Category: Ingredients

  • Kimchi and Cheese: How crisis made dairy dominate Korean cuisine

    Kimchi and Cheese: How crisis made dairy dominate Korean cuisine

    The spicy stewed pork ribs emerged from the kitchen. Two attractive TV hosts gawked at them in wonder. They gazed at a dish of decadence. A dish that broke all the rules. A dish that was Korean but smothered in mozzarella cheese. With small tongs one woman grabbed a meaty rib and wrapped it in stringy ribbons of dairy.

    This was the hit Korean TV show “Tasty Road,” which featured new hot restaurants around South Korea. This episode sparked Korea’s current love for cheese, but it goes deeper than that. 

    Koreans love cheese

    The conventional wisdom has been that Asians don’t eat dairy. I remember a short story I read in elementary school in the 1980s. It focused on a Korean-American girl adjusting to two cultures. She considered herself American, but her relatives pressured her to be more Korean. They forbade her to eat pizza because they said, “Koreans don’t eat cheese.”

    That was true in the ‘80s. 

    Foreign influence and crisis developed the love of dairy on the Korean peninsula, starting with Seoul Milk. The largest dairy company in Korea started during its Japanese colonial period. After that time, Japan would figure again in the 1970s with Yakult Korea. This Korean-owned branch of a Japanese dairy sold yogurt drinks to school children. They’re notable for intentionally hiring an all-woman staff of salespeople, known as “Yakult Ajumma.” These iconic ladies in their mustard colored uniforms pushed carts near schools and were the Korean equivalent of the ice cream truck.

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    Budae Jjigae. Credit: Richard Lee on Flickrhttps://www.flickr.com/photos/70109407@N00/

    After the Korean War, the U.S. infected Korean cuisine with surplus from military bases. Hot dogs, Spam, and processed cheese became part of the culinary landscape. Cheese entered the famous Budae Jjigae, the “Army Base Stew” Anthony Bourdain raved about. Cheese Kimbap populated local diners. Sliced processed cheese found its way into instant noodles. Manufacturers marketed special “Einstein” cheese slices for babies.

    In the early 1960s, a Belgian monk created Korea’s first domestic cheese industry in the rural southern county of Imsil. The curds from this village have become a source of pride for South Koreans, enjoying Imsil Cheese on pizzas and grilling it. In fact, some Korean BBQ places offer grilled Imsil cheese as an option alongside shaved brisket. 

    We can also talk about how Pizza Hut introduced pizza to Korea in the mid-1980s with ads of stretchy cheese. Yet none of those examples explain why cheese has become so dominant in Korea. These just paint the backdrop. The prelude.

    It all comes down to crisis.

    When Koreans feel stressed, they want to eat something spicy. It’s a form of cathartic endorphin-laced release. Whenever there has been a national crisis, spicy foods have flourished. 

    The 1997 Asian Financial Crisis fired up Buldak craze, an intensely spicy chicken no sane sober human should consume. It used to be all over Korea, but these days, it’s hard to find. 

    Then came the 2008 financial crisis. It took a while to hit Korea. When it did, the stressed masses turned to spicy foods. 

    A small mom-and-pop shop in the blue collar Sillim-dong neighborhood experienced a surge of customers craving their spicy smoky stewed ribs. The owner of Hahm Ji Bak was thrilled. When he had a breather, he ventured into the dining room and checked in on his customers. They said they loved his ribs. When he offered to get them more, they said that they were having spice overload. They wanted to eat more, but they physically couldn’t.

    The owner experimented by melting a mixture of mozzarella and other cheeses with the ribs and dipping them as a fondue. The dairy countered the spice so that the customers could control their level of heat. Word spread about this place, sparking the new influential show Tasty Road to do an episode there.

    This coincided with the rise of the “Matjip” movement. This was a renaissance of young people rushing to find the best and newest hot restaurants through social media. Hahm Ji Bak got slammed with new customers. 

    Soon came the copycats, not only copying the dish but the name of the restaurant itself. The hipster Hongdae area proliferated with restaurants serving spicy dishes overloaded with cheese. Lines formed outside each of these. The craze spread through Seoul and then throughout all of South Korea. 

    “New Iron Plate Chicken” at Flying Chicken 닭날다 in Hongdae

    Now Korea is the fifth largest importer of American dairy and growing. It consumes so much cheese, it affects U.S. dairy prices. Yes, your milk got more expensive because of Korea.

