summer with Bingsu makers gets more intense each year.
    It’s a war!
    The goal is to shave ice so perfect it’s fluffy fresh fallen snow. The ice itself usually comes from frozen milk, but I’ve seen other ice sources, including coffee and makgeolli (Korean rice ale).

    Where to eat Patbingsu

    The margins make this lucrative, so everyone is trying to get into the game. Most all bakery chains, like Paris Baguette and Tous Les Jours, get all into this. Most coffee shops do this. There are some places that specialize in it.

    Sulbing 설빙

    Sulbing is a franchise that popped up a few years ago. I wondered how risky such a venture would be–as in, who would order bingsu in winter? But they’ve done well. They’re crowded in the summer. Sulbing specializes in Instagrammy bingsu, and that’s a good thing. They’re showstoppers. Don’t worry about how large they are. Remember they’re just shaved ice. When melted the liquid would fit into a grande Starbucks cup. If you’re traveling with kids this is the treat they’ll remember.
    Since it’s a franchise, just copy and paste 설빙 into your map app of choice to find your closest location.

    Mealtop 밀탑

    Odd name. Odd location. It’s hidden on the 5th floor of Hyundai Department Store in Apgujeong. Well, not really hidden. It takes up a lot of space. But you have to go up a bunch of escalators to get there. They have a big variety of bingsu. What I like is that the portions or smaller, so you can try different flavors in one go. They are starting to franchise out.

  • Street Food at Home: Ultimate Rabokki

    Street Food at Home: Ultimate Rabokki

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    Every now and then I get the craving for junk food–Korean junk food. Rather than ordering some rabokki from my local kimbap shack, I decided to make my own while cleaning out my refrigerator in the process. Yeah, it’s more bunsik than street food, but semantics were never my strong point. Rabokki is Ddeokbokki with ramyeon and other goodies. And I threw in the goodies. Check it out.

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    This is best eaten hot with company–and without white shirts. It’s messy and oh so junky! It won’t win any beauty contests. It also doesn’t keep well, so eat it right away.

     

  • Vintage Post: "Dragon Egg" Bread

    Vintage Post: "Dragon Egg" Bread

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    We saw this in Insa-dong this past weekend.  They’ve actually been there for a few months.  The Insa-dong and Jongno areas tend to be where new street foods are introduced, outside of Myeong-dong.  That’s where the Chuncheon-style dalkgocchi (chicken on a stick) started, where they grill thick morsels of chicken and veggies over charcoal.  It’s also the home of some of the most popular hoddeok in Seoul, with lines around the cart.  I think the secret is they use corn meal in the batter.

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    This little operation has bulgogi-stuffed and sweet-potato-and-walnut-stuffed breads that are cooked tandoori style over charcoal.

    DragonBread1

    CAUTION: These little buggers are hot and remain so for a long time, even on the outside.  These will be quite useful in the winter as hand warmers.

    We got the bulgogi version.  I didn’t immediately taste much charcoal smoke, but it had a nice toasted quality that will make me buy these (2,000 won) every time I’m back in the area.

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  • Egg Bread

    Egg Bread

    EggBread11

    The weather gets cooler–it’s street food season.  Check out these Eggy Bread (Gyeran Bbang 계란 빵).  They’re a bit like French Toast but more… eggy.  They have a slight sweetness but not overpowering, and they are perfect for a late night street food crawl.

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  • Spicy Odeng with Crab

    Spicy Odeng with Crab

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    I came across this monster outside of Anyang Station. There’s a good string of pojang machas (street food stands) to the left leaving the station. There is some good healthy competition and innovation going on there, including the chicken-on-a-stick stand with bowls and bowls of sauces you can brush on your grilled chicken.

    This is like a typical odeng/eomuk (fish noodle) stand–except that the noodles have been soaking in a hot bath of crab essence.

    See them back there?

    I didn’t ask if you could actually get one of the bad boys themselves. The odeng itself was freakin’ spicy–even for me. But it was amazing. The stand had the normal soy-based brushing sauce and a wasabi-based one. It also had a tub of crab odeng without the heat.

    I may do that one the next time.

  • The Day of the Pepero

    The Day of the Pepero

    p> <p>I think she realized her mistake, but she never admitted it nor apologized

    Of course, I found a few errors, and the errors were fixed at the front desk with white-out and pen. After a month, these class roster sheets look ugly, ugly, ugly.

    After work Friday, I walked home in a better mood. Everything was cleared up. Eun Jeong was meeting me later for dinner. I passed a truck selling large crabs. I stopped and walked back. The guy was giving free crab samples to people, and they were buying the crabs. So I thought I’d buy a few. I also bought some stuffed squids. The Food Journal has more details on that.

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    I finally saw a doctor about the Seoul Cough. He prescribed me medicine that worked until it ran out. I went back a few weeks later, and I’m currently on a five day supply.

    The weekend of October 23rd was my son Zen’s seventh birthday. I tried to give him a call, but as usual, no one answered the phone.

    It was also the birthday of Sendil Krishnan, and if you don’t know Sendil Krishnan, as the saying goes, “You don’t know no one.”

