We had bought some large prawns and crab at a local seafood market. At the beach, our friends took our bounty to an outdoor kitchen to cook them up. The methods may seem a bit odd to you, but you wouldn’t believe how great it smelled. I could smell it even when I was editing the video. And the end results would blow your socks off.

For details of this trip, click here.

Saturday, March 30 2013

Excess Baggage

We had two Korean bloggers on this trip who complained the whole time. They were a little stuck on themselves and demanded that every part be the height of luxury. Rather than bring everyone down, I suggested to the guides to let them go home. So we dropped them off at the tourism office, where they took them back on the ferry.

Good riddance.

The Bat Cave

When we got back in the van, we high fived. One of the men said, “The bad guys are gone.”

Immediately the mood improved. Our first stop was a cave that is just starting to be developed for tourism. Most caves you go to as a tourist have manicured steps and railings with colorful flood lights and signs. Not here. This is a real spelunking adventure.

We made a detour to Santa Cruz to grab some crabs and shrimp at the fish market. Then we drove off to the cave.

We ate the burgers from Goodchow that we had packed. I was impressed that they were pretty darn good. Joanne said they took a long time to make because the cook sliced each vegetable and cheese per order. The meat itself had a hefty crust.

We donned our helmets with lights and trekked up the mountain. It was a short climb. We went into the cave. Since it was used for burial a long time ago, there were still some human bones in there. Going further required some good balance and a good bit of squeezing. We reached a point of no return because we would disturb a chamber full of bats. Every now and then one would fly out and scare everyone. It startled me, too. I knew they wouldn’t hurt me, but anything flying straight at your face is going to make you flinch. One brushed up against my hand. I found the bats to be the coolest part.

When we emerged, some folks were waiting for us with some buko. I had asked Dindo before what buko was. I had seen signs advertising buko shakes and buko pies. He said it was young coconut. So while we were spelunking, he got some people to get us some buko. A machete was drawn, and a hole was carved. We each had our own coconut to drink. Then he sliced it in half and fashioned a spoon out of one of the pieces. The meat was soft and gelatinous. Mild and sweet. My new addiction!

I think we all started to relax and enjoy ourselves at this point.

Beach Party

Dindo was worried. He said he got news that the beach was crowded. In Korea, when you say that, it means that you have only inches between yourself and other people. But in the Philippines, people are used to having entire beaches to themselves. The crowd at this beach was no bigger than an average beach in Florida. It was the holidays.

We luckily had a hut all to ourselves, I met the diving instructors, including the most hilarious character, a middle-aged mustachioed man named Freedom. He laughed at my jokes, which instantly makes anyone a friend of mine.

They took the seafood to an open kitchen at the rear of the beach, and I filmed them cooking our catch. Click here to see the video. The scent of charcoal and shallots filled the air. Dindo kept supplying me with bottles of San Miguel. We definitely were starting to enjoy ourselves.

The group devoured the shrimp. And the crab—so surprised at how simple the preparation was because it was full of flavor.

We also had skewers of barbecued pork belly and chicken feet.

The sun set, and the bands started playing. Everyone was having a good time, and they were all cool and friendly. One guy was getting a henna tattoo on his back. We had eaten so well that we decided to skip dinner. We had one more order of business. It was tour guide Harry’s birthday, so we made sure that the MCs on stage did something special for him. They got him to go onstage, and everyone cheered for him.

It was still early in the evening—around eight or nine. But we all fell asleep in the van on the way back.

See also:

Day 1, Getting There

Day 2, Nailing Jesus

The BCD Tofu House was how most Los Angelinos in the late 1990′s and early 2000′s learned about Korean food. For the non-Koreans, the concept of ordering one main dish and have it accompanied by various side dishes was a big treat.

I always try to make it a point to visit BCD Tofu House whenever I’m in Los Angeles or the surrounding regions. They serve some of the best 순두부찌개 Soft Tofu Stew and I know the ingredients are 100% legit. The House brand tofu is made with Non-GMO organic soy bean tofu. The seafood/beef bone broth and the various banchan side dishes are made without MSG. I can trust this place.

As far as the price is concerned, it’s very fair. A bit on the cheap side, especially those Soon Tofu Combos. I would highly recommend the Pork Bulgogi and Soon Tofu combo, but the bibimbap combo ain’t half bad either!