    When Koreans’ love for cheese in Korean food is influencing global dairy markets, is it too crazy to claim that cheese is now a Korean ingredient?

  • Winner of California culinary contest: ‘Korean food will become more popular’

    Winner of California culinary contest: ‘Korean food will become more popular’

    The first-place winner of the recent Korean Sensation Culinary Contest at The Culinary Institute of America’s Napa Valley campus is neither a traditional North American college student nor a stranger to Korean cuisine.

    A native of Montreal, Stephen Neumann came to culinary school to pursue a second career. He had spent 11 years teaching English as a second language in Busan and Seoul, South Korea.

    Tthe 38-year-old student at The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St. Helena, Calif., is in second semester of his program. His externship is coming up in January.

    Stephen Neumann introduces his Koreanized interpretation of Pate Chinois to the judges. (Tammy Quackenbush photo)
    Stephen Neumann introduces his Koreanized interpretation of Pate Chinois to the judges. (Tammy Quackenbush photo)

    According to Neumann, there were more than 200 submissions from the three of CIA campuses in the States (Hyde Park, N.Y.; San Antonio, Texas and St. Helena). Students were given a list of five Korean ingredients and told to incorporate at least two into the final dish.

    Obviously, the $7,000 scholarship from the Korea Agro Fisheries & Food Trade Corporation (aka aT) will come in handy as Neumann continues his culinary studies at the CIA. ZenKimchi Food Journal talked with him about his inspiration for the fusion dish, background with Korean food and insights on the future of Korean cuisine overseas.

    ZenKimchi Food Journal: What is your food vision?

    NEUMANN: I haven’t to discover that. My passion for this came from working in a kitchen. I have a lot to learn. That is why I’m here. Going into this a little older, I have experienced cuisines from all over Asia, especially Korea.

    I lived in Busan for a couple of years and then to Seoul and Anyang. I taught ESL for 11 years there before coming to the USA to study culinary arts.

    Yangchigi pie
    Stephen Neumann garnishes his yangchigi (Korean for “shepherd”) pie. This dish received quite a bit of love from the judges. aT Center Vice President Yoo Chun Sik said, “It’s a bit playful. The sweet and spicy play well in this dish.” (Tammy Quackenbush photo)

    What inspired your winning dish?

    NEUMANN: It comes from my mother’s French-Canadian background. It was a staple in my home. It’s simple, nice, easy to make. I love the sweet potato–kimchi combination.

    My mother never uses lamb in her pâté chinois. But if I’m doing a shepherd’s pie, I wanted to be as authentic as possible. Lamb is a popular meat in China but not in Korea. The bulgogi sauce worked well with the lamb. I didn’t overload it with bulgogi sauce, but it balanced the edge that comes with lamb.

    What Korean food blogs or Korean chefs did you study to prepare for this contest?

    NEUMANN: I came up with the idea for the dish when the contest began. I submitted this concept and one other, and the shepherd’s pie was accepted. It was just an idea in my mind.

    He told ZenKimchi he didn’t start working on the recipe until after it was accepted for the scholarship contest.

    What are your favorite cuisines, beside Korean?

    NEUMANN: I have been a fan of Mediterranean food. There’s a huge variety on offer: Southern France, Italy, Greece, North Africa. I don’t know enough about Mediterranean food, but I’m open to learn more.

    Asian-wise, I was blown away by Vietnamese food. I love the freshness of the greens and the heat. I fell in love with Korean food immediately. There are very few things I have not tried yet.

    How do you see the future of Korean-American cuisine?

    NEUMANN: In North America and Europe, there is a lot of potential. Eleven years ago before I left North America for Korea, there was little interest in Korean food at all. Still, it’s a vague concept to people, but they love Korean barbecue. North Americans have a singular vision of what Korean food is, but that is going to change. It’s not just going to be Korean barbecue that people will talk about in the future.

    The concept of fermentation has taken North America by storm. Korean food will become more popular. I would like to see more Korean restaurants open. They haven’t caught up with the passion or the demand for it.

    Living in Korea, some of the humble aspects of the food like the kimchi jjigae and the side dishes — I love that simplicity. It didn’t need any flair to heighten it. It is a cuisine that can be elevated and taken in so many directions.

    What kind of beverage do you recommend drinking with Korean food?