    And– it was the one year anniversary of Eun Jeong and me. We celebrated by going to a very, very bad Italian restaurant in Beomgye. Even when we ordered red wine, they gave us this sweet fruit spritzer that only sorority girls and women with big hair would drink.

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    We made up for the bad Italian dinner by having a second Korean dinner at Indio, where you can get three dishes for 11,000 won (that’s their gimmick). And the food was much better.

    The big thing was that we ordered couple rings. We bought each other’s ring. I bought Eun Jeong this type of “champagne” jewel with a gold heart dangling from it. Eun Jeong bought me a classy gold ring that split in the middle at two tapered ends.

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    In the meantime, the school took a field trip to an art museum. The building was new but done up in traditional Korean architecture. The outside of the museum was more interesting than what was inside. Inside was a small modern art display, not nearly comparable to the kick ass contemporary art museum in Seoul Grand Park.

    While we were finding a place to picnic, the kids came across a group of soldiers on a hike. They harassed the soldiers, but they took it in stride and marched off while they kids yelled, “Anyeong! Goodbye!”

    Halloween was a hit.

    I had been stressing out about this big carnival we were planning. Of course, it didn’t completely turned out as planned, but it did turn out better than I had hoped.

    We stayed late Thursday night (October 27th) setting up. We had prepped so much stuff ahead of time, we only stayed until 8:30 or 9:00. A year ago at Brighton, we were there until midnight.

    We were able to set up an apple dunk, two lollipop trees, a fishing booth, an art room, a cakewalk, a music room with a dancing Frankenstein, a movie room, and a haunted gym with a maze. I am posting the pictures right now.

    As we were leaving Thursday night, it occurred to me that I had been so busy setting up the school, I had forgotten about my costume. While cleaning up, I found an oversized “ajumma visor,” and the wheels started turning on the way home.

    The next day, I showed up wearing Eun Jeong’s gray jogging suit with the visor and a sweater wrapped around my neck as a cape. On the visor, I printed “Super???” (“Super Ajumma”), making fun of the pushy middle aged ladies who are so famous in Korea. I thought I would get beaten up for wearing a costume that mocked an aspect of Korean culture, even though playfully. But it seemed everyone got the joke and enjoyed it. The mothers took pictures of me, saying I was cute.

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    We started the day by taking the kindergarteners trick or treating at participating parents’ apartments. They went all out for it, and they had a lot of fun. Some of the mothers followed us back for the games.

    As with every Friday of late, lunch was skimpy. That day it was just kimbap. So Julia, Lars, and I headed to a little place I had discovered which makes this beautiful rainbow looking bibimbap. It tastes good, it’s cheap, and it’s extremely healthy. Only in Korea have I found health food that I actually like.

    We rushed back and played the games, which were dry runs for when the older kids came later. The most popular were the apple dunk and fishing booth. Actually, I was surprised at how overwhelmingly popular the fishing booth was. It was just some tables covered in blue bed sheets (my blue bed sheets). The kids toss a fishing line with a clip on the end over the table. Someone under the table attaches a prize bag and pulls on it, like a fish hit it. I didn’t realize how much fun it must be for a kid to do that.

    The cakewalk went over pretty well, too. We didn’t have any donated baked goods like a traditional cakewalk. Instead, we had a pile of moonpies and candies. The kids went in a circle to music, stepping on numbered ghost-shaped spots on the floor. When the music stopped, they stopped, and I pulled out a number. Whoever was standing on that number got to pick a piece of candy from the table. There was a line of kids waiting to join in the game most of the time.

    The Haunted Gym was the centerpiece. We were understaffed, so no one watched the gym. I knew it was going to get torn down. I was surprised it held up as well as it did. It was similar to the haunted house from last year, made up of deep sea fishing line and black plastic garbage bags. I had my classic “Disney’s Thrilling, Chilling Sounds of the Haunted House” CD playing full blast in there. I still get goosebumps when I listen to that in the dark.

    We were pooped by the time the third and last wave of students finished the carnival. We had run out of apples a long time ago and had them dunking for yogurt (yes, seriously). We tore down and cleaned up the place in an hour and a half. Then Lars, Injoo, and I headed to Ansan.

    Injoo wanted us to try a new cheap kalbi place. I mentioned it in the Food Journal. I saw Canada Chris there, and we caught up on what was happening in his life. I was worried that he was one of the ones getting caught up in the big immigration bust, but he was kosher.

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    After dinner, we headed to the bar RPM, which used to be the infamously pathetic Bon Jovi Rock Club. The reason was our old bartender friend from Magic Castle, Silver, was the manager there. He was holding a big Halloween bash. Lars wasn’t interested in paying a 10,000 won cover charge to stand around and listen to loud music, so he called it a night. I hadn’t seen Silver in a long ass time, so I stuck around.

    The party wasn’t too bad. As always, people were a little stiff and needed loosening up. I met some cool foreigners, including a wonderful, hilarious girl named Courtney. I also met a beautiful and charming Korean girl, Kellis, who works as an editor for a video company. She came dressed as Magenta from “Rocky Horror,” and I was the only one who guessed who she was.