On this occasion, we ended up ordering the 게장 Blue Crab in Spicy Marinade, 돼지불고기 Spicy Pork Bulgogi, and 김치 순두부 Kimchi Soon Tofu. Of course, we got the mixed grain rice, which is optional at no extra cost. Soon after the order is received, the waitress ajummas brings out your rice and banchans. Unlike most restaurants, BCD starts you off with 굴비구이 pan fried young yellow fish. All the banchan served has good flavor, but the yellow fish and spicy pickled clams/squid are just work of art!

The Spicy Pork Bulgogi is not too spicy, not too sweet, and has the right amount of flavor. The meat itself is very tender and the marinade/sauce is not overpowering. Very good!

I’m not a crab fan, but for the crab lovers and/or many other Korean food lovers, this stuff is known as 밥도둑 – aka rice thief. You can ask your Korean friends about the meaning of that term or you may leave us a comment below.

Kimchi Soft Tofu Stew… Quite possibly the second favorite comfort food among Korean people. At least for me, it is…

Be sure to visit BCD Tofu House at any of their numerous locations. From the menu, price, food quality, cleanliness, to the restaurant design, this is a place that I can proudly refer to anyone who is looking for a genuine Korean dining experience. Without any of that ‘luxury’ or some faux high concept Korean food that they are beginning to roll out, the BCD Tofu House is exemplary. Please visit http://www.bcdtofu.com to find the most convenient location to you or your traveling destination.

Bukchang-dong (BCD) Tofu House

• Non-centralized strategy, so no one knew what direction to go
• Throwing money at people based on seniority and connections, whether or not they had any decent strategies on promoting Korean food beyond their own pet projects (remember the Ddeok expo?)
• Promoting foods that foreigners had little interest in, like royal court cuisine
• Hiring celebrities (Wondergirls, Super Junior, Bae Young Joon) who had nothing to do with food and were basically unknown outside of the Korean Wave Empire and giving us the atrocious music video “K-Food Party”
• Letting yangban aristocrats like Cho Tae-kwon steer the campaign
• The government-run Korean restaurant in New York City that didn’t go anywhere
• Planning to support the overseas expansions of Kyochon (fried chicken), Mr. Pizza, and Kraze Burger–deep pocketed franchises that could fund their own expansions
• Oh, and there was that program to create a world-famous celebrity chef in three months that was mostly attended by CEOs and corporate execvutives
• And that questionable survey that put pumpkin porridge and pumpkin ddeok as top 12 foreign favorites

Recently, though, they started going on a more sensible track. The New York Korean restaurant guide was good. And I recently got my hands on an intro to Korean food book by them that almost sounded like it was written by us. (So, of course, it was good.) But then they come out with silly insecure articles like sperm counts on men eating traditional Korean food versus hamburgers (which they stereotype as being traditional “western” food). The jokers at VANK couldn’t be outdone, so they did the Mediterranean Diet vs. Hansik (HT John Francis Power).

In what culinary PR textbook does it work to promote your cuisine by telling your audience that their own cuisine is shite?

Now, the government shouldn’t get all the blame. A lot of the most head-scratching campaigns were the brainchilds of self-declared PR “expert” Seo Kyoung-duk (NYT ads, WSJ ads, Times Square ads, Bibimbap Wanderers), who once said, “The day I close my eyes, I want my people to be as powerful as the Jews and the Chinese.”

Supposedly, he claims that he gets his funds from netizen donations and private sources–at least, now he does. Still there is no indication as to where he got the money to do his first full-page ads in the NYT on his visiting professor’s salary. I smell a rat.

Send your complaints to mulitul@hanmail.net.

So anyway, here’s a quick summary of what’s been going on here and in Korean food this past week.

Our new brochures are in, and they look great!

Finally got to meet our editor Tammy and her husband Jeff in person. Yeah, can you believe it?

We were at a new childhood nostalgia themed tea house in Insa-dong called Insa-dong Ppong Dabang 인사동 뽕 다방, where we were all a tad too big for our tables.

Also had the privilege to hang out with Seattle food writer Jay Friedman. Here he is whacking the crap out of a Schneeball. Will talk about those later.

When opening a clothing store in Hongdae, make sure to have a brand that truly stands out.

No truer words were said.