    NEUMANN: With my dish, it is pub food. Having a stout, a pint of beer, with shepherd’s pie works well on a lot of levels. The beer is refreshing after the heat of the food itself.

    My wife is in the accelerated wine program at CIA Greystone. We have started drinking some wine with our Korean meals. There are wines that go very well with Korean food too.

  • Limes? Grown in Korea?

    Limes? Grown in Korea?

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    One of the greatest longlasting gripes of expats, chefs, and especially bartenders in Korea is the utter non-presence of limes. Whenever I see limes at a Mexican restaurant or bar, I ask where they got them. They get a sheepish look and say they have a connection with the U.S. Army base. Most of the limes in Korea are smuggled from military bases or bough on the black market.

    We always wondered why limes were so hard to find. Lemons are everywhere. Is Korea–known for being an extremely protectionist economy despite multiple recent FTA treaties–trying to protect some market? Is there really zero demand for limes despite screams from bars and restaurants?

    I was exploring the Korea Food Expo, and I wanted to see the Jeju section. One of the men in charge noticed my interest in a lot of products and took it upon himself to show me around. He pointed to one section.

    “Limes.”

    “Limes?”

    These fruits were green like limes. They were sort of shaped like limes. They handed me a cup of juice. It tasted more like limes than lemons. Actually they tasted closer to the yuzu juice I got from Fukuoka, Japan. I was very excited. I guess I showed my enthusiasm in the extreme because they gave me a free care package of juice and tea.

    In Korean they’re called yeonggyul 영귤 (pronounced YOUNG-gyool). They have started growing these in Jeju, and one of the hotels on the island is already using them. After researching online, I found that they are called sudachi and are related to yuzu and kaffir lime. They mostly are grown in Japan’s Tokushima prefecture and are harvested in the fall. According to Wikipedia, it’s considered to have a “zestier flavor and aroma” compared to lemons and limes.

    So now they’re grown on Jeju, and you can order them at jejugreen.com. They don’t have any fresh fruits on sale now, but a jar of juice is W10,000, and a jar of tea is W15,000.

  • How water can be hard on your culinary masterpieces

    How water can be hard on your culinary masterpieces

    Different sources of water have tortured the tongues of tea lovers for centuries and proved problematic for my late grandmother’s pickles. But health experts increasingly are realizing the subtle substances that distinguish one locale’s water from another — and consequently, a local specialty dish from a the same dish made elsewhere — can be essential to fighting chronic disease.

    My grandmother, of blessed memory, was renowned in our small eastern Montana town for her dill pickles. Every fall, she would collect cucumbers from the garden, pickle them in her own mix of brine, pickling spices and dill. Family and friends appreciated receiving her pickles at Christmas and voraciously consumed them.

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    Whether they're half-sour or full-sour, don't underestimate the importance of the water you use for your brine. (photo courtesy of Michal Zacharzewski at StockXchg, creative commons license)

    We moved 1,300 miles to southern Illinois when I was about 9 years old. Without enough time to plant a garden, she bought cucumbers that first fall and proceeded to pickle. To her taste, the pickles were so bad, she never made them again. But my grandfather and I enjoyed them. We pleaded with her the next several autumns to make her classic dills, but she stuck to her refusal for the remaining 20 years of her life.

    There was a difference in flavor of water between Montana and Illinois.

    “The water here is all wrong,” she told me.

    She couldn’t explain scientifically what made Illinois water “all wrong” for her pickles, so I didn’t understand her frustration.

    The taste of of water can be influenced by emotional attachment to a particular time and place just as much as it can by the physical attributes of water from different types of sources.

    ‘Don’t change the taste of this water’

    In Korean Cuisine: An Illustrated History, author Michael Pettid recounts from Samguk Sagi (History of the Three Kingdoms), the home-water desires of Silla kingdom Gen. Kim Yu-Sin (A.D. 595-673). Kim frequently fought neighboring Paekche kingdom, but when Kim would pass home, he asked a servant to bring him a cup of that water.

    “The taste of our home’s water is the same as in past days,” Kim reportedly said.

    He echoed an ancient Korean new year’s prayer, “Please do not change the taste of this water in the upcoming year.” Water from any source would have quenched Kim’s physical thirst, but a sip of home water slaked his emotional thirst and renewed his strength.

