Tag: soups & stews

  • Recipe: Simple Kimchi Jjigae

    Hurricane Irene came and went.  It felt so biarree to think such a strong hurricane would come through New York, I wondered if this is something similar to how Californians feel about snow.  The scene outside of my window looked just like the usual heavy rain from other days, if not for so many damage scenes of New York on TV.  By 10 this morning, heavy rain turned into light drizzle, then no rain at all in my neighborhood.  It’s still quite gray and wet outside with strong wind, but I am grateful for no disruption in electricity and water, and more importantly, relatively little damage to the city.

    Learning that the worst has passed, I started craving for the usual rainy day comfort food for lunch.  I didn’t have much in the refrigerator since I was away for a few days and didn’t have time to stock up on food (which just means I have enough to feed myself for days).  Based on the ingredients I had on hand, I opted for a simple version of kimchi jjigae (찌개; stew).

    Kimchi jjigae is known as a no-fail food, because you rely so much of its flavor on kimchi.  Even the simplest cabbage kimchi is already mixed in the seasoning of perfection, with gochugaru (고추가루; red pepper powder), fish sauce, onion, garlic, ginger, and various other ingredients depending on your family recipe or your favorite brand.  Plus, usually the kimchi used for jjigae is very tart, tart enough that it’s considered past its prime as a side dish.  At this point, kimchi and its seasoning have become strong enough that not much additional seasoning is necessary to turn it into a deep, hearty stew within minutes.  I can only imagine kimchi jjigae making more frequent appearances on my dinner table as the days get colder.

    The laziest form of kimchi jjigae is just boiling kimchi, whatever kimchi juice you can squeeze out from the kimchi jar, and water to make it soupy enough.

    What I made is not too far from it, but an extra step of sautéing kimchi, onion and potato pieces with sesame oil helps bring out the rich flavors in stew without adding pork, which is a common, and usually an important ingredient in kimchi jjigae.

     <Sautéing kimchi, onion and potatoes.  Ready for stock!>

    TIPS!

    Variations – Of course the most popular version of kimchi jjigae is to start with pork, to cook vegetables in flavorful pork fat and have some meaty bites in jjigae as well.

    Another version is chamchi (참치; tuna) kimchi jjigae, in which a canned tuna – with its juice and oil and all – is added and boiled together.  Chamchi and kimchi are a surprising match made in heaven.

    Other popular additions include glass noodles (당면; dang myeon), soaked for 30 minutes, added after stock comes to a boil and cooked thoroughly.  You will need to add more stock or water since glass noodles soak up quite a bit of water.  Flat oval rice cakes used for tteokguk (떡국; rice cake soup) can be added for soft chewy bites.  Spam, in replacement of pork, is also a popular addition.

    Not in the majority, but some also add a small amount of gochujang (고추장; red pepper paste), doenjang (된장; bean paste), even butter.  I found this mouthwatering recipe of kimchi jjigae from Marc of norecipes, which I think you’ll also enjoy.

    Make Ahead – Stews and soups often taste better the next day, and kimchi jjigae also benefits from some  time to rest.  While it can be a very quick recipe, you can also make it a couple of hours ahead except the sesame oil and scallion garnish at the end, which can be added right be

    By the way, here is a shot of my clueless preparation for Hurricane Irene.  I took some pictures of the neighborhood yesterday afternoon, when people were still out and about but stores were already closed, creating this eerie feeling of not knowing exactly what’s coming.  Anyway, I saw some storefronts with taped windows, so I figured it couldn’t hurt for my windows.

     

    I plan to thoroughly enjoy the rest of this uneventful Sunday evening, eating the leftover kimchi jjigae from lunch and catching up on my blog posts.

     

    KOREAN WORDS

    potato  감자  (gam ja)

    tofu      두부  (du bu)

  • Tuna Kimchi Jjigae

    Tuna Kimchi Jjigae

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    This has been my go-to kimchi jjigage recipe for more than 10 years. (Tammy Quackenbush photo)

     

    Northern Californian winters are all about cold dampness — rain, lots of rain. For me, the only purpose for winter is to get the full benefit of a hot bowl of 김치찌개 kimchi jjigae, or kimchi stew. That’s a dish Koreans commonly make to finish off a jar of kimchi that has become too sour and mostly “juice,” the tangy, spicy, flavorful remnant of pickling.

    Kimchi jjigae with 돼지고기 dwaegi gogi (pork), Spam processed ham or 두부 dubu (tofu), are common variations of the dish. Avoiding pork for religious reasons, I was pleased to find 참치김치찌개 chamchi kimchi jjigae, or kimchi stew with tuna, on the menu of a restaurant near Kangwon National University in Chuncheon, a lakeside city in the mountains northeast of Seoul. I first tasted that version in the mid-’90s and have been making it ever since.

    Korean grocery stores sell canned tuna specially made for kimchi jjigae, marinated in 고추장 gochujang (Korean red pepper paste). Because tuna is usually chunk light tuna, which has a smell and flavor, albacore canned tuna is my tuna of choice. (But I may have to reconsider after reading this Epicurious article about mercury in albacore.)

    Since most canned tuna isn’t packed in gochujang, I add gochujang or 고추가루gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes or powder) to the stew. Gochujang will make the stew thicker; gochugaru, thinner.

    A tasty low-fat version of this Korean classic

  • Potato Sujebi, Korean Gnocchi Soup

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    Sujebi is one of the most popular, simple dishes all year round in Korea, especially on rainy days and cold days.  I consider it a cousin of kalguksu (칼국수; knife-cut noodles), but its quick dough of white flour and water is torn with hands and dropped right into boiling broth.  Basic sujebi broth is made with dried anchovies and dried kelp, which are also basic pantry items in Korea.  Add sliced onion, potato and aehobak (애호박; similar to zucchini, but lighter in color and sweeter in taste), and you have a simple bowl of sujebi.  From this basic bowl of sujebi to popular variations of kimchi sujebi and haemul (해물; seafood) sujebi, you can easily create your own sujebi by playing with dough (chewy or soft?  Plumpy thick or wide-noodle thin?), ingredients or broth.

    This potato (감자; gam ja) sujebi comes from my sister whose version has become the standard sujebi for us.  Potato sujebi usually calls for a small amount of grated potato, which extends the chewy-starchy texture, folded into the flour dough.  Sometimes you will even see gamja sujebi that has just lots of potato slices in the soup with your regular flour sujebi.  My sister’s potato sujebi is mostly grated potato with just enough flour to keep it together.  It’s a nice compromise between sujebi and gamja (감자) ong sim i (옹심이), soup with potato balls made only with potato starch which is a regional specialty of Gangwon Province, famous for its potatoes in addition to beautiful beaches and mountains.

    If you consider the usual sujebi on the chewy-elastic side in the whole texture spectrum, this potato sujebi recipe will show you a softer side of sujebi, maybe even remind you of Italian gnocchi.  Garlic chive specks in sujebi is optional, but good for brightening up the dish from its mostly white-beige background.  The natural starch from potato will thicken the soup just about right, and makes it a bit heartier without any meat in the soup.  It’s still simple and easy to make with the same rustic warmth in a bowl.

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    KOREAN WORDS

    potato            감자     (gam ja)

    sweet potato  고구마  (go gu ma)