Wow, a double rip-off! So, you may think I am getting out my Jump-to-Conclusions Mat when guessing that this restaurant is copying its name from Hooni Kim’s Michelin-starred Danji in New York.  But then they also do a logo that’s a bit similar to Chef Kim’s other restaurant, Hanjan.

And get this–they’re an ITALIAN restaurant! I guess they’re going for the Porchetta Copycat Award.

Sighted at my local Paris Baguette. Keep in mind that this is a mass produced cake. Wow! Take that, Cake Wrecks!

Is my mind just dirty thinking what I’m thinking when seeing an ad like this?

News and Blogs

• Funny – Dokdo Times does a satirical piece on Korea establishing an Anti-American food tax
• Korea may be re-opening FTA talks with Mexico
• South Jeolla farmers are really getting into organic free-range farming
• Food makers are toughening their sales rules after the Namyang scandal and subsequent boycott
• Our favorite BBQ’er Linus Kim has been on a BBQ pilgrimage throughout the U.S. and has even joined a competitive BBQ team for Memphis in May
  
• The Makgeolli Mamas & Papas will have a hike up Ansan Mountain Saturday May 23rd.

Recipes

Easy Young Radish Kimchi (Kimchimari)

Crunch Spicy Tofu Bites (A Fat Girl’s Guide to Eating in Korea)

Vegan Doenjang Jjigae (Vegan8Korean)

White Onion Kimchi (TickTalk)

Restaurants

Surprisingly good Capricciosa pizza at Cafe 오감 (Ogam) near Anguk Station, exit 1. Very cheesy and included fresh mushrooms and green olives.

A branch of Kokoro Bento opened near the office. It’s my new favorite lunch stop.

Eat Your Kimchi does Korean BBQ Camping Style at a place called Outdoor Factory

Speaking of outdoors, check out this gorgeous BBQ spot in Paju

Portland’s The Original Pancake House is coming to Seoul (**NEWSFLASH** Just opened)

Bistro Petit’s Franco-Korean food by Chef Sung Park (Brooklyn)–GREAT VIDEO

Credit: Kinchan1 on Flickr (cc)

Everyone’s crazy about Choco Pies in Korea. Even North Koreans are. There is a lot of pride taken in this confectionery. It’s assumed in Korea that the Orion company invented this type of treat. That’s why articles like this irk me.

Food makers frown at Lotte’s copycat behavior

Choco Pie has been a legendary snack for nearly 40 years since Orion created it in 1974.

The two small, round chocolate-covered layers of cake packed with marshmallow filling melted the hearts of people around the world including North Koreans after they spread in the isolated country through the inter-Korean industrial park in Gaeseong.

Just four years after its launch, Orion Choco Pie met a copycat rival at home. Lotte Confectionery introduced the same snack with the same name in 1978.

Orion filed for a patent trial when Lotte registered the identically pronounced trademark using one different Korean vowel for the copycat product in 1979.

[The Korea Herald]

The thing is, the Orion Choco Pie is itself a copycat of the Chattanooga Bakery Moonpie.

Credit: bunchofpants on Flickr (cc)

The MoonPie was invented during the Great Depression, taking advantage of another newly invented product, marshmallow fluff. They sandwiched the marshmallow between two Graham crackers. They later started covering it in chocolate. It became a hit in Chattanooga and spread around the southeast.

Credit: revrev on Flickr (cc)

A tradition started of having a cheap energy-packed lunch of a MoonPie and an RC Cola, another southern product. In Mobile, Alabama, and later New Orleans, MoonPies became coveted throws during Mardi Gras Parades. In fact, in Mobile, they drop a giant lit MoonPie to celebrate the New Year.

The idea that the Choco Pie spontaneously appeared in Korea through the creativity of Orion executives is a big head scratcher. One obvious point is that marshmallows practically don’t exist in Korea. I’d never seen a pack of marshmallows until a couple years ago. They’re considered exotic and foreign. So if marshmallows were non-existent in the 1970s, how did anyone get the idea to make a marshmallow treat at Tongyang Confectionery, which later became Orion Confectionery?

Credit: killrbeez on Flickr (cc)

I’ll step aside and let Wikipedia take the floor.