    When each house had a unique source of water, people became highly attached to the water of their home.

    Is water really so important to the final results of a dish that you either have to consider importing water from your far-away homeland or accepting defeat and not make your signature dish at all?

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    Is it crucial that the water comes from where you come from? (photo by ArtMast at StockXchg, creative commons license)

    Good leaves + good water = great tea?

    Water is a crucial ingredient in making a good tea into a masterpiece or a blight.

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    The late Julia Child complained that the tap water in Santa Barbara, Calif., "turns my Chinese tea into mud." I'm sure the tea aficionados Bae Yong-Joon interviewed for his book could relate. (Photo courtesy of Simon Cataudo on StockXchg, creative commons license)

    My late grandmother never would have shipped water more than 1,300 miles to make pickles. Yet Korean media star Bae Yong-Joon on page 185 of his book A Journey in Search of Korea’s Beauty describes a “tea snob” so steeped in the local nuances of water that she longs for “the old days” when some undertook such an impractical proposition.

    “Tea aficionados devote a great deal of time to selecting water, as if it can change the flavor, aroma and vitality of the tea…. Some believe that tea tastes better when it is steeped in water that comes from the same region where the tea is grown…. The importance of finding the right water to match a good quality tea must have been a big part of the daily life of tea aficionados in the old days.”

    What is ‘natural water’?

    Many notice that the taste of water differs, say from that of Seoul to that of San Francisco. This is how the Water Encyclopedia describes the natural composition of the aqueous compound:

    “Although water has the simple formula H2O, it is a complex chemical solution. ‘Pure’ water essentially is nonexistent in the natural environment. Natural water, whether in the atmosphere, on the ground surface, or under the ground, always contains dissolved minerals and gases as a result of its interaction with the atmosphere, minerals in rocks, organic matter, and living organisms.”

    A World Health Organization (WHO) report about nutrients in water says “drinking water supplies may contain … essential minerals naturally or through deliberate or incidental addition.”

    “Water supplies are highly variable in their mineral contents and, while some contribute appreciable amounts of certain minerals either due to natural conditions, intentional additions, or leaching from piping, most provide lesser amounts of nutritionally – essential minerals.”

    Asian water vs. American water

    The report notes key differences between drinking water in Asia and in the U.S.

    Many in Asia consume “soft water,” which has low levels of calcium, magnesium and zinc. U.S. water tends to be “harder,” with more trace minerals.

    Most soft water in the U.S. comes from water softening systems. Which brings me back to my grandmother’s pickle problem — and maybe Julia Child’s trouble with tea. Montana water is mineral-rich, so our home had a water softener, as did many in the area. Softeners often add salt to replace minerals stripped from the water.

    Water filters attached to a kitchen faucet commonly remove heavy metals and chemicals but may not make the water soft enough for your pickles or tea.

    Thea Mann put her pickling proficiency to prose in “The Basics of Pickling.” She recommends soft water to avoid damage to taste and texture.

    Softening up the enemy tastefully

    But Mann provides a method for softening hard water without a softening device.

    “If you like, it is possible to soften your water through 15 minutes of boiling. Use a large stainless steel sauce pan for this. Once you have boiled your water, let it stand for 24 hours, then skim off any surface scum. As sediment will have formed on the bottom, carefully ladle your now-softened water into another container and discard the remainder.”

    Before you throw out a favorite pickle recipe or that expensive green tea from China, consider a solution as simple as good water filter or bit of boiling.

  • Considering Kosher in the Land of the Morning Calm

    Considering Kosher in the Land of the Morning Calm

    South Korea is attracting more Jewish business travelers, diplomats, members of the military and English teachers, but there is a lot of misunderstanding over what is and isn’t kosher food. Some also believe that Muslim dietary standards, called halal in Arabic, are inter-changeable with kosher, but this is not the case.

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    Chabad of Korea opened in Seoul in 2008.

    For example, organizers of the recent G20 economic summit in Seoul were asked to serve kosher meals for 50 participants, but Rabbi Osher Litzman of newly established Chabad of Korea (link) told the coordinators that there’s more to kosher than roasting kosher meat (link). They left the catering to him.

    So did the Prime Minister’s office when dozens of Jews were among 1,000 businesspeople visiting the country during an annual commerce exhibition (link).