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    I wanted to see the bartending show. After it was finished, I found that it was too late to catch the subway. This meant that I had to stick around until 5 AM. Well, I had new friends. Might as well stick around.

    Kellis waited for a friend to show up, and she did after a while. She hooked up with this other friend of hers. She also joined us in a little drinking game where we suck a glass of beer out with a straw behind the bar. (I lost for the first time.)

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    This girl got really, really drunk. Her brand new boyfriend did nothing to take care of her. Kellis was worried, and she couldn’t walk down the stairs.

    Now, I was raised in a culture where men help women in distress. So I picked up Kellis’ friend and carried her down two flights of stairs like a rag doll. As I was doing this, her friend threw up warm pink vomit all over my clothes.

    After we made sure this girl’s brother was going to come and pick her up, I headed to Magic Castle. I had had enough of that. I found that Rick had returned as bartender there. That was good news. Kellis and Injoo joined me after a while, and we talked until I saw the first subway train pass through the station. I immediately bolted for the subway station.

    I was so exhausted that I woke up as the train was leaving the stop I wanted to get off on. So I got off at the next stop and entered a taxi. I told him in Korean where I wanted to go. He didn’t understand me. So I said, “Anyang Stadium.”

    For some reason, he understood that.

    I was so happy to be back in my bed (after a good shower, of course). I knew that the next Friday was Magic Castle’s big 3rd anniversary bash. Of course, I was going to go, but I told myself I would leave before the subways closed.

    Telling myself is not enough.

    Again, I had to stay out until 5 AM.

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    It just flew the next Friday night. We started the evening in style. Lars, Injoo, and I met Kellis at the gobchang place where Brant and I first tried this wonderful delicacy of beef intestines grilled in soju. Lars raved about how it could be the best meal he ever had. We also had a culinary first that evening. The waitress asked us if we would like “gan.”

    I knew gan meant “liver.” My mother hates liver, so I grew up without that aversion to liver that most children have because I was not exposed to it until I was more adventurous in my tastes. (Thanks, Mom.)

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    The waitress came out with a plate of RAW liver and placed it next to the boiled and chilled tripe. The tripe we had had many times before. It’s rubbery and tasteless. It’s really just a conveyance for sauce. The raw liver, though, was quite the experience. This I considered more dangerous than eating bugs, squirming live squid, and poisonous blowfish. But I ate it. It was velvety and gelatinous, like you’d expect. It had a very intense liver flavor, the good liver flavor, not the bad. It had to be chased by something, though. We had beer and soju on hand with the flaming crackling gobchang, which tasted like onion-ey breakfast bacon.

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    The “Castle” said that on this party, it would try something different. The tables and chairs weren’t cleared to make way for a dance floor. There were no hip hop troupes or magicians. They also mentioned they had spent 2,000,000 million won ($2,000) on door prizes.

    The first sign of dread was when we were greeted by a mime at the door.

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    We saw a lot of the old guard there. Old friends and new friends. Courtney showed up with her friends. The Korean dancer who had helped me win the bottle of Absolut at the last party showed up with a date of hers, a Korean who grew up in L.A. named Danny (cool guy, BTW).

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    As the evening progressed and in hindsight, I would prefer Magic Castle go back to their previous party concept. The door prizes were won through raffles, not through dancing contests and such. They spent big money on a small number of prizes, too.

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    Lars won one of them — a large bottle of Jack Daniels. He shared it with everyone at the bar. I myself didn’t drink much.

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    We spent the wee hours of the morning at a table outside a convenience store, downing instant noodles and warming against a crisp autumn night.

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    During my classes, I had noticed more surreal and entertaining English from my students. Usually, it’s by means of the Engrish on the clothing they wear. One student had a shirt that looked like it was from the Levi’s newspaper (if they ever had one). Its big headline was “Love Begins by the All-African Coffee Machine.”

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    In the very same class, I taught a lesson on English names for types of facial hair. I drew a face on the board and gradually added hair to the face. When I got to the mustache, I asked, “What is this?”

    One student said, “The nosebrow.”

    I had to sit down, I was laughing so hard. The whole class was laughing, including the student who had said it. It was so clever and made so much sense.

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    Pepero day was on Friday, the 11th. I have a thing about it in the Food Journal.

    Injoo’s birthday was also that Thursday. For his birthday, we went to Oido for Jogae Kui. Oido is a little harbor town west of Ansan on the Yellow Sea. Jogae Kui, if anyone has been following, is my FAVORITE FOOD IN THE WORLD!!! It’s shellfish grilled at the table.

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    We were driven there by a girl Injoo was interested in dating. By seeing the way she snuggled with him after dinner, I think the feeling was mutual. That was good because I have never known Injoo with a girlfriend.

    All of this stuff that has been going on, Halloween in particular, has ceased or slowed down. I’m kinda lost on what to do now. I’m so used to doing a million projects. I guess it’s a good thing that the U.S. is in November sweeps. But then again, Fox made the stupid move of axing “Arrested Development” and “Kitchen Confidential” for re-runs of the schlock “Oz” rip-off “Prison Break” drama.