Orion Confectionery started to sell a similar product known as “Orion Choco Pie” in 1974. In 1973, a member of the Tongyang’s R&D team had visited a hotel in Georgia, US, and was inspired after seeing chocolate-covered sweets in the hotel’s cafe. He returned to South Korea and began experimenting with a chocolate biscuit cake. After experimentation with marshmallows and biscuits, the Choco Pie was created

Georgia is well within MoonPie territory. It’s not hard to connect the dots and see that this R&D guy had himself a MoonPie and went back to Korea to reverse engineer it.

That said, there are some slight differences. The MoonPie is a bit larger, and its Graham cracker outer layer is more firm. It also comes in different flavors, like vanilla and banana (my favorite). They even have double decker sizes. My wife tried a MoonPie while we were visiting America last year. She didn’t like it as much as Choco Pies. A part of me died then, but I recovered.

There’s little wrong with taking ideas and copying something like the MoonPie. But don’t have the arrogance to claim other people are copying you when you were copying the original in the first place.

With a closer look, however, it’s clear that the wine scene in South Korea is small, but thriving. There is also a growing global interest in pairing wine and hansik (Korean food), particularly in the US – where the large Korean/American community has fostered the spread of Korean restaurants. In South Korea itself, there are some wine-pairing pioneers that hope to educate wine connoisseurs about hansik’s potential as a great companion to some of the world’s favourite wines.

With this in mind, I decided to try my hand at pairing a new love – hansik – with an old – red wine. I thought it best to start modestly, following the advice of those who had gone before. Wine experts usually pair hansik with an off-dry Riesling or a Pinot Noir, the latter of which is more versatile than most reds. Picking up a 2009 Agustinos Pinot Noir Reserva Privada, I headed off to a restaurant in Daegu that specialises in Soondubu Jjigae.

As with most Asian food, hansik is usually shared. The table ordered four varieties of the jjigae: kimchi jjigae, mandu jjigae, beegi jjigae (with okara) and kopjang jjigae (with chitterlings). If pairing a wine with four dishes wasn’t difficult enough, Korean meals are always served with side dishes known as banchan. Our table was adorned with ramekins that offered intense flavours, as most banchan are very salty, sweet or spicy, and many are fermented, such as the ubiquitous kimchi.

While awaiting the jjigae, we opened the wine. The Pinot’s nose offered sweet aromas of vanilla and cherry, and so I was surprised when it tasted thin, albeit with a pleasant, slightly astringent, finish. My South African palate was longing for the Hermitage/Cinsault in the Pinotage hybrid, but I reserved final judgment until the end of the meal.

A spoonful of kimchi jjigae blasted over my tongue and erased all memory of the banchan or the wine. Uh-oh, I thought. This experiment may fail. The next sip of wine only confirmed these fears, as the tannins only enhanced the gochujang (a chili-pepper paste omnipresent in hansik). I felt like there was a battle for dominance being waged on my taste buds. Perhaps I had chosen the wrong wine?

Thankfully, the beeji jjigae came to the rescue. The dubu was smoothly mixed with okara, producing a nutty and creamy flavour which toned down the gochujang and yet retained a strong edge. After a spoon of this, I sipped the wine again. This was a far better pairing: the wine wasn’t lost, nor did it eclipse the jjigae. With a bite of japchae (a noodle dish) to cleanse my palate, I was ready to pair it with a new dish. The wine stood up to the mandu jjigae beautifully, and I began to appreciate the Pinot’s versatility. Overall, the wine’s tannins boosted the spice of the jjigaes and added to the warmth of the meal, which makes it a great pairing for winter. I wouldn’t recommend this pairing in the humid Korean summer, but it was a hearty combination in the icy January weather.

One of the best things about Asian food is that there is always a variety of combinations available on any given table. You are never stuck with a single pairing of tastes and textures, and can always cleanse your palate with a bite of mulkimchi (a milder, watery kimchi) or danmuji (pickled radish) and start again. A host of variables awaits the diner, who is free to customise their meal and select flavours that suit the wine. Who says Korean food doesn’t like wine? Next time, I’ll ditch the Pinot and get more adventurous. Hansik can handle it, of that I’m sure.

For more information on Korean food and wine pairing, see:

 WineKorea

Asian Palate

I would like to deeply apologize, to all the ZenKimchi followers, for my long absence. I’ll be more diligent in posting more often.