    The number of Jews living in South Korea is estimated at around 200, but there is no meeting place outside of the U.S. base at Yongsan in Seoul and few options for finding kosher food. That’s why the Israeli ambassador to Korea in 2007 asked the Chabad organization, part of a sect of Orthodox Judaism, to send an emissary rabbi to Korea. The Chabad center was established in the foreigner-dense Itaewon area of Seoul in April 2008.

    To many non-Jews, the word kosher has passed into common usage to mean “proper,” “legitimate” or “virtuous.” Those are the basic translations of the Hebrew word kashrut, but to Jews it has a more precise meaning. Rules for kashrut encompass more than a list of foragers, fish and fowl on and off the menu.

    Korean cuisine often isn’t thought of as kosher because of pork and certain seafood are in a number of dishes, including many variations of baechu kimchi (배추 김치), the ever-present spicy pickled cabbage side dish.

    The basic laws of kashrut begin in the Bible (Leviticus 11 and Deuteronomy 14) but they don’t end there. The Bible has detailed explanations on how to visually identify which land animals, birds and fish are considered fit for human consumption. People find many legitimate health reasons for eating kosher animals and abstaining from non-kosher animals. However, to Rabbi Litzman, there’s only one reason that matters, “Simply because G-d commanded us to do it.”

    For example, Jewish rules regarding food includes separating between dairy and meat, using dairy products only from kosher animals and not eating most bugs. Jews divide food into three categories: meat, dairy and pareve (a Hebrew word that means “neutral” and includes fruits, vegetables, grains, coffee, tea, eggs and fish).

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    The separation of meat and dairy extends to utensils, cutting boards and dishes. (Photo by Tammy Quackenbush)

    Jewish food law forbids serving meat and dairy products at the same meal. For example, there’s no such thing as a kosher cheeseburger. Even if the meat and the cheese are certified kosher, the moment the cheese sits on top of the beef patty, the burger is no longer considered kosher.

    Litzman also gets milk regularly from a specific cow on a farm outside Seoul to make their own cheese products to ensure that the cheese is made without the use of rennet, which is usually obtained from the stomach of a young sheep, cow or goat.

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    Vegetables are inspected and cleaned thoroughly, not only to get rid of obvious and visible bugs but also to clear the vegetables of any microscopic bugs lurking in the crevices of the vegetables. (Photo by Tammy Quackenbush)

    The separation of meat and dairy extends to utensils, cutting boards and dishes.

    Even vegetables must be thoroughly inspected and washed to make sure they are clear of even the smallest insects before eating. The Chabad Kosher Handbook explains, “A more common problem with vegetables involves possible insect infestation. The prohibition against consuming insects, even very tiny ones — as long as they are visible to the naked eye — is mentioned five times in the Torah and is very strict.” Leafy vegetables, such as lettuce and spinach are washed and inspected leaf by leaf. Other vegetables, such as broccoli, are soaked in water and the water is changed out several times to insure that any small insects are rinsed away from the food.

    Kashrut also includes detailed rules about how an animal is slaughtered.

    “Kosher slaughtering is to be done by an expert, using a special extremely-sharp unserrated knife, cutting the neck of a kosher and healthy animal to over half depth with no delay,” Litzman said. “These laws are to prevent the animal from superfluous pain.” This method of slaughter also encourages the complete drainage of blood from the animal, which is required for the meat to be considered kosher.

    At this time, there are no kosher meat retailers or wholesalers in Korea. However, California-based Teva Meats has expressed interest in selling kosher meat to the Korean market, according to Litzman.

    Certified-kosher meat became increasingly popular among non-Jews in the U.S. due to public concerns about meat safety, mainly “mad cow” degenerative brain disease. Potential for importing any tainted U.S. meat to Korea brought those concerns across the Pacific.

    Animals raised for kosher slaughter are on a strict vegetarian diet. They are never fed animal by-products. Bits of bovine nervous systems in feed was linked to the spread of “mad cow disease” in British beef.

    Creatures destined for kosher slaughter must be in good health. An animal too sick or disabled to walk into the slaughterhouse, often called a “downer,” would be disqualified.

    After slaughter, a kosher animal’s internal organs are closely inspected as another check for a health condition or defect that would have killed the animal within a year. If found, the meat wouldn’t be kosher.

    At this time, most of kosher foods in Korea are imported. Grocers — both foreign- and Korean-owned — that sell imported kosher foods include Costco, E-Mart, Lottemart, Red Door, Hannam Supermarket and Haddon House.