One of the representative Korean foods is 삼겹살 (samgyupsal), uncured pork belly, or the Korean bacon. As a matter of fact, samgyupsal’s popularity among Koreans would rival kimchi and ramyeon (instant ramen). Being that popular, it’s no suprise that there are more Korean BBQ restaurants than there are 7-Eleven stores in the Los Angeles Koreatown Area. But, one of them truly stands out – the Palsaik Korean BBQ.

The inside decor is very modern and somewhat industrial. This is a very welcome change from most Korean restaurant decor, which sort of looks like a hodge-podge of different themes and/or tries to mimic the old hanok or jumak look.

The name literally means ’8-colors’. The 8 colors are represented by marinating their samgyupsal in 8 kinds of marinades – original (no marinade), garlic, curry, wine, herbs, doenjang, gochujang, and ginseng!

The ‘Palsaik set’ is $49.99 and is a full meal for 4 adults. The set includes the 8 color samgyupsal (8 strips of thick cut Korean bacon), lettuce for wraps, rice, spicy seafood soup, mushrooms, salad, and other vegetables.

Sesame leaves, lettuce, salad, mushrooms (for grilling), and ssamjang (lettuce wrap sauce).

The friendly staff will come to your table and start the grilling process for you. Notice the slanted grill, so that the fat from the samgyupsal drips down into the bean sprouts and kimchi!

The first four strips of the samgyupsal grilling away, while the diners drool in anticipation… Is there anything better than samgyupsal and kimchi?

The beautiful Spicy Seafood Soup to complete your meal. Flavor was wonderful and clean without being too harsh with garlic or peppers. The seafood was very fresh and they didn’t skimp on the serving.

The wall decorations explaining the each flavor of the palsaik marinade and their medicinal effects.

My personal favorite flavors were curry and doenjang, but all 8 flavors found a champion in our table of 6 people.

Overall, my impressions of this restaurant is very favorable. This is one of the few establishments that are redefining the neo-Korean food movement in the US. The Korean restaurants in America were mostly owned and operated by middle aged immigrants who tried to operate their businesses on small budgets, resulting in some weird restaurant decor and/or half-hearted food presentation – think typical Chinese restaurants. Only in the last couple of years, the younger restaurateurs are putting more emphasis on not only the quality of the food (by removing MSG from their recipes and offering organic foods), but these neo-Korean restaurants are properly presenting their dishes in a more modern fashion.

I highly recommend this place for just about any occasion. With about $50, you will have 4 very satisfied people and something to talk about for a few days. And don’t forget to order some makgeoli!

Palsaik Korean BBQ Restaurant
863 South Western Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90005

Friday, March 29 2013

I was the first to wake up by a long shot. Around 6:00. I found some instant coffee and went outside.

Click for full panoramic view

We’re facing the water. I watched the stillness while children played in the background. The accommodations are a bit Spartan, but not too rough. Because of Holy Week, there weren’t many rooms to book. This little hotel, which really feels like a B&B, is rough around the edges, but it feels more like camping.

The rest of the group got up around 8. We had a simple but nice breakfast of rice, egg, sausage, and—dried anchovies with vinegar dipping sauce plus some sugar candies.

Moriones

We drove down to the event grounds, where we ended up last night. The Via Cruces (Way of the Cross) had already started. This is a reenactment of Jesus carrying the cross through the streets. If you grew up in Catholic school, you would know the 13 stations, which are mile markers with stories. Jesus falls. Simon helps him with the cross. Jesus falls. Veronica wipes his face. Jesus falls.

It’s a gruesome story I hadn’t looked at in 30 years. I didn’t realize how dark it was. And I kind of missed the story itself. I didn’t wait for the group to herd down to see the Via Cruces. I went ahead and sensed where the crowd was, following it. Men were dressed up all around as Roman soldiers with evil looking full-head masks. I found a nice space at a street corner. While I was waiting, a man approached me to interview for local TV news. So I obliged. He was a one-man band. I held the microphone, and he recruited a young boy to help hold one of his cameras.

When that was finished, some commotion was coming from up the street. An ambulance went by as part of the—parade. Roman soldiers approached and pushed the crowd back like policemen. It was weird how it felt real for a moment. Then Jesus trodded up the road toward us. He was staggering but still walking briskly. When he got near us, he fell splat on the hot concrete. The soldiers whipped him, pulled him up, and pushed him on his way. That fall was dramatic.