    Some kosher products manufactured in South Korea, which Litzman and some other visiting rabbis travel to inspect periodically.

    “The process is usually simple,” Litzman said. “The Kashrut organization checks the list of products and process of the food, and a trained mashgiach [kosher food inspector] visits the site from time to time to make sure there are no changes.”

    Kosher supervision is more stringent for dining establishments.

    “In case of restaurants, a mashgiach has to be there at every moment meals are prepared,” Litzman said. “(Vegetarian) restaurants are not kosher, unless someone is checking the vegetables for insects.”

    Another part of the mashgiach’s job is to inspect all restaurant food deliveries to make sure the ingredients are kosher and any surprise substitutions are kosher, too.

    Due to the expense involved for a restaurant to obtaining kosher certification, a restaurant  possessing kosher certification would prominently display that certificate.

    If you need more detailed instruction or information about how to apply Jewish kosher rules in your own home, contact Rabbi Litzman at Chabad Korea or read the Kosher Handbook online.

  • Product Review: Annie Chun's Go-chu-jang PLUS Recipe

    Annie Chun's Go-chu-jang

    by Tammy

    Since December 2009, Annie Chun’s — yes, she’s a real person — and CJ Foods stirred up some controversy over the debut of Annie Chun’s gochujang sauce in the U.S. And some in the Korean blogosphere have been gnashing their teeth over this potential corruption of Korean cuisine and they haven’t even tasted it yet.

    Even stores in Northern California, her American home turf, that stock other Annie Chun’s products don’t yet have that sauce. So, I bought a six-bottle case from the brand website, and five friends helped judge the culinary merits of this new sauce. Only one is somewhat a Koreaphile. Most have little to no prior experience with authentic cuisine.

    I gave each of them a bottle to test any way they saw fit, provided they would report with what foods they tried it and how the sauce complemented or clashed with their meals.

    The first to report was my Koreaphile friend, whom I will call “M.” She and her equally knowledgeable husband — whom I’ll call “J” — put the gochujang through the paces, testing it on everything from omelets and pizzas to honeydew melons. They even tried it on a mutual friend of ours — whom I’ll call “S” — and M’s father in law — whom I’ll call FIL. That’s plenty of feedback for a free bottle of sauce.

    Here are a collection of comments:

    • Vegetarian pizza: “too sweet.”
    • Veggie burgers: “very good.”
    • Honeydew melon: A mixed review. J liked it; M thought it was “OK.”
    • Spinach cheese omelets: M liked it; J said it was “too sweet.”
    • S put it on everything in sight, apparently, including potato chips, burger and melon. He said it was “flamin’ hot!”
    • FIL put it on everything too and even used some of the sauce in a recipe. FIL tried it on veggie burgers, omelets and red potatoes.

    FIL’s Roasted Red Potatoes with Gochujang

    INGREDIENTS

    • Red Potatoes
    • Olive Oil
    • Fresh Rosemary
    • Fresh Thyme
    • Salt
    • Gochujang
    1. Rub down the red potatoes with a mix of gochujang, olive oil and herbs.
    2. Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 45 minutes.
    3. Serve hot.

    M’s conclusion:

    Hope that was helpful. We’ll finish the bottle for sure. Not sure if we would specifically go out and buy it. We’ll see.

    The next report came back from my friend “L,” who said:

    I thought the level of spiciness was good. There’s a real sweet initial flavor followed soon after by the heat. I thought it lacked an identity though, in other words, I wouldn’t know how to use it. The flavor isn’t such that I would use it in American dishes we generally make (I’m thinking of meat/barbeque in particular), and doesn’t have the right flavor for Asian dishes we eat. My husband  said it doesn’t taste authentic. He did say it might be something he would use as a dipping sauce, for instance, for lumpia.

    My friend T said:

    YUMMMM! I was worried the spicy would take away from the flavor, but it wasn’t too bad. Not for anyone who doesn’t like spicy though. I give it a thumbs up!

    The most fascinating critique came from the husband of another friend. He said the sauce was “too Korean.”

    At first, I was at a loss on how sauce clearly labeled “Korean sweet and spicy sauce” can be “too Korean.” Then I had a flash: A fundamental flavor of Korean recipes is sesame oil. However, some people have a real aversion to that pungent ingredient, even in small quantities. This blend of gochujang has sesame oil and seeds, and it was enough for him to know that the sauce was “too Korean” for his taste.