I figured I wouldn’t be able to top that footage, so I headed back to base. When I got there, the group was just heading out. They beckoned me to come, but I already had what I wanted. I think they missed the best part.

The heat was coming down that day. Yet strange enough, it didn’t feel uncomfortable. I wore my sweat like a sweater. Wandered around the booths. It’s not very big. But Dindo, the head officer of the local tourism board, corrected me that this is not a festival. It’s a time for people to do penance. Dindo and I got along well, actually. Funny guy.

I lost track of the time after a while. The group returned. Then I realized there was a lot of commotion going on further off.

We were missing the crucifixion!

Some of us squeezed our way through the crowd and got a somewhat decent angle of Jesus and the two thieves on their crosses. He had already been nailed up. He didn’t really have nails sticking through his hands and wrists, but it looked like it. It looked pretty close to real. Then I was cringing because the soldier Moriones was getting ready to stick Jesus with a spear. He hesitated, waiting for the right moment in the per-recorded presentation. Then he put his spear up against Jesus. Blood spews out of the tip of the sword, but it’s done so well that it looks like Jesus is getting a serious stabbing.

Chowgood Lunch

We had lunch at a local favorite called Chowgood. The spread consisted of bitter gourd (Ginisang Ampalaya), Shrimp Sinigang, Calamari, Seafood Canton, and Sizzling Spicy Sisig.

Shrimp Sinigang

Ginisang Amaplaya (Bitter Gourd)

Calamari

Sizzling Spicy Sisig

Seafood Canton

It was my first time trying bitter gourd, and boy does it live up to its name! But it’s a pleasant, almost numbing bitterness. Sinigang is one of those dishes that people die over, and I saw why. Seafood Canton, as its name suggests, is derived from Chinese cuisine. The Sisig they made especially for our group. It’s a pork dish, and people generally don’t eat meat on Good Friday. The name implies that the pork was marinated in something sour, vinegar to be precise. I started to note that vinegar is a beloved friend in Filipino cuisine.

Paadjao Falls

Click for full panoramic view

Then there was the waterfall. We drove to the end of a winding dirt road and had just a 10-minute leisurely hike to some nice meandering falls. Some young men were diving from the top of the rocks, so you know the bloggers got excited with their cameras.

I took off my shoes and relaxed with some mango. The mangoes here taste creamy and sweet—close to durian in a good forbidden way. On the trail back, Joanne freaked out. She saw a big black snake. And… good thing I didn’t see it, or I would have screamed like a little girl.

Candlelight Procession

When we got back, it was time for the procession through the streets. The other bloggers wanted to return to the hotel for a bit. I stuck around for this. It seemed like the entire town participated in this candlelight procession. I’m sure there were more participants than viewers. It snaked up and down the streets so much that if you wanted to go anywhere, you had to cut across the parade. We could see the end of the procession a few blocks away.

Back at the base, a lady was lying down, suffering from heat stroke. A doctor was taking her blood pressure. Then a woman and a girl who looked like her daughter took over. They both started massaging the woman. I was told that they’re called “healers.” It’s a form of reflexology with maybe a touch of shamanism. The healer art is passed down through families, and they’re chosen to be healers very young.

Our dinner was a buffet at Heritage House, an old place in downtown with creaky well-weathered boards. No pics because buffets rarely make for good photos. I liked the chicken fricassee, which was smothered in a salty brown sauce. I can’t get used to Filipino spaghetti. It’s so sweet! It’s like Spaghettios. When Joanne, our guide, speculated there may be ketchup in it, I couldn’t touch it again. In my rule book, there are only a narrow range of applications for ketchup, and pasta ain’t one of them.

Rain started pounding the metal roof. I shared a table with the guides Joanne and Harry. We just drank our beers and talked as we waited for the rain to subside.

See also:

Day 1: Getting There

Day 3: Buco Beach Party

Gallery

Was giving an all-day private tour yesterday. One of the things we had was Insa-dong’s Ddong Bbang (“Poop Bread”). It’s a lot like IngeoBbang/BungeoBbang (the fish-shaped pastries). It’s a pancake batter cooked in a mold and filled with red beans. Just shaped like a pile of dog poop.

The first time I saw these was at the Samziegil Building in Insa-dong. There was a stand on the ground level. Now there’s a shop on the top floor. If you go into Jonggak Station there’s a kiosk called Dong Bang. They sell poop bread with different fillings.