    In sum, this gochujang is accurately named: sweet with a bold but not overwhelming spiciness.

  • In Season: "Mountain Strawberries"

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    The past few years I have spent my free mornings walking up the leg of Gwanak Mountain that’s behind my house.  It’s an easy thirty-minute walk that passes by four gorgeous Buddhist temples and ends with satisfying views of my fair city of Anyang.  In June, little berries popped out on the side of the road that looked like raspberries.  They’re tart and seedier than the raspberries and blackberries I used to pick at my grandparents’ place in North Carolina, but it’s always cool to forage your snacks while hiking.

    These little berries are called “san ddalgi” 산딸기, or “mountain strawberries.” The English name is Korean raspberry.

    This is the first year, though, that I’ve seen them for sale on the street.  I bought a small batch from my local tiny mart and tried them.  They’re much milder than the ones on the mountain behind our home.  They have the texture of a raspberry and the flavor of a very weak strawberry with some other aroma that hits the back of the tongue that’s unfamiliar that’s similar to the way that Korean bean sprouts taste, what I say, soapier, than other bean sprouts.

    Nonetheless, I found that they were good blended with frozen bananas in a smoothie.  With the store bought ones, though, clean them thoroughly and check each one for mold.

    They’re on the mountains from now until late July.  If your eyes are peeled, you’ll also catch some tiny berries that actually do look like wild strawberries.  Last year, I broke all the rules of my old Boy Scout manual and tried one.

    Didn’t die.

    The wild strawberry was mild and juicy.  Not sweet.  But again, something interesting to look out for when hiking the many mountains in Korea.

  • Giant Ass Figs

    Giant Ass Figs

    Open markets and street food stalls have been selling some nice plump figs (Muwhagwa 무화과) this month. They ain’t cheap. One stall was selling four for 5,000 won. Our Korean food bloggers have been having fun with them.

    from A Food Journey in Korea

    Here are some Maple Baked Figs wrapped in Bacon with a Balsamic Reduction, created by Therese at A Food Journey in Korea.

    Fatman's Baekseju Poached Figs

    And check out Fatman Seoul’s droolworthy dessert, Figs poached in Baekseju.

  • A Few Words on Acorn Jelly

    A Few Words on Acorn Jelly

    Wan Yan Ling, the Grocery Ninja at Serious Eats, explores the controversial questions about Korean acorn jelly (DotoriMuk 도토리묵) that everyone wants to know.

    And come on, you know those questions have been itchin’ at ya.

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  • Naengi – A Mysterious Herb

    Naengi – A Mysterious Herb

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    I’ve tasted a new flavor this winter. Eun Jeong was making dinner and asked me to go to the store to get some naengi 냉이. I’d never heard of it before nor noticed it at the store.

    “It only comes in winter,” Eun Jeong said, “It’s on the fields after all the vegetables are gone.”

    I went to the store, and there was a sign that said “Naengi” among other signs above masses of different greens. The sign was no help in indicating which one was which. I asked the vegetable lady, and she showed me.

    I truly had never seen these before.

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    They’re ugly little bracken with small leaves and white roots.

    Eun Jeong washed them thoroughly and added them to some Doenjang Jjigae. They totally changed the flavor. How to describe it?

    Imagine walking in the country and smelling the smoke coming out of a fireplace during a crisp winter morning. That’s what Naengi tastes like. It’s smoky and peppery. It tastes like winter.

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    Researching Naengi on the web, in dictionaries, and in cookbooks, I’ve found that it belongs in the capsella family. It’s commonly translated as “Shepherd’s Purse.” Yet the Naengi we’re eating doesn’t quite look like the pictures on the Internet.

    I’m no horticulturalist, but check out these pictures and help me out here. Here is a picture of Shepherd’s Purse from Down Garden Services.

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    The bottom picture looks like the plant we have been eating. Notice between the two that they look similar but are distinctly different. My guess is that it is in the capsella genus but isn’t specifically capsella bursa-pastoris, which is Shepherd’s Purse. Either that or the leaves on the picture at the bottom look more like the picture at the top when it becomes older.

    If this is so then, yes, I have seen this before. It’s all over the world in your average back yard. Take a look outside.